horn buttons in steering column
03-11-2013, 03:16 AM
#21
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03-11-2013, 04:08 AM
#22
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Very likely to be the same problem...failing spring that pushes the contact up onto the contact ring. If true, you can shim the contact ring like I describe above (post number 11), or extend the contact pin like Terrys87 did (post 13), or do both for even better contact. Also clean it and apply dielectric grease to make it a permanent fix. You might want to clean the post before slipping the brass .22 casing over it. Maybe clean the casing and put a drop of dielectric grease down into it as well. Overkill, possibly, but there's nothing worse than fixing something twice!
03-12-2013, 07:08 PM
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i have the exact same thing and its the pin is worn and possably the P/O bent the contact ring up between the screws to make some sort of contact... at least thats why mine does it. im going to try the .22 shell when i get a chance.
10-15-2016, 11:45 AM
#25
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As usual, y'all came thru for me in solving my "current" issue with my truck. Horn slowly deteriorated and then just quit working! I followed this thread as well as a couple others in yotatech to solve my problem.
I didn't try the .22 casing. I did try putting some washers under the screws to bring the brass ring closer to the pin. That kinda warped my ring, so I flattened it bk out and tried something different.
I cut a cork gasket of decent thickness to match the brass ring (hopefully to offer some support so I didn't warp it further), and put the gasket under the brass ring. I reassembled, verified that the contact pin was actually in contact with the brass ring and being careful not to tighten to the point of warping the brass ring again, put the steering cover bk on and tested my horn. I also started my truck and turned the steering wheel from side to side, to ensure that the contact was maintained as the wheel turned....success! Thanks for the great pics and the great advice (again and again and again)!
I didn't try the .22 casing. I did try putting some washers under the screws to bring the brass ring closer to the pin. That kinda warped my ring, so I flattened it bk out and tried something different.
I cut a cork gasket of decent thickness to match the brass ring (hopefully to offer some support so I didn't warp it further), and put the gasket under the brass ring. I reassembled, verified that the contact pin was actually in contact with the brass ring and being careful not to tighten to the point of warping the brass ring again, put the steering cover bk on and tested my horn. I also started my truck and turned the steering wheel from side to side, to ensure that the contact was maintained as the wheel turned....success! Thanks for the great pics and the great advice (again and again and again)!
01-31-2017, 05:16 AM
#26
Switched ground, will show the noload voltage drop when testing at switch
My horn is not working. I have the two spoke steering wheel with a rectangle center with two buttons. Pulled the cover off and measured to voltage where the button contacts the plate thing. I only get 8V but my battery reads 12V. Not sure what to do with this voltage drop. I don't know if I need to pull my whole middle piece out and stack washers behind it like you did or not.
It is the ground wire for the horn circuit, however it should have a voltage reading. The difference between battery voltage and line voltage at the switch is due to the resistance of the horn which is up stream of the switch.
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