simplypv

hey guys, noob here on the forum(great forum btw!). been searching and reading a bit, and i still cant seem to find what im looking for.

i recently bought an 85 toyota hilux with an 22r. has header, weber carb, stock gears(4.10), and 32" tires. the thing is soo gutless my rocky(feroza, 1.6l) has more oomph, which is pathetic!

im seriously considering switching to 5.29 gears(expensive!), can anyone comment on that in reference to rpms, gas mileage, and take off power?

i plan on rebuilding the 22r(clean it up real good, do a 2 angle grind valve job, hone the cyl walls, possibily new piston rings). what i want to know is, can i put in an after market cam, such as one from lc engineering, without having to buy other performance parts such as new valve springs, etc etc? what all is required in order to install an aftermarket cam?

lastly, should i retard or advance the distrub?

im not really that interested in switching from carb to efi(trying to keep it cheap and straightforward), but i am looking to see where i can obtain a few extra ponies!

Hayes

you should replace the valve springs when you do a cam. They aren't that much more expensive.
As for the 5.29's I am going to do them with 33s...shouldn't be too bad!

simplypv

are valve springs all that is needed in order to install the cam?

Hayes

I would get springs, retainers, look at lifters...but then again when I rebuild my engine I want it to perform well and not have to worry about it.

simplypv

oooos, i was talking in reference to a cam gear, not the cam shaft itself, or is it spose to be both? im very confused.

Hayes

cam gears are what is used to time the cam properly...more or less anyway...

deserttoy84

get a smaller cam gear so it spins twice as fast so u get double intake and exhuast for more HP... dont forget to keep you powerband fresh when u do that!! LOL.

A mild cam and a weber/holley carb with intake would give u some power. a header helps a little too.

simplypv

so what size cam gear do i use? and where do i order it from??? lc engineering only has 2 cam gears, 1 fixed, and 1 adjustable, both are the same size.

NaeSLaS

yeah, the cam gears have to be one fixed size, because if they were different then the cams would force the valves to open and close too quickly/slowly for the piston. This would cause the timing to gradually degrade until the engine just died.

The cam gears are a fixed size, exactly twice the size of the crankshaft drive gear.

and the adjustable gear is just to set the timing of the cam gears forward or backward, which is essentially useless unless your engine is entirely purpose built.

simplypv

ok, so the cam gear is utterly useless for me then? i wonder what is causing the gutlessness then. a friend of mine has an 84 that is completely stock and it pulls along decently... mine struggles to take off. it already has weber and headers.. i havent a clue... spark plugs look decently new. i wonder, with how much ive heard about people having problems with webers, if this is the issue with mine. how picky is the weber? how hard is it to get it set right? i ask because the previous owner was complaining about the weber and suggested that i switch back to stock.

4Rocker

I love my weber and wouldn't put my stock back on for anything. From my experience with cams, go with a stage 1 or a crawler cam that will give you good low end torque. If your engine has a lot of miles on it, definately replace the rocker arms or they will wear your new camshaft prematurely. Valve springs are cheap insurance but I dont think they are really necessary to replace unless you like running it at higher rpms. In your application, the adjustable cam gear would not be worth the money at all in my opinion. A good header and exhaust will really help with power too. My recommendation in order of importance: 1. Header 2. Weber carb (32/36 in your case) 3. torque Camshaft

simplypv

how do i find out what weber carb i have? and what is the difference between the 32/36 and 32/38?

i looked on lc engineering and didnt see any stage one camshaft.... did see a 20R/22R Street Camshaft Kit (Carburetor) for around $400. this included the the "street performer" camshaft, "street performer valve springs", and aluminum rocker arms. the specs on the camshaft are as listed:

20R/22R - Street Performer Camshaft
2WD or 4WD Carb/EFI (1200-5000 rpm)
Smooth Idle, Torque Improvement
Intake Exhaust
Valve Lash .008 .012
Valve Lift 440? 440?
Advertised Duration 280? 280?
Duration @ .050" 230? 230?
Lobe Center 102? 118?

Intake Opens 13? BTDC
Intake Closes 37? ABDC
Exhaust Opens 45? BBDC
Exhaust Closes 5? ATDC

.... no idea what most of this means in real world terms. does this mean i wouldnt be able to rev above 5k rpms(would like to be able to rev high for the sands)??? also, do i have to change anything else on the head(shave?), or change pistons/rods/ etc etc? im soo lost. lol.

engine has around 50k on rebuild, and has 266k on all parts... so im seriously considering redoing atleast the head.

now as for that weber, how do i mess with it, and what do i mess with?

simplypv

4rocker, i posted a lengthy response back to you, and i got a msg saying that my post needed to be approved by a moderator... any idea why? and when they'll approve of it?

whats the difference between a stage one camshaft and stage 2 camshaft besides the amount of lift? would a stage 2 require bigger valves?

4Rocker

not sure about the post length, ive never run into that before...

The TRD stage 1 cam is a lower rpm (idle to 3500-4000) cam that is designed to make more lower end torque. The stage 2 (what I have) is a midrange (2-5000 rpm) cam that is designed to make more horsepower higher up on the rpm range.

I would recommend the stage 1 on a stock engine or an engine with only a few mods. I have the stage 2 in my truck, but it also has a weber 38, LCE header, 2.25 exhaust, and a port an polished head and manifold to support the extra flow. My setup makes good power, but at the expense of fuel economy.

The stage 2 is awesome for me on the highway where you are always running in that power band, but there are many times I wish i would have went with the stage 1 for the better fuel economy and low end torque when offroading.

Hayes

Where do you get your TRD parts from?

Brandon

4Rocker

I got the cam from my dealer in town. If i remember right the cost was about $120-130 ish.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20...tech_notes.htm

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...RE-Rebuild.htm

I replaced my engine (22RE) with a short block and head I got locally. Used engnbldr.com for cam (crawler), gaskets, head bolts, H2O pump, timing set. Header, new cat, and injector cleaning, too. But stepped down on tires from 33x12.5 to 265(10.5)x70(30 inch on 15's) I'm happy. Springs, torsion bars, and shocks next. Call Engine builder, they a really knowledgible and will help you along and his site will let you customize the package deal you want.

fustercluck

This will be my power mod when I finally get settled down and in my shop...

simplypv

hey 4rocker.... quick questions if you dont mind.

im currently running 32's, and would like to run 5.29's, would the stage 1 camshaft be alright? or should i look into the stage 2 camshaft? while i would like a bit more all around power band, the truck is going to be my dd and weekend warrior(if it breaks, i can ride my motorcycle until i fix it).

i currently have a weber, exhaust with flowmaster(2.5 i think?), and header. lastly, is there any info anywhere on how to adjust/tune a weber? i think thats causing around 80% of my power loss that im experiencing right now, as the previous owner complained about it and suggested that i switch back to stock. also, how do i find out if its a 32/36 or a 32/38(whats the difference?)

4Rocker

I would definately recommend the stage 1. If i could do it over again I would install the stage 1 myself because I imagine the low rpm torque would be helpful offroad.

If you look around the internet there are a few docs out there about tuning the webers but they are not all that helpful in my opinion, especially with the 38/38. I have found that hooking up a vacuum gauge and adjusting the mixture screws at the same time works fairly well. Reading your spark plugs can help alot too to tell if you are running rich or not. I wish there was someone in my area who knew anything about tuning carbs. I have had to do my best to adjust mine by myself and i have eventually dialed in a good setting that delivers good power and acceptable (still not good) fuel economy.

As for telling the differences, the 32/36 is a progressive carb (one butterfly opens with throttle, the other with vacuum, and the 38/38 is a synchronous (both butterflies open at the same time). Probably the easiest way to tell the difference by looking at them would be to compare barrel sizes. The 32/36 has 2 different sized barrels, the 38/38 has both the same diameter. Also, the 38/38 has a gear type mechanism on the back (linkage) side of the carb that connects the main throttle butterfly shafts together. I dont believe the 32/36 has the gears.