Originally Posted by Albin

From Billavista's paper:

" 3. Reservoirs

3-1. Reservoirs.

A reservoir stores a liquid that is not being used in a hydraulic system. It has many other important functions too:

* It also allows gases to expel and foreign matter to settle out from a liquid.
* It functions as a cooler
* It functions as a "coarse strainer", providing sedimentation of impurities
* It functions as an air and water separator
* It functions as a foundation for pumps etc.

a. Construction. A properly constructed reservoir should be able to dissipate heat from the oil, separate air from the oil, and settle out contaminates that are in it. Reservoirs range in construction from small steel stampings to large cast or fabricated units. The large tanks should be sandblasted after all the welding is completed and then flushed and steam cleaned.

b. Shape. Design features of a reservoir. It should be high and narrow rather than shallow and broad. The oil level should be as high as possible above the opening to a pump's suction line. This prevents the vacuum at the line opening from causing a vortex or whirlpool effect, which would mean that a system is probably taking in air. Aerated oil will not properly transmit power because air is compressible. Aerated oil has a tendency to break down and lose its lubricating ability. To increase the ability of the tank to separate dirt and water, the bottom must be slightly inclined (deepest end opposite the inlet/outlet end). An ordinary cock (without handle) is fitted so that impurities can easily be drained off. Increased separation of the air that is always present in the oil can be obtained by fitting an inclined coarse metal strainer (approx. 25-50 mesh/ inch) by the return line. Both suction and return pipes must be cut diagonally. The ends of the pipes must be located 2-4 times the pipe diameter above the bottom of the tank, partly to avoid foaming at the return line, and partly to prevent air from being drawn into the suction line, especially when the vehicle/vessel heels over to one side.

c. Size. A reservoir must be large enough so that it has a reserve of oil with all the cylinders in a system fully extended. An oil reserve must be high enough to prevent a vortex at the suction line's opening. A reservoir must have sufficient space to hold all the oil when the cylinders are retracted, as well as allow space for expansion when the oil is hot. A common-size reservoir on a mobile machine is a 20- or 30-gallon tank used with a 100- GPM system. Many 10-GPM systems operate with 2- or 3-gallon tanks because these mobile systems operate intermittently, not constantly. For stationary machinery, a rule of thumb is that a reservoir’s size should be two to three times a pump’s output per minute. A large size tank is highly desirable for cooling. The large surface areas exposed to the outside air transfer heat from the oil. Also, a large tank helps settle out the contaminates and separates the air by reducing recirculation. If the application is mobile, if there is no cooler built into the system, and provided the tank is located where air circulation is good, ideally the size of the tank should be approx. 2-3 times the capacity of the pump per minute.In our 4x4 systems we are unlikely to be able to achieve such large reservoir capacities as this, but the important lesson is that your reservoirs cannot be too big - it is best to use the largest possible reservoir space and weight restrictions allow."

Further down, it states this:

" f. Line Connections. A pump suction and a tank's return lines should be attached by flanges or by welded heavy-duty couplings. Standard couplings usually are not suitable because they spread when welded. If a suction line is connected at the bottom, a coupling should extend well above the bottom, inside the tank; residual dirt will not get in a suction line when a tank or strainer is cleaned. A return line should discharge near a tank's bottom always below the oil level. A pipe is usually cut at a 45-degree angle and the flow aimed away from a suction line to improve circulation and cooling. A baffle plate is used to separate a suction line from a return line. This causes the return oil to circulate around an outer wall for cooling before it gets to the pump again. A baffle plate should be about two-thirds the height of a tank. The lower corners are cut diagonally to allow circulation. They must be larger in area than a suction line's cross section. Otherwise the oil level between a return and a suction side might be uneven. Baffling also prevents oil from sloshing around when a machine is moving. Many large reservoirs are cross-baffled to provide cooling and prevent sloshing."


From here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ng/index1.html
Good luck.

Al

Originally Posted by crash

Ok, there is one thing that you really need ... some way to keep the p/s fluid temp down. Since I am going to tap the steering box for hydro assist, that will help with keeping the temps down a little, but a cooler is still needed. Unfortunately there is just NO room down low (You always need to make sure your reservior is the highest point or fluid will drain back and overfill the res.) to mount the cooler easily. I finally ended up mouting it to the battery tray...

Originally Posted by fourx4sr4me

I just finished building my truck and installed the TG Power steering pump, resevoir, and cooler. I tapped my own PS box and used a 6" stroke 1 1/2" PSC Ram. I am using royal purple synthetic PS fluid. I bled everything real well and the system was working good. I took it for a ride today and the steering got progressivly worse. I had it ideling and opened the resevoir to see a small vortex drawing air occasionally. With the truck off the large resy is filled up to the welded seam. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? I've read about this issue with stock resevoirs but the problem went away when the installed a larger one or increased capacity. Thanks

Originally Posted by OOP'S

That is what I like about my PSC reservoir; it has a filter, which acts like a baffle. In addition, the feed is on the side and the return is on the bottom.

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

The IFS box mount is pretty simple. Cut the fender well so you can easily access the PS box area like shown in my pictures posted already and then push the box all the way forward until it is on the core. Angle it so the holes line up on the frame in the center and then test fit your mounting plates. Tack weld and test fit again to make sure the pitman arm clears and weld out.

Originally Posted by 98taco4x

oh and make sure that your drag link clears your tierod.
Cause you don't want this.

Originally Posted by gtr1990

Here is a '79

Originally Posted by MaXXis85

Here is my 85 bedfore I did anyhting with it.

Originally Posted by Kiwipushrod

So, I put some 4.7 gears in My single, forward shift, T-case yesterday. I've worked on lots of New Process cases but never a toyota case, so I actually read the directions..........that was My downfall.

When you read the directions, You dont really watch what's going on because You're depending on the step by step directions to guide You, plus looking at the cool pictures.



So I clearanced the case for the new oversized gear. I fit the gear in place and all looked good






I also clearanced the shift fork/dog for Low gear, just like the pictures tell You to do.

I put the whole thing back together, and thats when I found out that as soon as I put the case in low gear on the bench, that it locked up.

So, of course I just added some more force to fix the problem. Well, when I did that it would make a ty noise and then would jump out of low gear. WTF.

I pull the whole thing apart to trace the problem down. And now for the stupid part.

The directions say to clearance the low gear shift fork down, but they dont tell You to grind the roll pin for that fork down, or dont drive it all the way home. Because if You dont shorten that roll pin or do drive it down all the way........Guess what?

It then hits the in new oversized gear and locks Your Up!

This is the pin in question after shortening it.


In low gear, after the fix.



I hope this helps some other Noob, do it right the First time.

Kiwi

Originally Posted by BigMike

Kiwipushrod,

I noticed you are installing TG gears but the same applies with our instructions in that the former employee who made the guide left that part out!

So I have updated step 49 of our installer to include this required info
http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/gu...1-gear-install

Thanks for the tip!
Mike

Originally Posted by GRMhick

I could go on for hours about this subject, so I will keep this short.

First, there are 3 basic types of winches:

Planetary:


Spur Gear:


Worm Gear:



Planetary winches are a great option for the recreational 4x4 enthusiast. They are relatively affordable, and perform well under occasional use. Although the quality varies the greatest among this sector.

The other types of winches are Spur Gear, and Worm Gear winches. These are industrial winches. If your going to use your winch 5, 10, 50 times a day, buy a Spur or Worm Drive winch. Also notice that I showed pictures of almost every winch in this market. The Ramsey shown is almost identical to what you will find on almost every flat bed wrecking truck on the road today. The Superwinch Husky is an offroad recovery worm drive winch. Then, we all know the Warn 8274. Worm drive winches are also the only winches which are designed to power a load out.

As I mentioned, the big difference comes in the Planetary gear winches.
The largest issues with these winches come from poor build quality. Its very common to have 1 or 2 85 amp solenoids going to a 400 amp motor. Thus, the solenoids will melt. Also, the motors do not have a long duty cycle. Heat becomes a killer for these winches. Planetary drive winches use a brake to hold the load in place. Normally it does not work very well. When you power out, the brake engages, and is always pushing against the winch. Guess, what, this creates heat.

For those who like to run synthetic winch line, this heat will melt the winchline. Most winches (warn's, milemarker's, ramsey's, etc) have the brake under the winch drum. This means as you power out the winch will heat up, and melt the winch line. While most have sidestepped this issue by using fireline, it still is a problem. The only manufacturer who has an external brake, is superwinch, in their EP series winches:



Another issue with synthetic winchline is it is very slick, thus causing it to slide in-between the underlaying layers on the winch drum. With steel cable, it is very easy to spool the cable, so it is nice and tight, avoiding this issue. Even with with best spool job, synthetic winchline will slip in-between the lower layers. This causes a very hard side-load on the winch:



On the Warn winches, it will cause the casting of the winch to snap off at the cross bars. I wish I had a good photo of when one broke on my co-worker in Maine. It made a bad situation worse.



Next is going into rating. Some manufacturers rate the winches at their stall speed and some rate their winches at their working load. So, YES one manufacturer can call a winch a 8,000, and some could call it 10,000.

I don't know if you can tell, but I have had to use ALOT of winches, and prefer Superwinch. They just seem to be built better. I have also had a lot of problems with Warn Winches. But this could also be because I have used 10 warn winches to every other winch out there. I personally feel, if you want a REALLY good winch, you should suck it up and buy a worm, or spur drive winch. I love the superwinch husky, but its stupid expensive. The Warn 8274 is awesome, but so fast, it can get unsafe. I ended up picking up a Ramsey re12000 for my current truck, because they are priced right, and short of some bad solenoids (easy to swap in superwinch solenoids), are really good winches.


Let me know what else you would like to know.

Originally Posted by GRMhick

Ha ha. I was hoping you wouldn't ask about the Smittybilt winch. Its one of the few I have NOT used. Although, when you look at the specs next to a warn, it makes any educated buyers wonder why they would want the warn:



See, the specifications on the Smittybult are better! More hp, with less gearing means a faster winch, which does not slow down as much under hard pulls. Warn put in a lower hp motor, and increased the gearing to get the same 8000lb rating out of it.

Also remember the size of the drum acts as a gear too. While not an issue with the 2 winches in question, it becomes something to look at when comparing other winches on the market. Just think: Torque=ForcexDistance So the farther the cable is from the center of the pivot (the drum) the less torque is applied through the winch cable. Thus, less pulling power.



So the smaller the drum of the winch, the more torque you get out of the winch cable. The larger the drum, the less torque out of the winch, but the faster the speed. This also works the other way around. The more wraps on the winch drum, the less power a winch can exert. This will easily drop the pulling power of your 8000lb winch to 4500lbs.



Moving onto the Chicago Electric winch. This is one I have used. After using other winches, this thing feels like it is straight out of 1945. When it gets a load on it, the winch moves SLOW. It also makes so much noise you think that it is un-oiled and the gears are about to seize up. One thing I really don't like about the winch is that the passenger side of the winch spins with the drum. I'm not a big fan of external parts to the winch moving. Its one more chance to get fingers caught up and pinched.

One winch I have been impressed by (for the price) is the milemarker SE9500C:



My buddy Max runs one on his Jeep. What I like the most about this winch is it has a thermal cutout switch. So when the winch gets hot, it shuts down. Keeps dummies like me from frying a substantial chunk of change. I wish more winches has this feature.




Hydraulic winches are awesome. They will pull a house down. But they are not well suited for vehicle recovery. A vehicle needs to be running for the winch to work. There are quite a few situations where it is safer to have the vehicle off, or it is rolled over, and needs to be winched back up. This task is not possible with a hydraulic winch. For our purposes, the electric winch is the only way to go.



Winch looks good! Having 4 crossbars should help quite a bit supporting a synthetic winchline. Just remember, try your best never to power out, and keep as few wraps on the drum as possible to help prevent any side loading to the winch. Synthetic line needs about 10 wraps on a bare drum before you can winch off of it. I'd try my best to keep it there as much as possible. One easy way to help with this is to have 70' of winchline on the drum, and carry a 50' winch extension line with you.

One other point I should mention is ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS wear gloves when winching. Even with synthetic line. Steel cable will get burs in it, and poke your hand. Synthetic line picks up outside elements as it is dragged across the ground. A small stick doesn't seem too bad until it is gouged into your hand!

Also make sure to wear a glove that will fall off easily. If a winch cable were to catch your glove, you want the glove to easily come off of your hand so your hand is not sucked into the winch. This is especially important with the warn 8274 and its 74 ft/min line-speed.

I suggest using a rappelling glove. I use PMI's. And if I can find the PMI heavy-duty gloves, I buy those.




As you can see rappelling gloves have an extra layer across your palm to help keep your hands safe. Thick enough to help protect, but still thin enough to allow movement. Perfect for recreational winching.

Again, if there is anything anyone would like to know, post up!

Originally Posted by GRMhick

What winchline you have, and how long is completely dependent on what your surroundings are like.

Here are some questions to ask yourself.

1) How far away is the nearest winchpoint where I wheel?

2) Will my winchline rub on anything?

For simplicity of this argument, lets focus on steel cable vs. synthetic.

Question #1 refers to the length of your cable. The wheeler who enjoys going through the Southern California Desert is going to need a much longer cable than someone who spends their time in Rousch Creek.

The goal is to have 5 wraps with steel cable, or 10 with synthetic when you start your pull. I round it up to 10' longer than your average pull. So lets say your from PA, and most of your pulls are 20-40' long. I would tell you to run a 50' winchline.

But if you are from Southern California, the anchor may be 100-200 feet away. So this person may need 150' of cable on the drum, plus a winch extension line (or 2).

But if you run synthetic line, you can easily shorten the winch-line to make sure you get those 10 wraps on the drum... more on that below.

Onto question #2. will my winchline rub on anything?

If you answered yes to this question, do not run synthetic line. Tree branches, rocks, and other environmental factors can easily damage a synthetic line and cause it to snap very very easily.

Are the most abrasive conditions your winchline will see be sand? Or are you going to be extra careful with the winchline to make sure it never rubs a rock? Then synthetic will be a great choice.

Remember, having synthetic line is much safer than steel line. Synthetic line does not stretch line steel. Steel will stretch about 15%, and if it were to snap, it take out anything in its path. This is where I want to add a very cool photo of a winchline that went through a land rover discovery, but I can't fine the photo. I would love it if someone could post that photo up for me.

An interesting thing to think about, is a synthetic line is easily damaged by the outside environment, but is not damaged by itself. A steel cable is not easily damaged by the outside environment, but is easily damaged by itself. For example, when you spool a steel cable, it is easy to kink the line, putting in a stress point, and weakening it. Leave it like that for too long, and it can fail.

If synthetic line snaps, you will most likely get a bruise. Although the biggest advantage I see, is how much easier it is to run a synthetic cable up a hill.

To the average user, who is clueless about winches, manufacturers have found that 100' of steel cable is the best choice. It is abrasion resistant, and is a good length to attach to the nearest winch anchor. This is why almost every winch you see on the market today has around 100' of steel cable on it.

To the question about fire wire. All winchlines should be able to withstand some heat from the bare drum. Otherwise, the line can melt, and thus, fail. So if you have a planetary winch, make sure the wrap around the drum is some kind of high temperature line.

Here is a trick I learned from Bill Burke about shortening winch lines, and winch extension lines. Just make a daisy chain. It does not hurt the winchline, and gives you the ability to tailor the length of the line to fit your pull:



Step 1: Flip the thimble through the screw pin d-shackle making a loop.

Step 2: Pull loop back with your right hand, leaving the single cable in your left hand.

Step 3: Cross line in left hand through the loop, and switch the old loop to your right hand, and the single cable to your left hand.

Step 4: Pull on the single cable with your right hand to create a new loop. The single cable is now in your left hand again. Repeat this action to shorten the winchline as necessary.

Step 5: When the winch line is at the appropriate length, stick a bunch through the loop in your right hand and pull back with your left hand to close the loop. I use a hitch pin as a bung, but most anything solid will work. I have even used a rolled up newspaper before.

Step 6: Give the winchline a good tug, to make sure everything is good and tight. Now your ready to winch.

Originally Posted by ErikB

When you do a winch pull with the motor, the motor is taking the load. If you pull on the cable by moving the truck when the winch is off, then the brake is taking the load, which might not be good for it, especially when it gets shock loaded.

Pulling on the cable with the truck is a lot more likely to cause a shock load, and shock loads can be several times that of a normal winch pull. This could cause a failure somewhere (probably the cable). That's why yank straps are better for pulling with the vehicle- they stretch to absorb and reduce some of the shock load, and they have higher pull ratings. If you were in low-low and very careful not to yank and cause a shock load, I'm sure it would be ok though.


And don't combine a winch with a yank strap either. I did that dragging OOP's out of Fordyce once. When the cable (rope) broke, the yank strap shot his winch hook at my rig. Luckily it went under my rig instead of into it. Lesson learned! :eek: I should have known better though...

Originally Posted by OOP'S

If you read Eriks he told you why not to use a tow strap, you want to use winch rope.

Here are a couple of threads by Scott at Rockstomper on spliceing and putting loops in winch rope.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=177074

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=177344

Originally Posted by GRMhick

Someone gave me the link once to ones from autozone for $15 a piece. I tried to find them, with no luck.

Although, seriously consider wiring in a Superwinch S3 Solenoid, or another manufacturer's sealed solenoid box. The S3 is the solenoid which is in the EP series and husky series winches. I believe the T-Max Boomer box is the same kind of solenoid setup. If it is sealed, the contacts do not get corroded, thus, they have less resistance, and are less likely to fail. Plus, most of these newer sealed solenoids are designed as a 450 amp solenoid, instead of running 2 85 amp solenoids in parallel.



Your solenoid box, with a bad solenoid, and the control plug taken out is worth around $50. It goes back to everything with Warn stamped on it being worth gold. The S3 solenoid is $120. So your out $70, but have a FAR more reliable solenoid setup.

Originally Posted by sinistertrucker

I did this mod on my 82 Pick-up and it works great!

The early 22R's pre 84.5's run the 40 Amp externally regulated alternators.

While the 85+ 22R's have the 60 Amp internally regulated alternators.

Comparison photo, the early model alt is considerably larger.


The lower engine/alternator mounts are different, sorry I don't have pics of them. But the older 40amp alternator is mounted in a "female" fashion, while the older mounted in a "male" fashion. The upper mount/adjustment point are the same on both alternators/engines.

The wiring harness from the alternators to the fenderwell plugs are also different. They both are wired differently and have different plug patterns. The only mod necessary is on the fenderwell wiring:
-Carefully remove the 'cover' on the top of the plug(no pic again!)
-Pry the wires out the back of the plug

-Eliminate the external regulator with wiring, LEAVE enough wire to splice into the alternator connection.

-Simple color coordination here, just line up the colors with the coresponding color on the "new" alternator harness. yellow-yellow red-red black-black white-white
-You will have a extra yellow wire after you splice the new connector, I just spliced it into the other yellow wire. PIC


I just ran a 8Ga wire from the white to my ammeter with a 60 amp inline fuse to the battery.

Parts needed for swap:
-Motor/Alternator mount from later 85+ 22R with internally regulated alternator
-Alternator wire harness from alternator to fenderwell plug
-Internally regulated alternator

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

90 supra runs a 80 amp alternator and it is a plug and play.

Yep. The late 80's Corolla, Supra, Cressida and Mini trucks all ran the same physical size Alternator. The Supra and Cressida got 80 ampers and the rest got 60 amp.

Might have to swap the pully but that would be it. Somethign weird is the early 90's 4Runner got a 70 amp on the 22RE's and it has a different plug.

Originally Posted by angeley

ended up going with a gm type 140 amp powermaster... and one of aaron's skookum bolt on passenger side GM alt brackets:
aaron518@charter.net

The alternator is one wire capable - I wired it up 3 wire for better performance. Review the mad electric link for more info:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

Good Links:

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

txzuk1988:
Not sure what the toy factory reservoir capacity is. But I used it stock with a stock mini truck pump for a while. I simply cut the reservoir in half and added some exhaust tubing to make the tank about 8" tall. Here is the 3" exhaust pipe I used 409 SS

Originally Posted by GRMhick

Sounds like you have the opposite problem I have.

I swapped in the bigger Calipers and now the pedal is too soft and goes to the floor.

Basically, your Master Cyl is too big for the stock 85 calipers. Just replacing one part of the brake system does not always make the brakes better. You have to keep the 'system' working together. Too hard of a pedal means the master is too big. Too soft means it is too small.

Here is the general rundown of how it should be setup.

13/16" master with 4 cyl (2 small/2 large piston) calipers and 79-85 drum brakes
7/8" master with 4 cyl (2 small/2 large piston) calipers and 86-95 drum brakes
1" master with 6 cyl (4 large piston) calipers and 86-95 drum brakes.

Look on the bright side. The 13/16" master cyl is $29 at autozone.

Originally Posted by ErikB

To expand on that some more:

The 13/16" master with small early calipers have a master/caliper hydraulic ratio of 7:1.
Swapping to a 1" master with the small calipers reduces that to 4.6:1.
The pedal will feel much harder, but you lose about 35% of the braking power you had before.

The later trucks with a 1" master and big calipers have a 5.7 ratio, but they made up for that with a dual diaphragm booster.

More info here:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/#Basics

None of the places selling "big bore masters" bother to explain any of this to you though. :p

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

The brake booster on 1st gen Trucks is pretty dang small and the brakes suck to begin with and throw bigger tires on there you are stressing a system designs for 225/75/15's. I saw this thread over on Pirate and thought that I would pass it on, relatively cheap and easy upgrade.. Thanks to drsmash for finding a great way to improve some brake systems that are getting old and tired
I will be doing this one soon...

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=689905




part # at napa: both 2 and 4 wheel 532460


the newer booster is a dual diaphram so it should improve braking dramatically.

Pictures are from original thread:

Originally Posted by Plumbrbob

what does the extra fluid capacity give you?

Originally Posted by Erick561

New info. I'm close to putting my 79 cab on my 88 frame. Threw this together this afternoon.
The 84 and 85 front cross member is 1.46 inches higher than the middle of the frame; The 86-95 front xmember is flush with the middle
1st gen Cab mount width eye to eye

• Front 31.5 inches
• Middle 47.16 inches
• Rear 47.56 inches

2nd gen Width eye to eye

• Front 33.07 inches
• mid 46.3 inches
• rear 46.3 inches

1st gen Length, eye to eye

• Between 1st and 2nd body mount, 44.61 inches
• Between 2nd and 3rd body mount, 38.5 inches
• Overall length of cab mount front to rear, 83.11 inches total

2nd gen Length, eye to eye

• Between 1st and 2nd body mount, 43.98 inches
• Between 2nd and 3rd body mount, 43.78 inches
• Overall length of cab mount front to rear, 87.76 inches total

Width Difference between 1st and 2nd gen
Relocating body mounts to fit 1st gen cab on 2nd gen frame

• Move Front Cab mount .785 inches inward on each side.

I think that the height will be lower than the 79-83 frame if you're working with an 86-88 frame because the crossmember is 1.46 inches higher on a SFA frame, not 100% sure on that though.

• Middle cab mounts will have to be moved .515 inches outward on both sides and .63 inches back on each side.
  
• Rear cab mounts will have to be moved 4.65 inches forward, and .63 inches outward.

Originally Posted by DeathCougar

Oil pan needs to be from 85+

84-prior used the raised ridges. 85+ uses the sunken valleys. Much better sealing, and no cork gasket to go bad.

Originally Posted by crazrunner

I put a 7m-ge in my 4runner so I thought I would start this for the FAQ... I will post what I remember and what I can find. I you have done this swap and I a missing anything please chime in. Or if you have swapped a different supra engine post up any info you have.

7m-ge

Bell Housing/ transmission

There is no 4 wheel drive transmission that will directly bolt up to this engine, but with that said there are some options out there.

W and G series transmissions

A bell housing from a N/A supra manual transmission will bolt up to a W or G series 4 wheel drive transmission and the 7m and 5m blocks.

R series transmissions

There is no direct swap to make this work (that I know of). People have made their own custom bell housings, but this most likely requires machine work and or the capability to weld aluminum.
There is also this after market housing off of Supracharged website; I have no info on quality or compatibility
http://www.monster-performance.com/m...products_id=32

Motor Mounts

Mounts from the 5m-ge will allow a direct bolt into a 22 series engine bay

Oil Pan

The oil pan from the supra will allow more clearance over the oil pan from the Cressida

Wiring

***info from SupraCharged.com***

The C1 connector (yellow connector near igniter) has 2 wires that you will use if you use the EFI main relay in conjunction with the circuit opening relay. Wires that you may need from this connector:

Black/Orange - (M-REL on ECU, not required) - Used as the activating power to the EFI Main Relay

Black/Yellow - (BATT on ECU, required) - constant power, use a 7.5 amp FUSE

EFI Main Relay - In the Supra turbo and other Toyota Turbo vehicles, the ECU controls the EFI Main (M-REL off the ECU.) In Toyota non-turbo cars and trucks, the EFI Main is controled by the ignition switch. You don't have to change this, as I have not seen any problems running it this way, unless you are picky and want to have it exactly the same as the turbo configuration.

If you do want to run it like the 7MGTE, you will have to cut the relay coil power wire that goes into the EFI
main. The location of the EFI main will vary depending on the year of your vehicle. You will need connect the
M-REL wire from the C1 connector, and use it to power your factory EFI main. Again, this will be the Black/Orange wire at the C1 connector. The output of the EFI main should then supply the power to the Circuit Opening Relay.

The Circuit Opening Relay(COR) is what supplies power to the fuel pump. The power that is sent to the COR then to the fuel pump comes from the EFI Main Relay, so the EFI main must be activated before power can be supplied to the COR. The COR has a dual coil for activation, one of the relay coils can be activated by the starter. This is done by supplying power from the starter wire to the relay coil which has a constant ground. That wire is a small guage black wire with blue stripe coming from the large yellow connector (B1) by the ECU. Just tie this wire into your starter wire. The other coil is activated by the Fuel Control, or FC (B1 connector) from the ECU. The ECU sends a ground signal to the COR, and if relay has power from the EFI main relay(discussed earlier), then the COR will supply power to the fuel pump, or the Fuel Pump Control Relay if you wish to use it. If you are running a non-turbo engine, the COR is controled by the green wire going into the AFM, not the ECU. You can splice into that green wire and tie that into the green wire on your project vehicles AFM connector. That will take care of the pump problem.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(FPCR) - (Not Required)- Once power is able to pass through the COR, there is then a FPCR.

This is just a resister to change the voltage to the fuel pump. I have run many swap without this without any problems or any changes in gas mileage. This recieves power from the COR for both the contact switch, and the relay coil. The ground is controled by the FP (B1 connector) signal coming from the ECU.

Both the FPCR and COR are not needed to make this run properly, but you will need to find an alternate way to control the fuel pump. At first I just had mine connected to the ignition switch. Problem with that, is your fuel pump is always if your ignition is on(like if you get in a wreck, you pump will keep pumping fuel....not good).



Summary
In short, if all that was confusing, the only thing you really need to do on the C1 connector is hook the black/yellow wire to constant power. Then for the fuel pump control, hook the green wire up the the FC from the ECU. The 7MGE(non-turbo), does not have a FC from the ECU, instead you will splice the green wire into the 7M engine harness near the 7M AFM connector. I hope after all this, you aren't confused too much.







The B1 connector, or "THE BIG YELLOW CONNECTOR, near the ECU" There are 5 wires you will use grom this connector:

BLACK/WHITE - Large 10 guage Black with a white stripe - Starter (depending on year, AT/MT, this could have a white or blue stripe)

Black/orange - Large 10 or 12 guage black with a orange stripe - Needs switched power. This runs directly from the ignition switch, and powers your injectors, coil, and igniter.

Black/orange - Small 16 guage black with orange stripe. This also needs switched power. This could be tied into the Large black/orage wire.

Green - (FC on ECU) - Green wire - This controls ground the Circuit Opening Relay

yellow - (FP on ECU) - Yellow wire - NOT NEEDED! this is used to reduce the voltage on the fuel pump, but is not
neccesary.

Starter
This is the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. It is located in the center part of the connector. In a
manual, this will travel from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch, through the starter relay, then
through this connector. Automatics are a little more difficult. If you do have an auto wiring harness, the starter wire run through the engine harness, to the tranny harness under the intake manifold. You will need to cut and splice the wires togother in order to complete the loop to feed power to the starter solenoid. The auto will usually use a Black/White wire, and the manual will use a Black/Blue wire. In some vehicles such as the 85-older supra's, and I have noticed older model pickups, that this wire goes through tho body harness. If this is the case, you will have to figure out where that is, splice into it, and run it to this connector. On newer vehicles the starter will run through the engine harness.

Accessory Power
This is a large black wire with an orange stripe. Along with the starter, these are the two center wires in this
connector. You have to have switched power to this wire in order to supply power to your injectors, coil, and igniter. This usually comes through the ignition, and requires at least 15 amps. In other words, don't use the
power from your radio.

Circuit Opening Relay(Ground)
The green wire coming from the FC signal from the ECU, controls the ground on the Circuit Opening Relay. As long as there is power to this relay(which is discussed on the C1 connector), power will then travel to the fuel pump, or Fuel Pump Control Relay. This allows your fuel pump only to turn on when the engine is running. When the engine stops running, the ECU will cut the ground signal to this wire, which will turn off the Circuit Opening Relay, and no longer supply power to the fuel pump.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(Ground)- This is for the resister, and is not needed This yellow wire from the FP signal on the ECU, is used for a dual speed fuel pump setting. The ECU will supply a ground to the Fuel Pump Control Relay, which will then change the resistance on the power going to the fuel pump.

The relay and resistor is located on the passenger side strut tower. I have run many swaps without this component, and have not seen any impact on fuel economy or peformance.






The M1 connector or "Small Yellow Connector" There are 5 wires you need from this connector:

Yellow/Black - yellow with a black stripe - oil pressure for guage and ECU

Yellow/Green - Yellow with a green stripe - Water temp for guage

Pink - Pink Wire - speed sensor from Combonation Meter.

Green/Gray - Green with gray stripe - Engine light black - Tach (tach mod may be required) Click here for details for 3VZE-7MGTE mod.

Water Temp
The water temp wire, yellow with black stripe is used for your guage only. This is not the temp sensor used for your ECU, so if you get a water temp error on your codes, this is not where you want to look to solve your problem. All toyota vehicles use this color wire for the temp guage, so your swap vehicle will have the same color wire.

Oil Pressure
The same is also true with the Oil Pressure wire. This comes from the oil pressure sending unit and will always
be the same color. Yellow with black stripe. On the 7M, this also feeds into the ECU. I am not really sure why
the ECU needs to know the oil pressure, as I have found it to have no impact on the way the engine runs whether or not it is hooked up to the ECU. In fact, your guage might not even work if it runs through the ECU. You also may need to use your Oil sending unit from your old motor. They are calibrated for the guage on your vehicle. These are pretty easy to change with a 14mm open end wrench, or a very large socket.

Engine Light
The Engine light requires a ground signal from the ECU. This is a black wire. Simple as that. Check your vehicles wiring diagram to figure out what what that is. The 7M uses the black wire, but on other vehicles, I have seen any different colors used. With the engine light, you can run your diagnostic codes, or engine codes by connecting TE and E1 in your "Check Connector" near the igniter. When you turn your ignition on, your light will flash codes. Here is a link for your Diagnostic Codes

Speed Sensor
The Speed Sensor wire, green with gray strip, comes from the Spedometer from your instrument cluster. This is how the ECU knows how fast your are going. I have noted, that connecting this wire will help with stalling. The wire etween the M1 connector and the ECU is pink, but the wire between the M1 connector and the Spedometer could be a range of colors. Refer to your vehicles electrical schematic to figure this out(EFI ONLY).

Tachometer
The Tach wire, black wire, does NOT come from the ECU, and it does NOT go to the ECU. A signal wire goes directly
from the igniter to your tach guage. You can also test this signal from the IG- terminal in the "Check Connector" near the igniter. And again, here is a link for the 3VZE tach mod.

Originally Posted by ScottyC

He can't with the 3" springs. In fact, he needs to mount it 1/4" back of the front crossmember for a decent shackle angle and to have the tie rod and draglink clear each other on compression. Otherwise he'll be having to move the steering box forward.

I have all of these lifts down to a science at this point.
3" springs: 1/4" in back of the frame. Push the frame tube jig all the way forward in the body mount.
4" Springs 1/2" in front. Center the frame tube jib in the body mount
5" springs 3/4" in front. Center the frame tube jib in the body mount

Originally Posted by GRMhick

As someone who is always building 4wd vehicles, its nice to know leaf spring dimensions, to see what will and will not work in certain projects.

I'm trying to compile as much leaf spring information as possible. Please post up any specifications you may know. Right now the best website out there for this information is DRM's side: 4x4spot.com

79-88 Toyota 4wd Rear 20.5/27.5 long 2 3/8" wide 18mm/18mm or 14mm/18mm spring eyes.

88-98 Chevrolet/GMC 1500 31.5/31.5 long 2 1/2" wide .5625/.5625 spring eyes. Centered eyes.

61.5" Deaver Rear Springs 27.5/34" long 2 1/2" wide .5625/.5625 or .75/.75 spring eyes. Front reverse eye, rear centered eye.

Marlin/Trail Gear/All Pro front springs: 21/26" 2 3/8" wide 18mm/18mm bolt size.

Marlin/Trail Gear/All Pro Rear Springs: 27.5/29" 2 3/8" wide 18mm/18mm bolt size

All Pro 05+ 1.5" rear springs 55 1/2 OAL , 27 3/8 Pin to Front , 28 1/2 pin to rear .

Wrangler YJ: 22.5/22.5 2 1/2" wide

Stock Toyota Front: 22.5/22.5 2/ 3/8" wide 18mm/18mm bolt size

Originally Posted by Mr Stubs

I hate the top two bolts on the tranny so I cut two holes in the cab for easy access. I will have to find a 1" plug for the holes now. This may not be a good mod for those who want to keep a lot of the dash stuff though.

Originally Posted by ford_n_toy

My truck has been with out bump stops and a fresh coat of paint:p after the new axle install for too many trips. So before I head out to Pismo to put a hole in my oil pan I thought I would put on some bumps. Been toying with the idea of air bumps for along time now, but not sure if I am going to tube the front of my truck out yet when putting in the new LQ4, stay tuned, so putting all the work into mounting cans correctly is a wast of time rite now

A lot of guys in my club run Bravada bumps and swear by them.




So I decided that I would head to the junk yard and find some Bravada bumps. They are super easy to pull, only bolt holding them on, and the "bump can" and bump and be easily separated to get to the bolt easier. the bump just pops into the can, also if you tear one, you just pop in new rubber. So while cruzing the JY I came across a Nissan Pathfinder and it had these perfect bumps, SUPER SOFT, I mean really soft. because of the huge holes in the pattern. So wanting to try something different I pulled them and put them on the truck hour before we left.






I was going to cut the factory mount and make my own to fit the curve of the frame, but the factory lean on the mount worked great for where my axle is( about 8-9" forward of stock).



They work awesome, really progressive, and can take a hard hit, have 5 1/2" of up travel, and these worked perfect for HARD bottom outs and jumps. I think they are better then Bravada bumps performance wise. but if i tear one, it will be PITA to fix rather then "just pop a new rubber on":grinpimp:

either way you go they are both great option for a cheap factory bump that's better then any of the poly after market ones I have used or seen used.

Originally Posted by phildelfino

For your tips and tricks, fix it thread to save yota info.

Here is a link for inexpensive paint jobs. I forgot I had it till these guys starting posting about their wishes for cheapo paint jobs. It is very informative. It is very long, about 50 pages. Everyone asks questions, gets responses, gives tips. It is the link that inspired me to go ahead and try to paint my 4 Runner.

I still would like to try to get Tremclad Paint for this, instead of using Rustoleum. I think it's just a little better and more forgiving, from what I read in this link.

Believe it or not, there are 3 such links, each of about 50 pages.

Phil

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Originally Posted by MedicDB

Harbor freight makes crappy pitman arm pullers.

Since My truck was down and i could not go get another puller I fixed the crappy HF one.

And it worked!:

Originally Posted by crash

I figured I would post this to give some guys some ideas for adding in aftermarket seats.

This is a rig I am almost done with. My buddy had purchased it and it needed some work. He found it was over his head so he dropping it off at the shop for me to fix. I am just getting it trail worthly.

In any case it only had a bent up POS driver seat (wasn't even bolted in when he got it). So he had purchased a pair of APC buckets with sliders for adjustment.

So first was remove the seat and make room to work.



So for the front portion of the mount I used some angle material (2x2) and drilled the holes in such that when bolted down it snugged up hard against that portion of the body. The outboard strip was easy since the rear outboard hole was pretty close to inline with the front and I also made it at a 5 degree slope.

Originally Posted by crash

The inboard strip is a little tougher. The rear inboard hole is not inline with the front and the strip needs to be paralell with the outbaord strip due to how the seat has to mount. The floor pan has a slope right below the strip so a bolt in the center won't work due to the angle. I also didn't wan't a mounting tab next to the strip due to strength issues. So here is what I came up with.







As you can see, the upper bolt is the stock seat hole and the lower one is off to an angle but will work for what it needs to do.



This lets the strip land right in the middle of the part I made and puts it within 1/8" of being paralell to the outboard strip which works perfect.

So tached things into place, removed and welded them all together and then test fitted it.

Originally Posted by crash

So once test fitted I mocked them against the seat tracks and drilled the seat track mounting holes.





I also decided to add gussets to the rear inboard mount

Originally Posted by crash

Threw them in and bolted them to the floor...







Hopefully this will give some guys who want to run an aftermarket seat some ideas