sea dawg

I just bought a 1985 ext-cab truck with the 22-RE in it. The truck seems to start from a cold start, then will not re-start warm. I drove it home, let it sit overnight, the next afternoon it started right up, but then would not start again.

I'm working thru the coolant temp sensor and the cold start injector to verify that. Found that the computer sensor for the coolant was ready to fall apart. Will be looking to replace it tomorrow.

Aside from that, we've found some strange stuff on the vacuum system. There are 4 nibs on the intake/throttle body, and one of them has no hose but a plug (the one closest to the front of the truck). I have found no less than three other places where a nib has a plug/stopper on it. The vacuum line coming off the coolant temp is bypassing it's normal route and using a non-standard hose. There seem to be more metal tubes down the side of the valve cover than the truck is using.

The Haynes manual that I have is for like 10 years of trucks, and the diagram they have for the 1985 EFI only has three nibs on the throttle body. Perhaps this engine did not come with the truck?? Not sure how to verify that???

1. I need a good diagram for the 1985 22RE
2. I need a good spec/supplier for replacement vacuum hose (the haynes manual indicates there are different specs used within the engine)
3. I need to verify what year truck this engine is from if it's not from this one.

Somehow, this truck passed a smog test 2 1/2 months ago, I have no idea how. There was no gas cap on it. I'm hoping to get the title squared away tomorrow....

Also, below the o2 sensor on the manifold there is what may be another sensor just past the joint with the exhaust pipe; but there are no wires on it. Need to ID this item.

Can provide pictures if anyone has experience they'd like to share.

Thanks in advance......

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

1985-87Toyota22RE

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You should only have an O2 Sensor in the exhaust manifold and it will be a single wire sensor. The motors are the same from 85-94, it is the different sensors an more emissions as the motors were used in newer trucks. There shouldn't be any other sensors after the exhaust manifold on the 85s.

I just take a sample of the hose I need to the parts store and get a few feet of the size I need. The bigger vacuum lines you will need to get from Toyota as far as I know.

Read from here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52146627 to the next page or so for more information on which sensors that could use a good cleaning and where they go. Also I have a picture of how the EGR Modulator connect to the metal lines you are speaking of that might help.

sea dawg

Thanks. The first post with the drawing looks just like the drawing I've got. It has 3 nibs at the front of the plenum; my motor has 4 nibs there - one has a plastic plug instead of a hose. I will try to get some pictures of my situation posted today to try and make more sense of it.

sea dawg

The first picture shows the vacuum connections on the throttle body (3 with hoses, one with plug on it towards the front)

The other two are focussed on the group of nibs at the middle of the valve cover. Notice the cap on the one to the right (piece of hose with a screw in it)

sea dawg

The first one here shows the connections (or lack of connections) adjacent to the firewall. Two of the nibs have plugs on them (piece of hose with screw in it)

The next two pictures are looking back towards the passenger side of the pickup. On the left you can see the plugs that were referenced in the previous set of pictures.

I'm heading off to see if I can find a water temp sensor and some vacuum hose.......

osv

it appears that you have the later model 22re intake manifold and throttle body, because it's straight instead of pointing down... that is good, I just can't recall if the vacuum diagrams are exactly the same.

whatever it is, I passed ca smog with the same thing that you have... if you are in ca, that smog cert is only good for 3 months.

osv

take a pic of the egr valve area, some of those hoses hook up there.

sea dawg

Here are a few pics from the area to the back of the valve cover by the EGR valve.

(I spent two hours today hitting various parts houses in town trying to find the same ID/OD vacuum line, and finally have a 6 foot length in hand.)

osv

it looks like hoses are hooked up back there, but also much is unplugged... i'd look at the hose diagram for, say, a 1991 22re, and see if that covers it.

in order to pass smog, the hose routing usually has to match the hose diagram sticker under the hood, so that may be the way to hook it up... for the next smog, you may have screw that idle speed controller back into the intake manifold, where the square plug is now.

sea dawg

Here are a couple shots of the EGR valve from the side. I'm making a wild guess that someone essentially disabled the EGR for some reason. Perhaps it was not working right. But these lines have definitely been disabled.

I replaced the coolant sensor, the cold start jet works, but the gasket broke. Considering using liquid gasket temporarily to finish diagnosing the engine. The engine kicked over with someone just holding the injector in place temporarily, so at least I know she's ready to run.

sea dawg

OSV - Not following you on the comment recommending I should "...screw that idle speed controller back into the intake manifold, where the square plug is now."?? The only item that I'm aware of having unscrewed on the side of the intake air manifold is the cold start fuel injector.

osv

it was probably removed before you got the truck... it screws into that hole that's plugged, right next to the cold start injector.

if I recall correctly, my '86 22re doesn't have those hoses coming out behind the egr valve, in your last pic... notice how the small hoses are all plugged into that bank of metal tubes? that bank can be pulled off of the engine, it's held in by a couple of nuts, I believe.

there appear to be at least seven metal tubes in that bank, but your '85 doesn't need all of those tubes(?), and you don't want them left just opened up for the smog guy to question... look at the diagram that terry posted, it only shows four metal tubes, not seven... there are seven tubes there because that's a later model 22re, which is good, because it has the straight intake manifold, which includes a far superior cold start warmup function... as an aside, the later model intake system may not have the same brown vtv listed in terry's pic.

remember, the object is to make this late model hose routing match an '85, not the later model that it is, because of smog laws... my thought is, remove the metal tube back, maybe cut off the top metal tubes that you don't need, or go to the junkyard, and get the right year metal tube bank, along with that missing idle speedup controller, that screws into the intake manifold... you need the latter because it gives you a place to plug in some of those hoses coming off of the intake throttle body.

hook your truck up by the diagram under the hood, that's what the smog guy will go on.

sea dawg

Thanks. You're talking about the bolt that is just to the front from the cold start injector. That would make sense. I had an 87 4Runner years ago, and I remember a devise there with additional vacuum hoses.

There are several problems with the truck at this point (bad Cat, bad Radiator, leaks oil and needs new wheel bearing seals), but the primary thing is that after you start it, and it warms up and idles down, if you shut it off it won't start again???

osv

i'd first check that 4crawler website, the part about shorting the fuel pump relay, to make sure that it's running, the relay is located right above the cpu, passenger side footwell... turning on the ignition does not automatically start the fuel pump, on these vehicles:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

you can check to see if the cat is plugged with a temp gun, gotta run the motor first tho... I've read that you can flush the carbon out of 'em with water????

if it needs wheel bearing seals it'll probably need the bearings and races as well, marlin crawler has genuine koyo stuff.

sea dawg

Ya, I was figuring on going to Marlin for the kit to basically refurbish the front axle and bearings.

How do you use a temp gun to diagnose the cat being plugged???

One odd observation. When I had the key turned on, without the engine running, there were clicking sounds as though some components where activating when not called for.........

I'll take a look at the link you provided. Thanks so much!

osv

what I've read with the cat is that you run the motor up to at least 2k rpms, then while it's running like that, use the laser temp gun to measure the exhaust pipe, both right before and right after the cat... if you have, say, 100 degree difference, it's probably a plugged cat, because the exhaust pressure is backing up against the cat.

keep us posted on what you find with that fuel pump test.

sea dawg

Well, spent a couple hours troubleshooting this thing, and the fact that it would do a cold start but not a warm start. Seemed like the engine was not maintaining fuel pressure to the injectors after it warmed up?? Manually activated the fuel deceleration fuel cut system. We manually activated the valve a couple times, and that seemed to help. I have replaced the fuel filter as another possible contributing factor. I'm now getting a warm start.

Next I need a source for a Cat Converter, and a full tune up (Dist Cap, wires, plugs fluids, VC Gasket, etc). Then rebuild the front axle, and I'll mostly have a truck.........

The vacuum system will also have to be reviewed and the vacuum tubes replaced, but the truck runs at this point. Thanks for all your help!!!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I was away from the computer for awhile and wanted to see where you have gotten to. You reminded me that the 85 does have a different intake on it. It is more straight like osv mentioned. I have only seen that on 85s. I have one as well and it has a device on the bottom side that looks like it is temperature controlled bi metallic and it is broken so I had to use a newer model Throttle Body.

As far a new catalytic converter from what I have read you need to replace it with a factory one. I hear the aftermarkets wont pass California emissions and I have seen aftermarkets compared to the factory cat and there is a big difference.

On your fuel issue, I would suggest cleaning from the tank all the way to the injectors. The fuel systems get dirty after nearly 30 years of use.

The PO did a poor job of disabling the EGR. The EGR is another thing that seems to hang people up on California emissions. They possibly disabled it due to the carbon mess it creates inside the intake system. I suggest hooking it back up to the way that it should be with all of the vacuum lines hooked up to the way that it should be. If you want to keep the intake system clean, after passing your emissions test, you can put a plate in between the EGR tube and the Plenum. This will keep you from getting any check engine lights.

I am neither for or against the EGR, as these motors have ran high miles with it hooked up. I have read how in some ways that it does help cool the motor in a long round about way. I am currently running one of my trucks with the EGR hooked up and one with it disabled for my own little test. I will say that every 22re truck I have worked on, none of them had a fully functioning EGR due to the carbon build up in them.

I will try and post some pictures that might make it a little easier for hooking up your lines to the EGR.

I suggest using a cap, rotor, and plugs from the dealer. They are much more then what a parts store would want and the quality is far better then the parts store. I get my plug wires off of ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/250854901322...84.m1438.l2649 You can search and find them a little cheaper else where on ebay as well. The Denso Plug wires a better quality and fit on to the cap and you wont have them backing off of the cap like the parts store.

sea dawg

The guys who came by to help troubleshoot this thing with me both feel strongly that this is a 3rd gen engine? I've yet to get to uncovering the engine VIN #, but perhaps can do that today.

The factory CAT is a bolt-on style?? This one has been cut and welded, so I'm likely to be looking to a muffler shop to do that job.

Next will be changing out all the fluids in the tranny and diffs, and rebuilding the front axle.