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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 16
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Looking for pics
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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no drop as far as i know of , they cut the knuckles of and rotate them
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1981, 22r, comp cam 280, weber 38, stage 1 porting,31" toyo mud. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Suisun City, California
Posts: 351
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I would take it to a alignment shop to determine the degree of the shim you need. Then buy the shim and install it into your spring pack. I run 37s with 4 inches suspension lift. I have a 1" drop hanger and 5.5 shackles and have no need for a shim. My springs are close to flat which is very similar to how the stock springs are. Basically the more arch you have in your spring bigger shim.
As for the transfer case most people lift them with a body lift to give the truck a flat belly, I have not heard of anyone lowering them.
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1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 1,667
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Here is a pic from (pg 7) my build thread that is linked in my sig. At the time I posted it I was concerned about the angle as well. OTOH I also figured it was from a TG kit that is pretty much a cookie cutter set up. There are likely thousands of others out there that are not reporting problems. Since then I have left it as is and wheeled a few times without issue.
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86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/ |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: injured and stateside :(
Posts: 1,396
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If you have drive line vibes from the driveline angle being extreme. You can ditch the double cardan joint cv at the t-case and go to a single like what is in the rear of your truck. Or put a crawler box in to pust the t-case back 6 3/8 to 6 1/2 inches. Plus you can push the axle forward but this my require moving steering bow too. You can cut and rotate the ends like mentioned above, will help point the third out of harms way.
Seems I read someplace that front drive line issues start to showup with more than 4" of front lift. I'm going to SAS before to long and wonder if I'll have issues too. 4crawler has a good write up about drive lines and overcoming problems http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Measurements Hope this helps, have only read up on the subject.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 16
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Thank you all for the info, I might look into getting rid of the CV design and go with the U joint. I have a 7 inch superlift and my springs are no where near flat, so im guessing thats not helping much. I just bought the truck so im anxious to get it out and test her capabilities.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 16
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![]() thats how mine looks now. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 4,711
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a High Pinion front diff will also help your front pinion angle...
adding a second TC helped mine
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~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread **TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS**
GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others |
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