ocdropzone's notebook of good ideas-mods - Page 3

ocdropzone · 06-17-2009, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lgrt

The hard core guy know all this but have you ever wonder how beadlocker wheels work or how you mount tires on them? Here is a how to video and write-up showing you how we did it... no fancy tire shop... just a little brute force.

mounting tires on beadlockers

soaping the rim and tire aids the install too

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ocdropzone · 06-21-2009, 01:58 AM

Found this one on a Local 4Wheeler board linked from the Marlin Board:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...8356#msg588356

compliments of dropthattaco:
Ok, so I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 81 4x4. The Weber works great on the 22r, and picked up a bit of pep and the driveability is loads better than stock. Even gets 18 MPG much to my surprise. Unfortunately, the Weber really does not like going up hills. Deciding this was unacceptable, I took it upon myself to remedy this situation. The problem is the location of the bowl vent. When the truck tilts back, the fuel spills into the air horn, making the truck stall. To fix this there are three things you need to do. First, make sure the float level is AT MOST spec height, preferrably 1-2mm lower. Second, install a fuel pressure regulator. I use this one:

and it's set to 2psi. NO MORE.
Third, you need to relocate the fuel bowl vent. This is the hardest part, and the one I'm going to focus on.
To relocate the bowl vent:
Remove the top of the carb.

You will notice a couple of rectangles that pass through the top. One of these is the the bowl vent. It is the one closest to the fuel inlet, furthest from the choke tower. You will need to plug it. I used JB Weld. Here:

And here it is after the JB weld:

Now you will need to make a vent to replace the one you plugged. Luckily there is a blanked port that isn't used on these carbs. Here's what you do.

Drill some holes in the port to allow the vapors out. You will be able to see your drill bit through the hole in the end. Then you will need to vent the vapor somewhere. The fitting in the end is 3/8" inside diameter, so I bought some copper tube from ACE hardware and hammered it in.

and from the top:

Then I routed it to the stock carb charcoal canister (under the battery) using 3/8" fuel hose.

And here's the finished product:

Runs up hills like a champ now. Good luck!!!

ocdropzone · 06-21-2009, 06:29 AM

IFS Frame Dimensions Link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=599542

ocdropzone · 07-10-2009, 09:42 AM

when installing an IFS rear end in a 79-85 truck your E-Brake cable will be short on each side. SUre you can do some trick stuff like a T-C brake, but this is pretty dang simple:
from Erik's page on 4x4wire:

ocdropzone · 07-11-2009, 06:13 PM

Borrowing this idea from Brian aka Waskillywabbit--very cool cheap trick:

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

I saw some like these on Spike TV, on "Trucks" maybe, a couple weeks ago and I had been meaning to make some anyway.

2x2x1/8 angle (8) pieces at 17" long
1.75" x 0.120 wall HREW tubing (8) pieces at 13" long
5x1.25 wheel casters with steel frames and hard rubber wheels, (16) @ 3.99 each at HF, they roll great on the concrete and the steel frame allowed me to weld them on easily and solidly

I got about $100 in them maybe.

Took me a couple hours to make (4) of these dollies

The base model, 1100 lb capacity per dolly, so I can move around 4400 lbs safely, easily anything I need to at the shop.

With the 12 ton jack stand (I got these for their height, not for the weight). I can use these to move around a frame, tube chassis, axle, whatver.

With a 39.5" Irok

A very worth while additional to any shop and a heckovalot cheaper than buying some dollies.

I am going to paint them tomorrow a nice flourescent orange so they don't "bite" me on the shop floor.

ocdropzone · 07-17-2009, 01:58 AM

this is some awesome tech from this thread: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804330

Quote:

Originally Posted by spork2367

so, everyone is all about replacing their lspv with a new proportioning valve and new brake lines...or wire tying up the arm for the lspv...etc. well, if your brake lines are in nice shape, and your lspv is working properly, you can easily turn it into an adjustable proportioning valve and leave your brake lines intact. i had my lspv off, but it's not necessary to remove it.

i don't have the exact measurements, because i made it on the fly on my cnc mill (lathe wasn't hooked up yet), but if you aren't a moron, you could remake it on a lathe, or drill press out of just about any material you wanted.

the black plastic part in the one pic is the original piece held in by the c-clip that the arm goes into. the brass piece is what i replaced it with. it is tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt. voila.

ocdropzone · 07-29-2009, 11:08 PM

How to help prevent Crushed axle tubes-( from this spring perch/axlw tube thread on Pirate )
-sometimes axle tubes are crushed due to wheel hop of larger tires, overtorquing of the u-bolts:

the Symptoms:

Quote:

I noticed my pinion angle decreasing over time, past being inline with hte driveshaft, to where the agle was a few degrees negative.

But when I set out to grind out the welds on my perches i noticed thatthe tube had been crushed by the perches.

thats a 1/4" gap under the straight edge.

A Cure:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErikB

I've seen it before. U-bolts dent the housing a little sometimes but wrap is what caves it in on the front side.
Here's what I've done to spread the load around the tube better.

always remember to stitch weld when working on axle tubes to prevent warping

ocdropzone · 08-14-2009, 09:55 AM

Zuk, a member on this board and several others, is pretty much a master at setting up Toyota Third members.

His website: http://gearinstalls.com/ has several great write ups on setting up diffs

Tools needed to set up a Differential:
http://gearinstalls.com/gearinstalltools.htm

Breaking in Differentials: http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...arbreakin.html

Definitions of DIffential terms, pattern examples:
http://www.differentials.com/install.html

Definitions:
Ring & Pinion gears
The driveshaft is connected to and drives the pinion gear, which in-turn drives the ring gear at a reduced rate and at a 90 degree angle from the driveshaft. The ring gear is basically connected to the wheels.
Backlash
This is the term used to describe the "clearance" between the ring & pinion gears and is usually measured in thousandths-of-an-inch by a dial indicator. Example .008-.012"
Drive / Coast
The drive side of the ring gear is the side of the tooth that is contacted when the vehicle is accelerating / The coast side is the side of the tooth on the ring gear that is contacted when the vehicle is decelerating (during engine-braking).
Pattern
This refers to the tooth contact area of the gearset; In other words, Where the Ring gear and the Pinion gear "Rub" together.
Preload
The Pinion bearings and Carrier bearings run a little tight, similar to the way a wheel bearing should be "loaded". The tapered bearings are adjusted to eliminate any play and then they are set a little tighter, making them a little "hard to turn". This is measured by checking the torque required to turn the bearings with a dial torque wrench. Example 15 to 25 in.lbs.
Pinion Depth
This is set with "pinion shims" and controls how the pinion contacts the ring gear in relation to the axle center.
Crush Sleeve
A piece of "pipe" that is used to hold the pinion bearings apart and offer some resistance for the pinion nut. The pinion nut must be tightened down, crushing the crush sleeve, until proper pinion preload adjustment is achieved.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

**links pulled from Zuk's site and google.

ocdropzone · 09-09-2009, 09:32 AM

not getting fuel

http://www.yotatech.com/f115/holy-he.../#post51224581

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsidner

I thought I had!!! I learned so much and thought I had it all figured out. Now I'm left with...no injector pulse. I'm getting spark, it turns over at about 600-700 rpm, I've looked through all of my fuses, ohmed out and volted out everything possible, double checked all of my wiring, and banged my face against the grill. I have the IGT lead from the ECU going straight into the starter to bypass the NSS. My main relay clicks and all of that. The only thing that I haven't done is hook a 12v LED to my injector harness but my exhaust manifold is bone dry bone dry (piping isn't hooked up) so it's clearly not getting fuel.

It is an '84 4runner if that helps. I don't see a check engine light or trouble code. If you can think of something obvious the please for God's sake let me know. If you live in central ohio, you're really nice, and would be willing to lend me some time or want some money, please email me. I need help or I'm going to roll this thing out of my garage into my driveway and just set the thing on fire. I just want to hear this thing run so I can order my suspension and brakes. Please please help! Thank you ahead of time for solving all of my problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Crawler

Check the injector wire splices:

Not uncommon for problems to show up there:

Some threads on this problem with more information:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...rue#Post850091

- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1

ocdropzone · 09-09-2009, 09:43 AM

Toyota Parts Identificaton link
http://www.toyodiy.com

Toyota Truck Dismantlers: body parts/axles etc
The Toy Man (newberg, OR) http://www.thetoyotaman.com/
MazToy (troutdale, OR)http://maztoy.com/
Davez Off Road: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/
Yotayard (colorado) http://www.yotayard.com/home.htm
Jim's Got Parts (Denver, CO) http://jimsgotparts.com/
California Mini Trucks (Cali) http://www.calminitruck.com/
NIX99 (washington state) http://nix99.com/
Rancho Toyota Truck Dismantler (Cali) http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/
ToyoKings (FLA) http://www.toyokingsusedparts.com/
Yotatech Classifields :http://www.yotatech.com/f91/
TTORA Classifieds: http://ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3
Pirate classifieds: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4
Parts Locators: http://www.autopartslocator.com/
http://www.seekautoparts.com/

ocdropzone · 09-22-2009, 08:21 AM

Note: Will be adding other stuff soon

**from: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=772346

**This would probably be great on a trail rig...if you DD your rig a lot, consider getting DS work done professionally

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazrunner

Well there used to be a post on here about making a 2 1/2 inch Sch. 40 driveline that is now gone.:shaking: Well here is my take on it.

First I cut the stock tube on the d-line in half and drill 4 holes on each end of the remaining tube to plug weld. Also, I used my front square shaft to find the length of the driveline at ride hight, made life easy.

Then I found some t-case parts that I had sitting around to start making a jig. Both pieces are the part of the case the holds the forward drop drive flange, if that makes sense.

Bolted up the two halves of the d-line and compressed the yoke as down as far as possible.

Then I used c-clamps to clamp them to my very messy work bench

Made sure that the ears were in phase by putting an angle finder on the flat spot of each u-joint and made my first tack

Then I clamped some flat strap down to use my magnetic dial gauge... then started tacking turning and beating on the driveline to minimize the run out

Finish product was able to get it under .010 in for the run out... of course the first rock I smack will probably undo all that.:flipoff2:

Anyway maybe this will help someone.

ocdropzone · 09-25-2009, 06:55 PM

from this thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/hi-stee...stions-192496/

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Tape measure and a friend.
Front of tires should be toe in by 1/8". Tighten down the jam nuts.
Cake.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Crawler

Looks like it'll work.

Here is how I do mine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Crawler

1/4" might start to show a little uneven tread wear, likely on the outside edges of the tires, but it may be OK. I also like to recheck my alignment with the weight on the wheels, I find mine toes out a little bit with the weight on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Place the steering wheel so that it is in the center of it's movement left to right. Bolt on the pitman arm using the stock nut and washer. Connect the left side of the steering Drag Link to the the front most hole in the right side steering arm. Tie rod ends should have approximately 3 three exposed threads. Do not expose more than 1/2 of the tie rod end threads as this can cause an unsafe driving condition.

With the truck on the ground, set the tow-in of the front tires at 1/8". This is done by turning the Tie Rod with the jam nuts loose. Measure the widest part of the tire at the front and rear of the tire. Adjust the Tie Rod until the front is 1/8" narrower than the rear.

Once completed turn the steering wheel all the way left and right. Verify that the wheels turn the same amount left and right. If not, adjust the length of the drag link or adjust the position of the pitman arm.

Tighten the pitman nut to 130 ft/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts on the Tie Rod and Drag Link using an adjustable wrench.

ocdropzone · 10-11-2009, 10:47 PM

**More to follow

:

Indications you might have a head gasket leak:

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/signs-h...t-leak-193718/

ocdropzone · 10-12-2009, 03:41 PM

I picked up a used transmission and transfer case recently to replace the one that took a dump on me...cleaning it up I needed a place to put the bolts and washers, remember that I had bought a magnet parts bowl at harbor freight awhile ago for like a buck or two:

thought it was kind of cool till I realized how small it was as I was grabbing a pop out of the garage fridge and saw all these magnets on the door...hmmmm

looked at all the x-mas cookie tins on the shelf, glanced at the drill.
had this a few minutes laterL

20 times the capacity with a lid...

ocdropzone · 10-19-2009, 12:36 PM

Here is a good, cheap write up on replacing your side marker lights
that Rowdy 235 did a couple of years ago:
http://www.yotatech.com/f114/side-cl.../#post50698729

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdy235

Okay, first a bit of background. When I bought my truck, I noticed the rear side-marker lights did not come on. I assumed they were reflectors, but soon found out otherwise. The front ones worked fine, so I didn't worry about it.

Fast forward to Saturday- I found out the front left marker bulb was out. I remove the lens and boom! the whole assembly just crumbles right there in my hands. As with most things like this I thought (in this order)
Crap!
I am so stupid
How can I fix it.

So I called up the local napa and asked about replacements. When I was quoted $26.99 a piece I quickly decided I could do it better.

So a trip to napa later brought back 4 generic clearance lights ($.99!), some connector to connect the lights, and some heatshrink. To mount the lights, I simply drilled holes in the back and ran the screws backward. That was fine for the back, where I can get behind the lights, but on the front I had to drill through the light assembly to mount it.

Overall it turned out to be IMO better than stock and a heck of a lot cheaper, I even have 2 spares behind the seat! Also they are quite a bit brighter.

cheap, effeciate and readily available

06-21-2009, 01:58 AM	#52 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	How to Make your Weber work on a hill Found this one on a Local 4Wheeler board linked from the Marlin Board: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...8356#msg588356 compliments of dropthattaco: Ok, so I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 81 4x4. The Weber works great on the 22r, and picked up a bit of pep and the driveability is loads better than stock. Even gets 18 MPG much to my surprise. Unfortunately, the Weber really does not like going up hills. Deciding this was unacceptable, I took it upon myself to remedy this situation. The problem is the location of the bowl vent. When the truck tilts back, the fuel spills into the air horn, making the truck stall. To fix this there are three things you need to do. First, make sure the float level is AT MOST spec height, preferrably 1-2mm lower. Second, install a fuel pressure regulator. I use this one: and it's set to 2psi. NO MORE. Third, you need to relocate the fuel bowl vent. This is the hardest part, and the one I'm going to focus on. To relocate the bowl vent: Remove the top of the carb. You will notice a couple of rectangles that pass through the top. One of these is the the bowl vent. It is the one closest to the fuel inlet, furthest from the choke tower. You will need to plug it. I used JB Weld. Here: And here it is after the JB weld: Now you will need to make a vent to replace the one you plugged. Luckily there is a blanked port that isn't used on these carbs. Here's what you do. Drill some holes in the port to allow the vapors out. You will be able to see your drill bit through the hole in the end. Then you will need to vent the vapor somewhere. The fitting in the end is 3/8" inside diameter, so I bought some copper tube from ACE hardware and hammered it in. and from the top: Then I routed it to the stock carb charcoal canister (under the battery) using 3/8" fuel hose. And here's the finished product: Runs up hills like a champ now. Good luck!!! __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

06-21-2009, 06:29 AM	#53 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	IFS Frame Dimensions IFS Frame Dimensions Link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=599542 __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

07-10-2009, 09:42 AM	#54 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	Extending Rear E-Brake cable when installing IFS Rear End when installing an IFS rear end in a 79-85 truck your E-Brake cable will be short on each side. SUre you can do some trick stuff like a T-C brake, but this is pretty dang simple: from Erik's page on 4x4wire: __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

08-14-2009, 09:55 AM	#58 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	Toyota Gear/Differential set Up links Zuk, a member on this board and several others, is pretty much a master at setting up Toyota Third members. His website: http://gearinstalls.com/ has several great write ups on setting up diffs Tools needed to set up a Differential: http://gearinstalls.com/gearinstalltools.htm Breaking in Differentials: http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...arbreakin.html Definitions of DIffential terms, pattern examples: http://www.differentials.com/install.html Definitions: Ring & Pinion gears The driveshaft is connected to and drives the pinion gear, which in-turn drives the ring gear at a reduced rate and at a 90 degree angle from the driveshaft. The ring gear is basically connected to the wheels. Backlash This is the term used to describe the "clearance" between the ring & pinion gears and is usually measured in thousandths-of-an-inch by a dial indicator. Example .008-.012" Drive / Coast The drive side of the ring gear is the side of the tooth that is contacted when the vehicle is accelerating / The coast side is the side of the tooth on the ring gear that is contacted when the vehicle is decelerating (during engine-braking). Pattern This refers to the tooth contact area of the gearset; In other words, Where the Ring gear and the Pinion gear "Rub" together. Preload The Pinion bearings and Carrier bearings run a little tight, similar to the way a wheel bearing should be "loaded". The tapered bearings are adjusted to eliminate any play and then they are set a little tighter, making them a little "hard to turn". This is measured by checking the torque required to turn the bearings with a dial torque wrench. Example 15 to 25 in.lbs. Pinion Depth This is set with "pinion shims" and controls how the pinion contacts the ring gear in relation to the axle center. Crush Sleeve A piece of "pipe" that is used to hold the pinion bearings apart and offer some resistance for the pinion nut. The pinion nut must be tightened down, crushing the crush sleeve, until proper pinion preload adjustment is achieved. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ links pulled from Zuk's site and google. __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS** Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

09-09-2009, 09:43 AM	#60 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	parts Identification, Parts sources Toyota Parts Identificaton link http://www.toyodiy.com Toyota Truck Dismantlers: body parts/axles etc The Toy Man (newberg, OR) http://www.thetoyotaman.com/ MazToy (troutdale, OR)http://maztoy.com/ Davez Off Road: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/ Yotayard (colorado) http://www.yotayard.com/home.htm Jim's Got Parts (Denver, CO) http://jimsgotparts.com/ California Mini Trucks (Cali) http://www.calminitruck.com/ NIX99 (washington state) http://nix99.com/ Rancho Toyota Truck Dismantler (Cali) http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/ ToyoKings (FLA) http://www.toyokingsusedparts.com/ Yotatech Classifields :http://www.yotatech.com/f91/ TTORA Classifieds: http://ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3 Pirate classifieds: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4 Parts Locators: http://www.autopartslocator.com/ http://www.seekautoparts.com/ __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

10-11-2009, 10:47 PM	#63 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	Head Gasket Issues More to follow: Indications you might have a head gasket leak: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/signs-h...t-leak-193718/ __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS** Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

10-12-2009, 03:41 PM	#64 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,701	Cheap Parts Holder I picked up a used transmission and transfer case recently to replace the one that took a dump on me...cleaning it up I needed a place to put the bolts and washers, remember that I had bought a magnet parts bowl at harbor freight awhile ago for like a buck or two: thought it was kind of cool till I realized how small it was as I was grabbing a pop out of the garage fridge and saw all these magnets on the door...hmmmm looked at all the x-mas cookie tins on the shelf, glanced at the drill. had this a few minutes laterL 20 times the capacity with a lid... __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

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