bryy

Okay I have done some searching but have found a few exact opposite answers
Basically I am having intermittent starting issues with my truck.

One of two things will happen with the first one only happening 5 percent of the time and just started this week.

1 I will turn the key to start and Ill hear the click my volt gauge will drop and nothing will turn over. I found the only way to get it to go is to turn the key and hold it and within 5 seconds it will turn over and start fine.

2. starting as normal instant when the key is turned.


Possible reasons I have found with the first one being my best quess? but want to know you all's opinion.

1. starter brushes
2. starter itself.
3. relay/solonoid? bad
4. old wiring
5. old ignition switch(please no)
6. Other



Thanks for any and all recommendations or information.

dubbsbetty

iTrader: (2)

Mine started that way, then slowly has worked its way into a hard starting problem. now i turn the key; the COR kicks in, fuel pump primes, then it just kind of ignites all at once while struggling to survive; almost sounds like a sputtering, choking condition. It has been dong this for a few months no. I believe the cold start injector is leaking due to an excessive carbon buildup within the intake plenum next to the injector and it is actually flooding the combustion chamber causing a delay in ignition but not yet conclusive. I have been putting it off in effort for warmer temperature as the cold start would not be active but a leaking injector is constant none the less. anyway, may start there. At first i thought it was starter related as well but mine at the time was only one year old and all the connections were clean and secure. Look into TPS signal at IDL and closed throttle.

bryy

Yeah I just did my tps and all that's good , the problem is the starter actually turning the motor over

Shoua

I had the same problem with my Runner.

The solution that I came down to was to replace the crap-brand "lifetime" starter with a remanufactured Toyota starter. It was about $150, even with my Toyota discount, but I haven't had a starting problem since.

RAD4Runner

dubbsbetty, OP's issue is with his cranking system. TPS, and throttle issues will not prevent starter from cranking.

bryy,

I had similar problem when I first got Ruby Tuesday. I think it was a blessing in disguise . I found signs of in-op of the vehicle- the most recent was what looks like a spider cave made of mud I found under throttle body while looking for my Cold Start Injector switch. Quite possible that the no-start discouraged PO from driving her a lot - hence 170000 miles when I got her last year Yeey!
NOTE: Some car makers refer to starter relay (as Toyota calls it) as starter solenoid switch. However, the actual solenoid is piggybacked on starter motor. Toyota has a less confusing nomenclature.

What clicks? Circuit Opening Relay (COR) behind glove compartment? Starter relay (if present) inside right-hand fender in engine compartment near wiper control? Starter solenoid? IF unclear what those are, Suggest you read links on my sig..

1. starter brushes?
If your starter relay (If present) clicks, and starter solenoid thunks, and solenoid contacts are good, yes maybe your starter brushes, but don't go there, yet. If your starter solenoid does not thunk, look upstream.

2. starter itself.
If your starter solenoid does not thunk, look upstream.

3. relay/solenoid?
If your your system has a starter relay, it should click and your starter solenoid should thunk? If relay is present and clicks but but solenoid does not thunk, see "wiring flaw" in my build thread.

4. old wiring and/or 5. old ignition switch
Possible. Old wiring, dirty relay contacts, pitted ST1 contacts of ignition switch, all contribute to high resistance that will limit power to starter solenoid, and prevent it from actuating OR from actuating all the way to close contacts.

6. Other. Maybe but first check starter relay and solenoid

If your truck does not have starter relay, try adding one the way KidV (T4R) did his truck

Best of luck

bryy

Thanks for all the information.

I did see KIDV's thread on how he did that and I would like to leave that as last resort as I want to keep everything factory although I would not have to cut up the harness or alter it in any way I would PREFER to not go that rout yet....

I am pretty sure I am hearing the thud when the solenoid goes, but I cannot say for certain next time it acts up I will have to have someone turn the key while I get closer to the starter.

I checked this morning and my truck does not have a relay inside the passenger under hood area.

it only acts up every once in a while, which makes it hard to diagnose.

RAD4Runner

Most welcome.
If there's no one else around to turn key for you, use Special Service tool i mentioned in my post

In that case, your ignition switch is carrying all the 12amperes needed to actuate the starter solenoid, and that's part of your problem- too much resistance in wiring like I mentioned above.

I understand the desire to keep everything stock IF, and only IF, stock is electrically sound. However, as I explained stock is not sound- A relay not the flimsy ignition switch should carry 12Amps.

If you don't retrofit so a relay will carry those 12 Amps, it's only a matter of time when "5. old ignition switch(please no)" would apply.

dubbsbetty

iTrader: (2)

yeah I re-read the op again and see how I confused it, haha. Anyways.... excessive resistance to some degree in wiring between switch and solenoid or unfortunately, faulty switch itself. random question bryy: Can you remove the key when the switch is fully engaged? Just curious on this one.

85LB

I'm goin thru the same with "Nessie", my 85 Toyota Pickup Long bed EFI auto 4x4- but the easiest and fastest way is to swap out the starter. Go crap lifetime for $50, throw it on and problems should be solved.
If not THEN proceed with all the crazy diagnostics.
I have been replacing starters for decades. Not just in my driveway or shop but in parking lots, on the side of the road, on the trail... anywhere it fails. Now that they are relatively disposable, its too easy not to just do that first.
In my case, it seems the solenoid might be the only fault but prices for solenoids are more than for than actual starter (at the local crapzone anyway), unlike old American style (easy peasy).

dont wanna gamble? pay the big $$ for OEM Toyota replacement.
They just don't make this stuff like they used to

Also the ignition switch is an easy swap (try Parts Geek or Rock Auto), and not a bad idea for these old buggies

ps "Nessie" as in Loch Ness monster and other mythological creatures - you've heard about em but never see them