1984 22R Crank pulley slinging oil
12-17-2006, 08:56 PM
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1984 22R Crank pulley slinging oil
I just bought an '84 that is leaking oil around the Crank pulley. It is slinging oil onto the skid plate.
I changed the oil recently upon purchasing with Chevron 10w-30. I accidentally over-revved to 7k. That's when I noticed the oil.
Have I blown a Crank seal? What is involved in changing this?
I changed the oil recently upon purchasing with Chevron 10w-30. I accidentally over-revved to 7k. That's when I noticed the oil.
Have I blown a Crank seal? What is involved in changing this?
12-17-2006, 09:19 PM
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WT*!!! accidently overevved to 7k?? are you sure its just slingin oil and not about to blow up? if you need a new front seal i got a brand new one for a 22r. to change the seal you pull off the belts, then the bottom pulley which you need to take off the skidplate to get to it, then take off the big center bolt which is the only pain in the butt. then you can pry out the old seal if thats what it is. if it isnt then it might be the oil pump seal. Try running regular castrol gtx oil, its the best for these engines.
Last edited by deserttoy84; 12-17-2006 at 09:24 PM.
12-17-2006, 09:32 PM
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WT*!!! accidently overevved to 7k??
12-18-2006, 10:49 AM
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12-19-2006, 12:26 AM
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Thanks guys, I've pressure washed the skid plate and after a 15min drive home not going over 5k I noticed a very light spray on the skid.
Sounds like it's not too bad...what's the torque on the crank nut?
Sounds like it's not too bad...what's the torque on the crank nut?
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12-19-2006, 12:00 PM
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Just put a long breaker bar with a socket on the ground MAKE SURE IT IS TOUCHING THE GROUND ON THE DRIVERS SIDE, pull the coil wire that goes to the distributer. Crank motor for a short burst. Crank bolt will be loose. Remove breaker bar and socket after tightening back up and before starting.
12-19-2006, 01:18 PM
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check the oil pump o ring too. its a little tricky to get back in the groove on the timing cover but if you use a little grease it will help it stick a little better.
as for the pulley , you might need to get a repair sleeve also. its a metal sleeve that goes over the pulleys seal mating surface to keep any grooves worn into the surface from damaging the seal.
as for the pulley , you might need to get a repair sleeve also. its a metal sleeve that goes over the pulleys seal mating surface to keep any grooves worn into the surface from damaging the seal.
12-25-2006, 07:22 PM
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You might need to put a sleeve on the seal side of the crank pulley. If the crank seal is worn or the crank pulley has a groove worn in it, no stop leak will fix it.
Last edited by 4runnerx3; 12-25-2006 at 07:23 PM.
12-25-2006, 09:05 PM
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I replaced that seal many years ago and no leaks since then. I did not have a groove.
Went to Pep Boys and they have a kit with all the parts. In fact I think there were more gaskets then were actually needed. Might have been for the water pump.
Getting the bolt off is the trick. I used the breaker bar method. Do pull the coil wire. Getting the bolt back on and torqued is also a trick. It has been so long. I think I had the radiator out and used an electric impact. It think that bolt gets tighter as the engine runs. I was not able to use a torque wrench because the crank would move even with the manual transmission in gear.
I would not put any crap in the oil to fix a worn seal.
My local wrecker has this engine on a stand. You can see the seal.
Went to Pep Boys and they have a kit with all the parts. In fact I think there were more gaskets then were actually needed. Might have been for the water pump.
Getting the bolt off is the trick. I used the breaker bar method. Do pull the coil wire. Getting the bolt back on and torqued is also a trick. It has been so long. I think I had the radiator out and used an electric impact. It think that bolt gets tighter as the engine runs. I was not able to use a torque wrench because the crank would move even with the manual transmission in gear.
I would not put any crap in the oil to fix a worn seal.
My local wrecker has this engine on a stand. You can see the seal.
Last edited by Tool Pants; 12-25-2006 at 09:09 PM.
09-04-2007, 11:35 PM
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Long term update:
The seal quit leaking about 2 weeks after I posted this, I didn't use any stop-leak or Lucas. I'm guessing after sitting a year the seal may have shrunk/driep up and after several hot/cold cycles it started doing it's job.
Regardless, thanks to all who responded.
The seal quit leaking about 2 weeks after I posted this, I didn't use any stop-leak or Lucas. I'm guessing after sitting a year the seal may have shrunk/driep up and after several hot/cold cycles it started doing it's job.
Regardless, thanks to all who responded.
09-05-2007, 08:24 AM
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And if there's a chemical chunky enough to stop a leak, I don't want it near my valves!!!
09-05-2007, 08:50 AM
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it works alright. If you got a really old motor using a bunch of oil then i would use it.But if your motor is in good shape i would just fix whatever is leaking. only thing ive ever put in my engine was seafoam to clean it out(crankcase and intake)
09-07-2007, 10:24 PM
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I know you already have the problem fixed, but for future readers, the crank seal is easy to replace. The hardest part is messing with the belts. As far as sleeves go, there is really no need for them. If you buy a replacement from Toyota, the gasket is ~2mm shorter, placing the seal on a fresh, non grooved surface. Napa replacement main seals are like this too.
09-11-2007, 11:05 PM
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If you plan on mudding this truck you should replace this seal! Its really not that hard to do. I ran my truck into a three foot deep clay pit in the pine barrens in NJ and it made that very same seal leak. I went from no leaks to lossing all my oil in two days. I went to pepboys and bought that front gasket kit thinking it was the timming chain cover. After six hours in my front driveway i was good to go.
