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Old 04-17-2012, 10:38 AM   #1
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Post Weber 32/36 dgav-33b1

Iv'e been diggin through my yota parts.. I came across this carb, 32/36 dgav-33b1 water choke. And i cant seem to find much info on it, Other then it will go on alot of rigs ie..jeep..sammy..yota. I need more info is it a good carb. Worth stickin on my 80 20r. With a electric choke conversion. Any thoughts??
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:03 AM   #2
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a Weber 32/36 will only set you back $260 direct from Weber plus about $20-40 for a fuel regulator and gauge. I would go with the proven and get the Weber! I cussed a factory carb for a while before I went with a Weber. I've been happy every since.
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My Toyota Family:

  • 1983 Toyota 4WD Pickup (Under Construction, see build threads)
    • Rebuilt 22R, Desmogged, Weber 32/36, TG Rock Ripper stainless header, 2 1/8" exhaust, Restored chassis, Rebuilt axles, OME 2" springs, TG 5.5" shackles, Bilstein 5125 shocks, rear disc brake conversion, Ion Style 171 wheels, Falken Wild Peak Tires, fiberglass bed, new floor pan, every nut and bolt turned, etc, etc, etc...
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #3
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I had a 05 zx636 . So you think this weber is worth rebuilding and using on my 20r then? my truck runs great as it is. After sitting in NorCal for almost 2 years it fired right up.. Just got it back up here in Eugene Or. Hmm
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:26 AM   #4
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I've had a 2003, 2004 and 2006 ZX636. I have a 2008 ZX10 now... I'm a Kawafreak!

Here's what I would do if I were you:
Sell the Weber that you have now as is. You should be able to easily get $150-200 on eBay for it.
Take that money and put it towards a new weber for $260.
I see people rebuilding these things all the time with $50 rebuild kits, but if you can get $150 or so for your old one and save that $50 on a rebuild kit then you're really only paying $60 or so for a brand new carb!

Also, I converted my electric choke to a manual choke and I love the hassle free starts and easy adjustment it offers. I would definitely recommend it!
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My Toyota Family:

  • 1983 Toyota 4WD Pickup (Under Construction, see build threads)
    • Rebuilt 22R, Desmogged, Weber 32/36, TG Rock Ripper stainless header, 2 1/8" exhaust, Restored chassis, Rebuilt axles, OME 2" springs, TG 5.5" shackles, Bilstein 5125 shocks, rear disc brake conversion, Ion Style 171 wheels, Falken Wild Peak Tires, fiberglass bed, new floor pan, every nut and bolt turned, etc, etc, etc...
  • 2005 Toyota Tundra DC
  • 2008 Toyota Camry XLE

22R Desmogging Tutorial
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My 1983 Pickup Build
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:34 AM   #5
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Sounds like a good idea.. Ill post it on craigslist..
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:47 AM   #6
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I'd slap that thing on eBay, you'll get it sold easier and for more $$$.
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My Toyota Family:

  • 1983 Toyota 4WD Pickup (Under Construction, see build threads)
    • Rebuilt 22R, Desmogged, Weber 32/36, TG Rock Ripper stainless header, 2 1/8" exhaust, Restored chassis, Rebuilt axles, OME 2" springs, TG 5.5" shackles, Bilstein 5125 shocks, rear disc brake conversion, Ion Style 171 wheels, Falken Wild Peak Tires, fiberglass bed, new floor pan, every nut and bolt turned, etc, etc, etc...
  • 2005 Toyota Tundra DC
  • 2008 Toyota Camry XLE

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Old 04-18-2012, 12:25 AM   #7
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wait what??? if your mechanically inclined just rebuild the carb for $30-$50 (but a redline kit) if not a decent mechanic can rebuild a Weber in 30 minutes....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Carbur...760#vi-content

(these 2 trucks use the same stock carb)
over the long run on my 76 chevy luv i averaged 2mpg better with the 32/36 then i did with the stock dcp-340 since the 20r is 2.2l vs my chevys 1.8l (4speed) i would suspect that you might not see that big of gain but the dcp/dch 340's that came with both of these engines are a pita to work on when they go down (i currently have a dch-340 on my luv which has larger barrels and venturies)

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Old 04-19-2012, 01:07 PM   #8
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That's what i was thinking, I have owned like 8 Yotas of all gens. And am very mechanically inclined. I ran my own shop in NorCal for 6 years. Yeah its a very simple carb compared. But i want the complete rebuild kit with power valve and all.
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:38 PM   #9
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BTW.. Whats good jetting for 32/36? i think 160 mains are in it now. Do you know a cheap place for the mounting plates? I thought about fabing own out of aluminum but for the work, it might be better to buy?
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:37 PM   #10
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Well, cheap isn't necessarily what you wanna go for on those, since Weber's are very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Either LC Engineering's 2 piece machined aluminum adapter or the taller 1 piece Trans-Dapt adapters are what I would recommend. I have the LCE one, and even though it's 2 pieces, they are very well machined and I have no leaks.

As for jetting the carb, 160's may be a little large, even with your low elevation. I have the stock 140's in mine. 145's were too rich, even at my buddy's place(2,000' lower elevation than where I'm at), and 135's were too lean, even at 8,000' Elevation. I live at around 4,000', to give you an idea of my tuning. The "idle" jets are really the ones that do the most for you because they meter the transition between idle and wide open.
If you care to read the details of tuning the carb, check out my sync link thread:
http://www.yotatech.com/f114/weber-3...talled-225236/
This was tuning a sync linked carb, but the only real difference is that I'm now idling with both barrels, so my idle jets have to match rather than be staggered for a later opening secondary.
This is also only going to be worth it if your engine is in relatively good shape. Weber's are more sensitive to timing issues, vacuum leaks, fuel pressures, etc.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:41 PM   #11
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So for elevation 0-2000ft what would you suggest? i had it backward i have 140 mains and 160 air jets. Idle jets at 50 Sound about right for sea level to 2000?

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Old 04-19-2012, 04:44 PM   #12
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the Weber 32/36 is a great carb. I ran one on my 22r in my 1982 pickup years ago. Yes on the adapters. The cheap redline adapters leak. I believe offenhouser made an intake manifold that allowed for a direct bolton of the 2 barrel weber carbs with out an adapter.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:04 PM   #13
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Go with the LC Engineering adaptor plates, they are your best bet. As for jets, it's going to be trial and error. Every motor and every carb is slightly different. Throw elevation, fuel and air moisture into the mix and your have even more variables. Jets aren't that expensive nor are they hard to swap, do what works for you.
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My Toyota Family:

  • 1983 Toyota 4WD Pickup (Under Construction, see build threads)
    • Rebuilt 22R, Desmogged, Weber 32/36, TG Rock Ripper stainless header, 2 1/8" exhaust, Restored chassis, Rebuilt axles, OME 2" springs, TG 5.5" shackles, Bilstein 5125 shocks, rear disc brake conversion, Ion Style 171 wheels, Falken Wild Peak Tires, fiberglass bed, new floor pan, every nut and bolt turned, etc, etc, etc...
  • 2005 Toyota Tundra DC
  • 2008 Toyota Camry XLE

22R Desmogging Tutorial
My 22R Rebuild
My 1983 Pickup Build
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:11 PM   #14
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id love to have a weber on mine, hinty hint hint
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:16 PM   #15
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That does sound about right in my experience, but the best way to figure your best tune is to try tuning it. Go by the "lean best idle" method to determine what idle jets you need, set your idle, then go on some "seat of the pants dyno" runs up to highway speed, trying different size main jets.
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1990 3.4 5spd 4Runner, 35" BFG KM1's, 4.10's Open/Elocked
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Tow rig in progress:
1969 F250 Camper Special, 31" dry rotted tires from 1992, D60 4.10's, 400 hp 390 10.1:1 CR

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Old 04-24-2012, 09:07 PM   #16
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Tagging onto this post with a couple questions that fall into two catagories:

1) I am having troubles finding how to hook up all the vacuum lines for my 84. Does anyone have pics or a good diagram from an 84? Lots more going on than what the diagram shows from Weber. The EGR vacuum modulator has 3 connections, not one. Is the dist connected to the vacuum switch still or just the carb? Where does the ASV vacuum line go to, or does it get plugged?

2) Will the Weber pass emissions? I say this because it seems like alot of vacuum lines are blocked off and/or re-routed.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #17
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Attached Thumbnails
Weber 32/36 dgav-33b1-manifoldported.jpg   Weber 32/36 dgav-33b1-distadvances.jpg  

Last edited by Drs22r; 04-26-2012 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drs22r View Post
More convo over here. http://www.yotatech.com/f114/weber-32-36-vacuum-problem-250601/#post51908498
Come check out my diagram and provide your advice. Looks like from your pictures I have one connection wrong.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:30 AM   #19
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Jonny boy... You got the most informative posts !!

Iv,e my Weber 32/36 over 15-years Experimented with jetting..so many times I stripped all 6-top hold down screws, now i got nuts on bottom.

My mains are... 140-150
air-corr- 180-190
idle-60-50
Only thing different from what they came with new is my air-corr were
170-180... but i needed more cause i got .40 over...downey headers..MSD IG.
I had a 38 dgas but i sold it, thinking it sucked way-more gas, but from what i hear it doesn,t
Should have KEPT-IT !!! :-)
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:12 AM   #20
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I just bought an 85 that came with a DGV and I CANNOT get it to run properly. I have re-jetted it, played with the idle speed screw, the other one (I forgot the name), messed w/ the choke - all at from the Redline directions. The only thing I haven't changed are the idle jets. It will fire up and run for a second or two and then bog and die. Admittedly, carburetors are my arch-nemesis BUT I need it to run. Can anyone help?
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:12 AM
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