delmert

So to lay this out, I've got a motor out of an 82, has 71k miles on it. ( yes you read right, found it with 40k still under warranty)
okay so over the fall I decided to go with a LCE supercharger w/ Holley 500 ( let's say this is not bolt on, instructions suck and they couldn't help over the phone at all)

so I winged it. Slapped it on and hooked up gas to the carb and oil to the charger
tore all my vaccines lines out (hated those)

had to move. So put somewhere around 600 miles on it, which was tuning it then hallling all my stuff, great power it's never liked hills and stalls randomly sometimes. Yay!! Never figured out if that was fuel problem or other

okay so the other day i smell burning oil at about 55mph.... smoke piling out from behind me, turn it off roll... it won't restart and there's oil everywhere. Looks like it blow out the valve cover seals and vents.

Cold Compression test.
Cylinder 1 44psi
cylinder 2 73psi
cylinder 3 51psi
cylinder 4 90psi

so that's not good, But I've also recently learned that my pcv valve needs a vacc hooked to it... since I didn't want to jump off my brake vaccum I just vented it to atmosphere, saw a 22r that did that.

is not having a vaccum on the pcv what caused this?
would yall rebuild this motor?

i have a 22re out of an 87 that ran okay-ish

im considering dropping a 350 in this thing so I can actually find someone here in the Midwest that will help me with issues
all I have is yall, which has got me through years of building this truck and a couple others, but there's very little info on supercharging these, and LCE wasn't a bit of help

81 4X4

Probably blew the head gasket, plus other things. The head needs to come off for sure. Then you need to check the head for cracks, check the block for damage, and look at the pistons. Do you know how mch boost it was making? How many miles with the supercharger?

delmert

yeah, I'm kind of headed towards that thinking. With such low miles I'ma start looking for rebuild ls price.
Its the low boost supercharger, they claim around 5psi

Actually just found my video I'll have to check back on the miles now, but I haven't rolled over. So less the 1k for sure maybe 300
spent sometime trying to figure out a ghetto leak down test with an air compressor at 20psi at tdc on cylinder 4 ( I thought I was at 1) all the air pressure was coming out the oil cap, if I had it right the next time tdc cylinder 1 I got a lot of air out of cylinder 3.
The radiater never bubbled while I was messing around.

ChinkTruck

When super chargers fail they almost always "suck a valve" the 22r is an interference motor so when this happened it likely sucked all the valves, (put a valve through the cylinder) did you hear a loud "bang" when it went tits up?

delmert

Thx for the reply, didn't hear anything. But 35s an no sound dampening on the floorboards with the stereo blaring. Might outdone that
i was lower on the rpm s about 55 in 5th and it was a little sluggish. Then I switched to 4th it had a lot of drag between the shift. ( truck slowed dpwn a lot while the clutch was on. )
wasn't overheating but the. I noticed the burning oil smell and then smoke behind me.

I hope I didn't blow this piece of . I already won't do business with Lce after there absolute lack of an knowledge about toyotas.

ChinkTruck

Is the motor seized? If so then its likely a valve through the cylinder. If not it could be the other issues you noted. Im no expert on super chargers by any means, just know a little from working with a friend who builds hot rods. I know if you didn't build the motor for high compression then your asking for this to happen. H beam piston rods and high compression pistons at a minimum, large valves and a race cam should be done as well, timing is key with a super, they are timing based. They dont just compress air all willey nilley like a turbo does, this is why a turbo lags power at certain RPMs then explodes in the power band. So that being said the cam needs to be degree wheel tuned and i highly doubt the stock distributor is up to the task, a full electronic ignition set up should be installed. Thats too bad to hear LCE couldn't help you, ive always found them extremely knowledgeable about their products, sounds like maybe they're selling something they know nothing about.

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

You need to email Tony at LCE. The guys that do their phone stuff are just sales reps that might drive Toyota's, give them the benefit of the doubt here. You can't have your most knowledgeable people stuck on the phone telling kids they can't run 35s with 4:10s with a 22R. You know what I mean? I'm willing to bet if you email them, they might be able to help you out a lot more than you think. They're a great company and have their reputation for a reason. I hated reading about your engine, so I hope you get this resolved! Just my .02 duder (-:

delmert

Yeah, talked to Tony the manager or general manager. Also talked to the guys at camdon, who were told to not deal with me cause lce would handle it, they never told me anything useful... emailed and called several times... Tony tried to help me out. But he didn't know anything about the actual setup, cool guy... but actual instructions is what I wanted.

delmert

motor turns over with a wrench and I can feel the compression strokes. I'm no expert on this but it's blowing a lot of pressure through the top of the motor.... maybe I won't have to rebuild the block.

ChinkTruck

thats definitely a good sign, so not a catastrophic failure like i suspected. Keep us posted on what you find and what becomes of the supercharged 22r

delmert

yeah, I'll try to take pictures, it seems my best bet is pulling to motor and trying my hand at a rebuild. I've got a 85 22re 280k no title and a 87 189k which is just on a frame. So far everything I see is that my 82 22r is the best to put boost into. But if anybody thinks other parts would be good out of those I'm open for opinions

delmert

The back left bolt had oil come out. and the other two on the left had some rust and they were tight.
Timing chain is tight... gotta figure out how to unhook it. I like the double, don't forget the bolt under the timing gear
So I cracked the head bolts before I drained everything. Hopefully it didn't mix to much. But I figured the heater core would be the lest ranted from that... looks like I was getting a little oil coolant mix

delmert

Sorry for the misspelling. iPhone jumps everywhere and I can't see what I'm typing.
Anybody else have that?
Got some more info loaded up on lunch break, no internet at the house is killing me

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

What did you do with the timing when running boost? Timing retard with boost is critical, how much boost were you running and how much total timing on boost? If timing was kept stock maybe you had detonation and damaged the rings which cause excessive blow-by and oil everywhere. Did you have a way to monitor the air fuel ratio when on boost? Around 12.5:1 is a good ballpark at WOT. Once the head is removed check the cylinder walls for scoring, check for metalic flakes in the oil, check for detonation signs on top of the pistons. Can you post a pic of the spark plugs? Cut one up and look at it with a magnifying glass to see if there are specs of aluminum on the porcelain.

delmert

Boost is estimated at 5 psi, bought a air/fuel gauge but had to get the truck up and going cause I moved, so that never made it on. Uh, so I adjusted the distributor till it sounded good and ran good. Don't know exactly where I ended up.
I was never able to find any information on that, nor the amount of fuel I was shoving in it. I was guessing the stock fuel pump ran about 7psi of fuel and the Holley 500 said 5-9psi.
Oil is somewhat reflective... not sure if some aluminum would be why.

Im not quite following you on the spark plug, cut a spark plug? Or just look at them up close
I'll get more pics and hopefully the head off tonight.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Here this may help you diagnose http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

Having the proper air fuel ratio and timing is critical to forced induction reliability, as a general rule as boost ramps up timing needs to go gradually lower.

delmert

Here's two of my plugs. Not sure what cylinders thery were I
Cylinder 1 is very smooth
Think this is 4. Phones retarded. It's not got the growers like 3, bit it's not smooth like 1 n 2
Cylinder two is smooth
Cylinder 3 will catch on a findernail



My heads, and intake. Thinking I might pull the valves.
The oil that was in the truck.

delmert

thats a lot there, I'll cut one up and start looking at it.... I've never even heard this much detail into spark plugs... so much to learn... thx man.

on the timing part I was looking into different distributors, Davis seemed pretty good, but I didn't know if that was even something I needed
ms ignition systems are suppose to be good, but they didn't seem real Toyota oriantated

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm no expert, but the color of the piston tops, valves and head look very good, no deposit or grayish colours. The scoring on the number 3 bore not so much. Can't really tell how bad from the pictures. As for the oil you can't really tell that way just from looking at it, more like look for metalic bits at the bottom of the pan, you can also cut up your oil filter.

delmert

thing is I'm not seeing nothing that's so bad it should be causing so much loss in compression. Maybe I'll find something in the valves.
Should I even mess with the short block... might have someone come look at it. Idk.

Not sure where the filter is, see if I can't add that to my cut open list.