1984 4Runner Buildup - Page 2

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:01 PM

8-6-06

Onword with the world's slowest 84 Toyota 4Runner buildup

Worked on the shortblock, getting the valves in the head.

No timing, head just sitting on block

Head bleeding with assembly lube

Adjustable cam gear vs. regular cam gear

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Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:01 PM

8-19-06

Got the head bolted down and all the timing set installed. I still need to degree the cam and adjust the valves before the valve cover can be bolted down.

Head bolts torqued down

Ready to be degreed

Valve cover shows up almost red in these pictures, it's actually bright chevy orange.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:02 PM

9-9-06

My dad and I degreed the cam in. Stock cam centerlines are at 110 degrees. The cam degreed in at 112 degrees. So, the cam was 2 degrees retarded. Makes sense because the head had been shaved 20 thousands and they say for every 10 thou, it's a degree retarded.

Keeping the engine at a retarded cam timing would produce more high end HP. Since the 22RE isn't a high HP or high rpm engine, that power is wasted. Also, I'm planning on rockcrawling this thing, I need the power lower in the RPM range.

The 22RE's do well at 2-3 degrees of cam advancement. So, I dialed in 5 degrees of cam advance (2 for the head shave and 3 more for some HP).

I wouldn't have been able to do anything with the cam timing if I didn't have the adjustable cam gear.

After we got the cam degreed, we adjusted valve lash. We started putting all the accessories back together. Oip pump, water pump. I primed the oil pump by packed it with white lithium grease. On startup, I need the oil pressure so packing it with grease will get the oil pumping up in the head, cam, and valve train area.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:03 PM

9/17/06

Cleaned up W-56 tranny that I bought 2.5 years ago. The stock tranny from the 84 is behind it, it's a G-52. It's weaker than the W-56. I used Castrol degreaser in the purple bottle, works great!

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:03 PM

10/1/06
My dad and I tried to get the Toyota up and running for the trip to Eagle Rock planned for the 7th. More engine shots

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:04 PM

10/16/06
We didn't make the timeline of the 7th. No biggie, we wanted to make sure we had everything hooked up and done right.

Here's the tach, oil pressure, and water temp gauges hooked up, ready for the engine to be fired up for the first time.

Engine fired up and everything was good, minus the scare of a blown headgasket. It was fine and just needed to be ran for the white smoke to go away.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:04 PM

11/7/06
Finally got around to welding up my Marlin Crawler rock sliders I got for a birthday present over a year ago from my parents.

We are getting it ready for it's Maden Voyage this weekend at Old Chinaman's Gulch!

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:04 PM

11/8/06

Worked on the little things to get it ready. The dash is back together, front swaybar is off, oil pressure and water temp gauges are mounted in the cab, changed oil, put the gas tank skid plate back on it.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:06 PM

12/18/06

I ordered some EGR blockoff plates this weekend. I've had some trouble with the EGR gaskets in the rear of the engine leaking and getting my clean firewall dirty. Plus, the whole idea of EGR is nasty. That's half the reason for me going through the head on this engine so complete. The EGR system completely gunks up the intake and head.

I also need to paint my sliders but I'm working on getting room in the garage.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:07 PM

1/8/07

The goods show up!

Finally made some room in the garage and fit 2 cars in a 3 car garage

Grinded on passenger sliders for several hours with wire wheel on my angle grinder and cordless drill. Ended up buying some rust to primer spraypaint and hitting all the frame and scab plates with it. Then I semi flat blacked over it. It needs several more coats

Leaf springs

Extra tranny, top-shift case for duals, wider 86+ rear axle housing and my All Pro crossmember

Stack of 33" TSL's that I will probably run until I can afford some 36" Iroks

My new work area with messy work bench and storage shelving

Rusty driver side slider

Parts removed (rear bumper, spare tire carrier, mud flaps)

Rear end with stuff removed. I'm working on the rear suspension first.

Driver side slider with some paint on it.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:13 PM

1/14/07

Well, previous owner must have had the rear suspension apart. Everything came apart very easy minsus one bolt (we'll get to that later). The PO didn't use any sort of metal sleeve in the bushings so everything came apart very easy.

What it looked like Saturday morning

Everything loose except one bolt, the front spring hanger bolt near the gas tank

My new toy from Christmas, it's got a new name, PROBLEM SOLVER

I also removed the spare tire carrier.

All made possible by my heater (Christmas present from gpn911 last year)

I'm now working on a rear stretch and removing the LSPV (load sensing postioning valve). It basically gives the rear brakes more braking power if it senses a heavier load in the rear. I'm going to probably take it out and replace it with something like this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I will need to find brake fittings to go from 1/8 NPT to 1.0x10mm. That's going to be the hard part.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:14 PM

1/22/07

Long weekend of work.

Saturday, took the 33's and my wheels to get mounted at wal-mart. It took 1.5 hours to get them done. The guy worked his rear off getting them mounted. Cost - $16

I used air soft pellets for weight. One container of 10,000 is equal to about 40oz's of weight, 10 oz's per tire.

I cut the spring perches off of the rear axle with a cutoff on an angle grinder. Ended up cutting deep into the axle tube on one side.

I wire wheeled, primer, and painted the rear half of the frame. Drained 84 axle of diff fluid.

Sunday
My dad came over and we cut all the spring hangers and shackle hangers off of the frame. Grinded them smooth. He filled the gouges in the axle tube with weld and grinded smooth. Tacked rear shackle hangers on frame. Tried to tack front spring hangers on but there is a good 1/4 inch gap between the frame and the hanger. They don't sit flush. So we are going to add some 1" strap to the hangers to make them easier to weld to the frame. We got one spring put into place and put the jack under it to see the shackle angle. I think it's going to work.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:14 PM

1/22/07

Frame primered and painted

33" TSL mounted on 15x10 2.5 inch backspaced wheel. The tire is kinda narrow for these wheels but not a bad buy for a case of beer two years ago. Should work for Moab.

Rear spring hung, moved back almost three inches from stock.

Shackle hanger mounted almost all the way on the rear of the frame. Stock location of the hanger is the line scratched on frame between holes.

New front spring hanger tacked on. I will need to take it off and modify it a bit to get it to fit the frame squarly.

IFS rear axle with stock spring perches removed. I gouged up the axle housing with the cutoff so my dad welded a bead in the gouge and grinded them smooth.

Fitting rear diff armor.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:15 PM

Saturday 1/27/07

We continued on the rear, wanting to get the rear with the wheels on rolling by the end of the day.

We added a strip of 1 inch strap to the front of the hanger to make sure we would have something solid to weld the hanger to the frame.

Rear springs on

My welding is getting better

We cut the drain plug out from the bottom of the rear housing

Drain patch in place, beveled edges to make sure material is going to get some weld after grinding them smooth

After welding, welds aren't too bad

After grinding smooth and welding inside

Diff armor in place

More weld pictures. Not bad for my second time welding

Sunday 1/28/07
Didn't get goal done of rear rolling Saturday. Oh well. There's always Sunday

Weight on the rear springs. I got some lift out of them over stock

One problem though. One shackle angle is 23 degrees and the other one is 13 degress. Same springs, same hanger locations. Any ideas??

Wheelbase is moved back almost 3 inches from stock.

We were tired of messing with the rear so on to the front. Kinda of a cool reverse pre-runner look

Got the front axle out

Can you believe how flat the stock front springs are??? I've got quite a bit of cleaning on the front axle.

My pile of junk parts is growing

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:16 PM

1/29/07

I figured I had three options.

#1 - Leave it to see if the springs sag into place
#2 - Swap springs from left to right like Terry said
#3 - I have an extra rear spring that got dropped on delivery. I could take the bottom leaf out (only one that was damaged), swap bottom leaves, and then replace that spring.

We were kinda burnt on working on the rear but I have a feeling that we're going to do option 2 or 3 one of these days :?

We didn't tighten the bolts until after the weight of the truck was on the springs.

Pinion angle should be decent. I won't really know until I can get the dual cases installed. I will be shortening my rear shaft my 6.5 inches and adding that to the front shaft plus whatever I need from the lift. I'm planning on running a CV in the rear shaft, taking it from the front DS for now. I'll square shaft the front without the CV and maybe later down the road I'll CV the front.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:17 PM

1/29/07

Just ordered a Marlin Crawler dual transfer case adapter and 4.7 to 1 low range gears

With 5.29's, I'll be at a 223 to 1 crawl ratio

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:18 PM

2/3/07

I'm going to start off with a BIG THANKS to my dad, my brother, Jeff, and Joe for the help this weekend! More than one set of hands is such a big help.

After several hours of tearing stock front axle apart.

Damn PS lines :evil:

Removed radiator and frontend to get to PS box and inside of the frame to weld steering box support

Stock box is gone

Random parts. Soaking all the frontend parts in degreaser

Steering box is ready to be tapped

How I ended Saturday, one big giant mess in the garage.

Sunday 2/4/07

I don't have a drill press but I've got the next best thing, Jeff Press :razz:

Box is tapped and plugged for future hydro assist.

How it sits after today

Front housing needs cleaned and all the brackets cut off.

Front end parts. Longside birfield doesn't turn very well and binds. Maybe that's the loud popping sound I heard while in 4 wheel drive on it's madien trip to Chinaman's??

EROCK cut off the front spring hanger and trimmed the lower portion of the body mount so the new spring hanger can mount nice and flush.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:19 PM

2/6/07

Woooooooooooo Hooooooooooooooooo, ordered 5.29's last night, and am going to order the 30 spline Longfields today. I am waiting on Aussie locker. They are backordered. They said they should be getting a shipment anytime.

Now I can lay the hammer down and the frontend won't go BOOM like it would have if I stayed stock

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:19 PM

2/7/07

BIG BIG THANKS TO MY DAD!! He cut all the swaybar brackets, shock mounts, torque rod mount, and bottom spring perch off of my front axle as well as taking over to the car wash and cleaning it out. It took him 5 hours of work with the cutoff and grinder. Thanks Dad!

That saved me 5 hours of work on Saturday.

Looks like Saturday I'll mount the front spring hanger, grind inner frame of bracket for old PS box, cut shock towers out, clean up extra t-case for duals, clean all the front end parts, hang front springs.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:20 PM

2/9/07

Front axle housing with brackets and mounts cut off.

I went to AutoZone tonight and spent $380 in brakes for the front and rear. Before you say, wow, you spent way too much. I do get $130 of that back with my core returns. So, I've got $250 in brakes. I bought reman front V-6 calipers, new V-6 brake master cylinder (1 inch bore vs. 3/4 bore on stock 84 setup), front brake pads, rear brake shoes, and rear wheel cylinders. This setup should make a huge difference in stopping power from the stock 84 setup. I also needed a bigger master cylinder for the larger drums on the rear with the IFS rearend I'm running.

V-6 and stock 84 calipers

One small piston and one large piston

Two large pistons

V-6 caliper has cooling fins on side of caliper. They are bigger and will work with the new FJ-40 brake rotors I got with the kit.

Stock POS

EROCK, I bought you something :razz: He asked me like 3 times for a breaker bar last weekend and I didn't have one. I do now

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:21 PM

2/10/07

30 Spline Longfields are here!!!! They are almost too pretty to install, work of art.

Stock birfield is 30 spline in the diff and necks down to 27 spline

30 spline Longfield stays 30 spline into the birfield

Joe and I disassembled the top shift transfer case I plan on using for rear case and 4.7 gears

Here's was our workbench for several hours. My knees killed me after working on the case

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:21 PM

Sunday 2/11/07

My dad and I worked on the front axle, cutting out the drain plug, and getting on the armor and truss. We also cut off the stock shock towers and postioned the front crossmember.

Front spring hanger is 3/4 of an inch in front of the stock hanger

Shock towers are gone

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:22 PM

2/12/07

Marlin Crawler dual case adapter, 4.7 to 1 low range gears, and two solid collar spacers were delivered today!!!

Looks like I'll be working on t-cases this weekend!

I took a quick trip home to get the package off of the doorstep and into the garage. I don't like having expensive stuff sitting right out in the open.

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:22 PM

2/12/07

Marlin Crawler stuff is here!

Each one is stamped with a #. I'm dual case # 3580

4.7 to 1 low range gears!

Same with the 4.7 gears. I'm impressed with the gears and the adapter so far.

PORC has shipped my 5.29 gears. Come on Aussie Lockers!!!!!!!!

Volcom · 01-13-2009, 08:23 PM

2/14/07

5.29 gears from PORC are here!

Motive Gear??? Anybody hear of them before?

Made in India. I was hoping for US made gears but what can you expect for $400 (two sets of R&P and two master setup kits).

Marking on the side of the gear

Bearing are Koyo and have Japan stamped on them.

I bought solid spacers instead of using the crush sleeves.

I finally cleaned off my workbench so I can actually stand up and clean parts rather than bending down on the floor.

I've got one hub completely cleaned up.

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