Vibration

rowdy235 · 05-30-2008, 11:38 PM

Okay, this has fooled everybody I've talked too, but it seems it must be simple.

Vibration starts at ~30 miles per hour and continues to ~45 miles per hour. Not very violent but you can notice it easily. Every part of the truck shakes, I feel it everywhere.

Thought it was a miss in the engine cause pressing the clutch caused it to stop. Then I realized pressing the clutch caused the truck to slow down and that stopped it. Speed up and press in the clutch and it vibrates

Thought it was tires. Took them to schwabs and had them rotated. They checked them and told me they were in balance. All inflated to 34 psi cold (per door jamb).

Any ideas? I don't want to pay $$$$ to have a tech look at it.

JCM4x89pu · 05-31-2008, 01:39 AM

could be flat spots on the tires, or loose driveshaft components.. get underneath and see if there is any play in the joints.

CJM · 05-31-2008, 06:35 AM

Flat spots in tires, driveshaft out of balance, bent rim, trans tailshaft or stub shaft, or axle shafts..

zhillz · 05-31-2008, 08:15 AM

If it was flatspots it would be throughout the the drive not just 30mph+ right? Do what CJM said and see if your rim is bent if not my money is on driveshaft.

4Crawler · 05-31-2008, 08:19 AM

For bent rims or rear axle shafts, lift the rear end in the air on jack stands and run the engine at idle and let it turn the wheels (block the front wheels well). Hold a pointer up to the tire face and see if you get any radial run out. If so, move the pointer to the lip of the rim and repeat the test. If run out is found there, check the brake drum/hub and see what it looks like.

Other option is the rear driveshaft, see below for some tips:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...FixingProblems

rowdy235 · 05-31-2008, 09:14 AM

thanks for the ideas guys I'll try them today

but Les Schwab checked the rims and didn't mention they were bent

Al's Chop Shop · 05-31-2008, 10:40 AM

i'd also start with a better inspection of the tires and wheels.... les schwab is pretty hit and miss when it comes to decent tech's. the other thing they do that bothers me is when balancing tires they don't remove old weights, they just keep adding more and more.

if your driveshaft has no play, try replacing your rear shocks. one may be bad.

Al

rowdy235 · 05-31-2008, 12:15 PM

hmmm another thing I didn't think of was I didn't notice this before I aired up the air shocks. Might try lowering the pressure and see where it goes

91diesel · 05-31-2008, 06:43 PM

I'd take off the air shocks, you'll probably get rid of the vibration and get a lot better ride with even cheapo gas charged shocks.

rowdy235 · 06-01-2008, 12:51 PM

no way, I love the air shocks. You can easily adjust them depending on your load.

slacker · 06-01-2008, 04:39 PM

I have seen tires seperate internally .. what I would do is borrow , or use another set of tires and rims .. install them , and run and see if it eliminates the problem ..

.

rowdy235 · 06-01-2008, 10:16 PM

hmm will try

ocdropzone · 06-02-2008, 06:52 AM

didn't you just add a lumber rack on your truck? did you have anything on it? Just a shot in the dark but when I was working construction the racks on our work trucks played havoc with what ever aerodynamics the truck had.

only thing that I can think of since the other ideas have been mentioned...

82greenbeast · 06-03-2008, 08:07 PM

Sounds like you driveshaft, I had the same problem, and i figured it would be alright for a little while until i could get my garage cleared out to fix it, and the front of the drive shaft dropped out while i was driving (30km/h), just make sure your bolts are good, and there is no play in your universals

ocdropzone · 06-14-2008, 12:57 AM

any luck narrowing down the source of your vibration?

stormin94 · 06-14-2008, 01:04 AM

Try taking the mowing deck off.......

But if it's your truck you are referring to.....

I'm replacing my U JOINTS tomorrow(4Runner). And you're symptoms sound identical to mine. But I also have a Squeek at low speeds accelerating up hill, or getting up to speed, then when I hit about 20 miles per hour, the squeek stops, but the vibration starts, but after about 40-45MPH, all is quiet.

rowdy235 · 06-14-2008, 10:40 AM

well tried it with different wheels and tires and got the same results. Airing down the air shocks helped quite a bit, so I'm not as concerned about it now. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Oh, and stormin, the deck has not worked since 2004

jodaddy · 06-15-2008, 09:04 AM

I would go with bent rim or out of balance tire. I have the same problem with my nissan truck after I swapped over the tires from my 4runner. The wheels on the 4runner had worn a weight on the inside of the wheel from rubbing on the caliper when I swapped them over to the nissan the vibration only shows up in 4th gear at the bottom 35mph to about 40 something.

82greenbeast · 06-15-2008, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop

i'd also start with a better inspection of the tires and wheels.... les schwab is pretty hit and miss when it comes to decent tech's. the other thing they do that bothers me is when balancing tires they don't remove old weights, they just keep adding more and more.

if your driveshaft has no play, try replacing your rear shocks. one may bad.

Al

Never thought of that becuase my truck did the same thing, but i put new rancho's on it, hopefully she'll ride smoother since both old ones were *$#@#%. Hav't had a chance to drive it since though

toyota-erik · 07-13-2008, 05:06 AM

Not sure if you ever figured it out but I will give my .02

The first thing, when describing a vibration (especially on the web) its important to mention the frequency of said vibration. You mentioned "vibration" and "shake" in the same sentence. To me, those are 2 different things.
A low frequency vibration would feel like a washing machine out of balance and would indicate something out of wack with tires, rims, rotors ect. A high frequency vibration feels kinda like a D.A. sander does in your hand, usually indicates a driveline problem. I would start with the rear drive shaft assuming the vibration is still there with the t-case in 2WD and the front hubs unlocked. A common problem are the slip-splines on the drive shaft. With the trans in neutral, try to wiggle the the shaft at the splines. If you get movement, its probably your problem. This would also explain why the problem goes away when coasting with the clutch in.
Im assuming you have checked your u-joints, but are they "in phase"? Out of phase u-joints would cause the vibration to come and go at different speeds.

05-30-2008, 11:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	Vibration Okay, this has fooled everybody I've talked too, but it seems it must be simple. Vibration starts at ~30 miles per hour and continues to ~45 miles per hour. Not very violent but you can notice it easily. Every part of the truck shakes, I feel it everywhere. Thought it was a miss in the engine cause pressing the clutch caused it to stop. Then I realized pressing the clutch caused the truck to slow down and that stopped it. Speed up and press in the clutch and it vibrates Thought it was tires. Took them to schwabs and had them rotated. They checked them and told me they were in balance. All inflated to 34 psi cold (per door jamb). Any ideas? I don't want to pay $$$$ to have a tech look at it. __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592

05-31-2008, 01:39 AM	#2 (permalink)
JCM4x89pu Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Posts: 121	could be flat spots on the tires, or loose driveshaft components.. get underneath and see if there is any play in the joints. __________________ 1989 4x4 v6 pickup **HUMMER RESCUE VEHICLE** auto 251,872 miles. driven hard like a toyota truck should be. 31 x 10.5 bfg at's, well taken care of 3vze, rebuilt Hi-Track IFS, delrin/teflon composite control arm bushings, redesigned 25mm BJ spacers, manual hubs, cat replacement & 2.5" exhaust with flowmaster muffler. Marlin bumpers, e-locker mod, various engine mods. LCE headers, too many custom made mods to list.. she goes anywhere i point her.

05-31-2008, 06:35 AM	#3 (permalink)
CJM Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 4,580	Flat spots in tires, driveshaft out of balance, bent rim, trans tailshaft or stub shaft, or axle shafts.. __________________ 96' T100 SR5 4x4, ISR mod, Custom ABS snorkel, KC 57's Hella optilux el cheapo backup lights. Cobra 19III CB, Firestick 4ft antenna, Bilstein shocks. Be polite. Be professional. But, have a plan to kill everyone you meet.

05-31-2008, 08:15 AM	#4 (permalink)
zhillz Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 18	If it was flatspots it would be throughout the the drive not just 30mph+ right? Do what CJM said and see if your rim is bent if not my money is on driveshaft. __________________ MY FIRST TOYOTA BUILD WTB: dash that fits in a 82 lift springs or shackles gears higher then 4.56 rear locker ONLY IF YOU HAVE PAYPAL.

05-31-2008, 08:19 AM	#5 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 6,199	For bent rims or rear axle shafts, lift the rear end in the air on jack stands and run the engine at idle and let it turn the wheels (block the front wheels well). Hold a pointer up to the tire face and see if you get any radial run out. If so, move the pointer to the lip of the rim and repeat the test. If run out is found there, check the brake drum/hub and see what it looks like. Other option is the rear driveshaft, see below for some tips: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...FixingProblems __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

05-31-2008, 09:14 AM	#6 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	thanks for the ideas guys I'll try them today but Les Schwab checked the rims and didn't mention they were bent __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592 Last edited by rowdy235 : 05-31-2008 at 09:15 AM.

05-31-2008, 10:40 AM	#7 (permalink)
Al's Chop Shop Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 369	i'd also start with a better inspection of the tires and wheels.... les schwab is pretty hit and miss when it comes to decent tech's. the other thing they do that bothers me is when balancing tires they don't remove old weights, they just keep adding more and more. if your driveshaft has no play, try replacing your rear shocks. one may be bad. Al __________________ 81 Toyota pickup - Hers 22r, 5spd, 4x4, longbed on 33's... awaiting custom rears up front w/ downey shackles, chev 63's out back double shackled and 36's... 79 Jeep Cherokee Widetrack "Kronk" - The Build TBI350, SM465, NP205, Hydraulic clutch, Hydroboost, Custom aluminum radiator, Flowtech headers, SOA D44HD w/ Hi-steer, D60, 36" TSL/SX's, LED tail conversion... 91 Chevy K1500 - The Hauler TBI350, built 700r4, NP241, awaiting 4" lift... 92 FJ80 Land Cruiser - Fate undecided

05-31-2008, 12:15 PM	#8 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	hmmm another thing I didn't think of was I didn't notice this before I aired up the air shocks. Might try lowering the pressure and see where it goes __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592

05-31-2008, 06:43 PM	#9 (permalink)
91diesel Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 90	I'd take off the air shocks, you'll probably get rid of the vibration and get a lot better ride with even cheapo gas charged shocks.

06-01-2008, 12:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	no way, I love the air shocks. You can easily adjust them depending on your load. __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592

06-01-2008, 04:39 PM	#11 (permalink)
slacker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 1,265	I have seen tires seperate internally .. what I would do is borrow , or use another set of tires and rims .. install them , and run and see if it eliminates the problem .. . __________________ 86 4x4 , fiberglass bed , 1/2 doors , hood ... more to come . 84 2WD "hotrod" Intercooled 7MGTE 83 Trekker SR5 MY PAGE 2WD fourm I frequent NEW Trekker forum

06-01-2008, 10:16 PM	#12 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	hmm will try __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592

06-02-2008, 06:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX Posts: 2,745	didn't you just add a lumber rack on your truck? did you have anything on it? Just a shot in the dark but when I was working construction the racks on our work trucks played havoc with what ever aerodynamics the truck had. only thing that I can think of since the other ideas have been mentioned... __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker SR5 B4Runner Build '89 Tercel Project POS Gas Saver '05 Camry 'Wife's curb destroyer' '03 Tahoe Family Truckster/Tow Rig TREKKER Forum LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS All Toyota Website Search Engine Wheel Responsibly, Don't screw it up for others...

06-03-2008, 08:07 PM	#14 (permalink)
82greenbeast Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 94	Sounds like you driveshaft, I had the same problem, and i figured it would be alright for a little while until i could get my garage cleared out to fix it, and the front of the drive shaft dropped out while i was driving (30km/h), just make sure your bolts are good, and there is no play in your universals

06-14-2008, 12:57 AM	#15 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX Posts: 2,745	any luck narrowing down the source of your vibration? __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker SR5 B4Runner Build '89 Tercel Project POS Gas Saver '05 Camry 'Wife's curb destroyer' '03 Tahoe Family Truckster/Tow Rig TREKKER Forum LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS All Toyota Website Search Engine Wheel Responsibly, Don't screw it up for others...

06-14-2008, 01:04 AM	#16 (permalink)
stormin94 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Lake County, CA/Sacramento Posts: 3,274	Try taking the mowing deck off....... But if it's your truck you are referring to..... I'm replacing my U JOINTS tomorrow(4Runner). And you're symptoms sound identical to mine. But I also have a Squeek at low speeds accelerating up hill, or getting up to speed, then when I hit about 20 miles per hour, the squeek stops, but the vibration starts, but after about 40-45MPH, all is quiet. __________________ 1994 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4X4 208,000 miles and counting 3.0 V6, 5 speed 14/19 MPG city/hwy(before 33's) Current Mods Headers, 2.5" Flowmaster custom exhaust, K&N FIPK KC Daylighter 100 Watt lights Ranchos x4, 2" Lift Downey coils 33-12.50 M/T's, 1" t-bar lift, 1" body lift Tow pkg w/ lighthookups Silverstar Headlights, Pioneer Deck w/XM Brushguard 250Watt JLAudio 8" W3 Sub Future Mods 12V Aux outlet-400/800peak inverter roof basket/lights Air locker 4.88 gears H.O. Alternator

06-14-2008, 10:40 AM	#17 (permalink)
rowdy235 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sweet Home, OR Posts: 1,368	well tried it with different wheels and tires and got the same results. Airing down the air shocks helped quite a bit, so I'm not as concerned about it now. Thanks for all the suggestions. Oh, and stormin, the deck has not worked since 2004 __________________ Daily Driver: 1982 Toyota Pickup Base 2WD 22R, TRD Cam,5-sp Manual, Toyota Truck Nation High Miler- 300k+ MPG: 25/32 Off-roader: 1990 Honda H3011SA Riding Lawnmower, 11hp OHV engine, Carlisle SNOW-HOG Tires MPG: 1 Day of "Wheeling" per gallon Come to the 2nd Annual Oregon Yotatech Meetup! June 26-29, 2009: Browns Camp OHV Park http://www.yotatech.com/f5/oregon-yo.../#post50902592

06-15-2008, 09:04 AM	#18 (permalink)
jodaddy Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 22	I would go with bent rim or out of balance tire. I have the same problem with my nissan truck after I swapped over the tires from my 4runner. The wheels on the 4runner had worn a weight on the inside of the wheel from rubbing on the caliper when I swapped them over to the nissan the vibration only shows up in 4th gear at the bottom 35mph to about 40 something.

07-13-2008, 05:06 AM	#20 (permalink)
toyota-erik Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: M/V Midland & Biwabik MN Posts: 165	Not sure if you ever figured it out but I will give my .02 The first thing, when describing a vibration (especially on the web) its important to mention the frequency of said vibration. You mentioned "vibration" and "shake" in the same sentence. To me, those are 2 different things. A low frequency vibration would feel like a washing machine out of balance and would indicate something out of wack with tires, rims, rotors ect. A high frequency vibration feels kinda like a D.A. sander does in your hand, usually indicates a driveline problem. I would start with the rear drive shaft assuming the vibration is still there with the t-case in 2WD and the front hubs unlocked. A common problem are the slip-splines on the drive shaft. With the trans in neutral, try to wiggle the the shaft at the splines. If you get movement, its probably your problem. This would also explain why the problem goes away when coasting with the clutch in. Im assuming you have checked your u-joints, but are they "in phase"? Out of phase u-joints would cause the vibration to come and go at different speeds. __________________ 81 Toyota P/U, 22R with GotPropane kit, wheelbase stretched 5", bobbed box, narrowed tube frame from cab back, full exo, tube doors, Warn 9000i, 36" IROKs,TR bead locks, 4 link front, 3 link rear, Fox 2.0 16" all around. Rear axle is shaved, trussed, V6 3rd, CroMo axles, 4.88, full spool, and disc brakes. Front axle is trussed, HP 3rd, 4.88, 30spline Longfields, and a lunchbox locker. Full hydro Howe desert series race pump(reworked by PSC), CroMo steering arms, 4.7:1 t-case Last edited by toyota-erik : 07-13-2008 at 05:12 AM. Reason: ya