Originally Posted by rowdy235

Okay, first a bit of background. When I bought my truck, I noticed the rear side-marker lights did not come on. I assumed they were reflectors, but soon found out otherwise. The front ones worked fine, so I didn't worry about it.

Fast forward to Saturday- I found out the front left marker bulb was out. I remove the lens and boom! the whole assembly just crumbles right there in my hands. As with most things like this I thought (in this order)
Crap!
I am so stupid
How can I fix it.

So I called up the local napa and asked about replacements. When I was quoted $26.99 a piece I quickly decided I could do it better.

So a trip to napa later brought back 4 generic clearance lights ($.99!), some connector to connect the lights, and some heatshrink. To mount the lights, I simply drilled holes in the back and ran the screws backward. That was fine for the back, where I can get behind the lights, but on the front I had to drill through the light assembly to mount it.

Overall it turned out to be IMO better than stock and a heck of a lot cheaper, I even have 2 spares behind the seat! Also they are quite a bit brighter.

Originally Posted by 84YotaBuck

Through my floor that is. Pulled up my carpet cause it's been wet and look what I find, after I chopped the worst of the rust out. Any recommendations on size of metal to use to patch it. Was thinking 1/16", maybe I'll go 1/8", never patched a floor before, this ought to be fun, can't be worse than patching my frame.

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

chip out all the sound deadening material..more than you already have...it likes to catch fire

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

You don't need anything thicker than 1/8" as that body metal is like 20-28 gauge at the most.

Make the patch plate bigger than the area it needs to fill and make holes in it around the edges and rosette weld it in instead of trying to butt weld it. It will be much easier and much stronger.

All the pics are here: http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm

This is a hole


Notice the weld rosettes all around outside




Here is how it looked inside


Pictures of both sides done at the same time, but you get the idea.

Fill up the seams with seam sealer, hit it with some Rustoleum inside and out, 3M undercoating on the outside, done.

Originally Posted by gnob

just re adding this info.
if you have this flasher this mod works by removing the lamp faiure circuit.

BTW if you want add the resistor, then you will need a 6 ohm - 50 Watt resistor like this: http://superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html (bottom of page)


It sounds like the 3rd gen trucks have a IC (Intergrated Circuit), then its going to take a bit of work to figure it out, but it shouldn't be that hard. just find the model number on the IC and run it through the search here ( http://www.atmel.com ) or symiliar web site. Then by looking at the info you can determine that the lamp failure detection is controled by pin #7. Follow that on the ciruit board to a 'trace' that can be cut. Just like they did on this web site: http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles...r/flasher.html please note that these images are for the IC used on a 98-00 TJ.....NOT a Toyota - but it could be the same one.

Originally Posted by OregonYO

Heres my writeup covering which resistor I used.
Been working on some lighting.
Found these 2" LED running lights for $6 ea with about $5 shipping.

So With a little research I found voltage or amps, not sure which, are
controlled by resistors to keep LED from being over powered and burning out.
I calculated LED resistors for 24 volts, so at 12 volts they only get 1/2 the juice, which makes them opperate at 1/2 brightness for tail lights and normal full brightness for brakes.

Next prob is hooking 2 wires(brake, tail) to one lead of a normal running light. When the brakes are on it back feeds and lights the dash lights. So using a diode on the brake wire fixs this.
Because diodes opperate like a one way valve, Only allows current one way.

One apparent prob with leds is lack of amp draw to opperate the turn signal flasher correctly,with a larger resistor wired across the +/- leads of the running lights, this is fixed.

Heres my home made Brake, Tail, and Turns.
Wires were soldered to the wires comming from the circut board.
The 330 Ohm for tails
The 1 Amp 600V diode for brakes
The 10 Ohm 10 Watt res for turns.

Originally Posted by OregonYO

Originally Posted by Ilovemountains

All parts were sourced from AutoZone:

1. Lower radiator hose, part # M-137 $13.99
2. Upper radiator hose, part #S-249 $9.99
3. Engine to "pipe" elbow part # S-361 $9.99
4. Heater hose, engine "pipe" to drivers side fender coupler, S shaped part# 63089 $16.99
5. Short heater hose from the lower side of the heater valve to the left heater core inlet with 90 degree bend to firewall,part # M-4106 $14.36 trim the excess off and use it to replace the bypass hose from the upper side of the heater valve back to the inlet on the engine below the intake.
6. 3’ of universal 5/8” heater hose from the drivers side fender coupler to the right side heater core inlet.
7. Thermostat, 180 degree part #15868 $ 9.99
8. Thermostat gasket is part #35239 $1.99.
9. Radiator Cap, 13psi lever release part # 7713 $5.99
10. Radiator Cap, 13psi standard part# 7013
11. 10 pack 7/16” to 29/32” stainless steel clamps from Lowes
12. 6 1/16” to 2” stainless steel clamps from Lowes

Originally Posted by TOYOTAPARTS

Pretty common symptom when an early input is used. The input from a 79 or 80 t case has an input that is not good to use unless you grind it down or replace it. Here is a pic of the one you want grind on or stay away from.

Originally Posted by BigMike

Check Dave's picture above. All inputs are tapered at the end, but the inputs found behind a L43 4-speed (20R applications only) have an enlarged spline collar that mates with the fully splined transmission output coupler. When the next-generation L-series transmissions were introduced (L45/50/52), the output coupler was redesigned with a 1/2" counterbore (with no splines). This helps the transfer case input shaft find the transmission output coupler during assembly on the production line.

Toyota was probably damaging transmission output seals with that enlarged spline collar and were looking for a way to improve the design. We believe the 2nd generation 21-spline inputs are made from better metal therefore the strength of the splines were no longer needed, however we have not proved this theory. Another theory could be that Toyota wanted to include a "fuse" in the drivetrain.

Here is a picture of the L43-style transfer case input I installed behind a Marlin Crawler W56A-HD 5-spd trans:

Originally Posted by toyospearo

Anyone in this crowd give me some help??
I am perplexed! Could someone with factory bucket seats in a 1st gen tell me if they come forward, recline forward?? I can't find the handle to save my life.
Also, what is the deal with the heater. When it is on high it only blows on the window and the floor. Does the heat blow on the driver and passenger directly? I know older VW models they only blew on the window and floor.

Originally Posted by suncomb1

Late 1982 and 1983 1st generation SR5 trucks had tilt back and flip forward bucket seats. The handle was located near the lower seat cushion / back cushion junction on the outside seat base; you lifted the handle up to make the desired adjustment. The forward / rear adjustment was under the front portion of the seat I think on the inboard side. Earlier bucket seats and most non SR5 trucks did not have the rear cushion tilt feature.

I do not know what year truck you have or whether you have AC but there are three levers on a 1982 & 1983. One controls outside inside air select, one controls temperature, and one controls the floor, windshield, center vent, etc. You should check your operating cables on the heater unit to see if they move when you move the levers.

Originally Posted by Al's Chop Shop

the vents on the drivers and passengers sides (near the doors) will always blow in fresh outiside air.

its stupid, and it sucks.


Al

Originally Posted by toyospearo

Thanks AL!!
Thats exactly what I needed to know. I was wondering if something was disconnected under there but you answered it. Saves me an afternoon of tearing that thing apart.
Thanks man!

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

I have a 1989 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto trans that I am in the middle of building up for as a trail/expedition type rig. I just added an ARB bumper and PIAA driving lights. The PIAA switch was kind of hokey, a push button thing that you stick to the dash. The dash panel area to the left of the steering column has been an area that I have been eyeing for a while.

Since I have an auto rig, I do not have a clutch cancel button over there, just a filler plate in that hole. I did some looking around and found some Euro style rocker switches from Daystar on Summit Racing. I then found them on Amazon.com for way cheaper. After receiving the switches I saw that they were actually made by Carling Technologies, so, I cruised on over to their website. They are a large switch manufacturer for the OEM's and marine industry. They also make a 3 gang switch panel insert for their Contura II line of swtiches, which is what the Daystar swtiches are. So, I ordered that panel up from Digi-Key, an electronics supply house that I use at work.

The swtiches are quality units, 20 amp rated, on/off with an LED light when they are on. Overkill for what I am doing, as am running everything off of relays, but they are just so nice, had to have them.

Pictures of the switches and panel:








The panel requires a 1.90 x 3.05 " cutout. This is a perfect fit width wise and just a bit tight on height for the area next to the column. I started with the clutch cancel cutout as the reference in the upper left corner. I then cut sideways along the top and down along the left. I used a piece of a hacksaw balde mounted in my hand drywall saw, slow and careful. I also cut it undersize and then filed it out to size with a rasp. I used digital calipers and straight edges to verify I was getting everything square and level. It took about 1/2 hour to cut the opening and file it to size.

Pictures of the opening:







The panel just pops right in. It fits varying thicknesses of material with it's barbed retention fingers. It is also fairly easy to remove, just push on the fingers from the back with a flat blade screwdriver and work your way around, it will slowly work it's way out.

The switches pop into the bezel with their own barbed wings. They are also easy to take back out with flat blade screwdriver.

Pictures of the switches installed in the dash panel:








I did have to hack one small bracket in the dash to clear the switches. It is plastic and was a quick mod with the hacksaw blade. Also, the screw that attaches the dash panel to this bracket should be cut down to minimum length. Otherwise it hits the switch bezel insert.




And here is the finished install. Very clean, almost looks factory.










Now I need to wire in the driving lights and install my LED backup lights. The third switch is going to be for fog lights, at some point.

P/N's and links:

Switches: Daystar KU80012 , also offered in red, blue, and amber.
Carling Technologies Contura II switch family.
Amazon.com: $10.95 each, free shipping over $25

Bezel: Carling Technologies VM3-01
Digi-key P/N: 432-1107-ND ($5 Plus Shipping)
Carling also makes a six gang and a modular panel system
with end caps and a center section, dovetails together.

Links

Daystar:

http://daystarweb.com

Carling Technologies:

http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.c...switch__19.asp

Amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KU8001...2381336&sr=8-1

Digi-Key:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=432-1107-ND

Originally Posted by -Jake-

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780

this is straight from the faq:

Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numers, 79-85 front axle:
Toyota #90366-17001-77
KOYO 30303D
SKF part# 30303j2