Pumpkinyota

No, this still has an EGR, as well as a smog pump. This diagram is still for a smogged vehicle. This also has some extraneous parts, such as the HAC, AAP, and BVSV. These may be useful to you, or totally useless complication, depending on your situation and skill.

Pumpkinyota

Oops, I lied, the iPhone app showed me the wrong picture at first. Yes, that diagram is pretty close to what I lay out. Good luck!

marsk5

Sweet thanks for all the help

Hxckid213

very helpful. im halfway done. got everything cap"d off next the plates.

do anyone have a nice clear pic of the air/smog pump bolts? i don't have a belt going to it so might as well yank it off.

79CoronaWag

I'm a newbee, just found this thread after spending the day trying to figure out the vacuume disaster under the hood of our new 1979 Corona Wagon with a 20R. I read all 9 pages but got lost in the weeds. Looks like someone did a poor job of a desmog on our car and now I'm trying to get it functional. Engine runs really rough, most of the egr stuff isn't plugged in. I'm trying to figure out exactly what IS needed and where to start. I've got lots of pics and would be glad to help make a tech sheet, videos, or something to walk folks though. Anyone willing to help me ?

Thanks,
79CoronaWag

Link to new photo album trying to log all parts, fixes, mods, upgrades.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1060191...eat=directlink

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Corona, look at my engine rebuild thread. Everything you see on my motor is all you need. You'll have to get some block off plates from LCE (again, read my build thread and it'll tell you what plates to get). All the plates will probably run you about $80 shipped. The 20R is pretty much the same as a 22R in regards to desmogging. The first (and perhaps scare feeling) things to do is yank every single vacuum hose under the hood and anything with a vacuum hose attached to it (EGR, VSC, vacuum switches, exhaust return, etc). If it is attached to the block then that's where you need the block off playes. You should be left with the carb and distributor.

Next, run your vacuum advance from the distributor to the carb (if you have 2 vacuum advances on your distributor then let me know and I'll tell where each one goes). If you removed all the smog equipment and used block off plates for each then you won't have to plug any vacuum ports except for the unused ones on the intake manifold.

After desmogging your timing will be way off so you'll have to retime it and adjust your carb.

Voila, you're desmogged!!

Pictures may help too. Use paint and circle the things you aren't sure of and I'll let you know if you can remove it. My answer will probably be yes.

Oh and you might want to consider getting a weber carb, especially if you aren't very carb savvy. It's easier to adjust and will be the best $280 you spend on your car!

Good luck and let me know if you need anything.

magentawave

I spoke to a guy who has had a carburator rebuilding business in San Diego for 25 years and h e told me that de-smogging a 22R will make it run bad and will lower your MPG. What is your experience?

Pumpkinyota

Nope, and nope. The stock USA federal version had minimal smog. The overseas, Mexico, and Canada versions were produced with no smog equipment from the factory.

Desmogging improperly, or incompletely, could have this result. Realistically, the EGR components in most of these trucks are so plugged up that they are effectively desmogged anyways. Because of the huge vacuum mess, you have a large potential for failure of related components failing and causing power loss through vacuum leaks. Desmog is a relevant option for some offroad users who don't want this risk. For those who operate on the highway, especially in states with stringent smog restrictions, knowing what you can simplify, and how to troubleshoot is valuable.

Pumpkinyota

And thanks to thetundrawolf for posting that Canada FSM pic, that got me doing a little more research on how this truck was produced outside of the US

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

To add to Pumkin's remarks, an engine needs very basic equipment and design to run. The extra smog stuff may have increased MPG initially, but eventually it becomes counter productive when it gets all clogged up. Even still, the EGR returns unburnt fumes to the intake to run through the engine again. Is this good or bad for the motor? Some may disagree with me, but I don't think that you could possibly see a lot of benefit from dropping dirty exhaust fumes back into your engine. If you replace those "dirty fumes" with clean, fresh fumes then you should see more power, but you won't necessarily get the MPG benefit from the recycled fumes. But then again, how much of a difference in MPG do you really think that makes?

Also, the Aisin carbs on these vehicles were designed for the system they are installed in. So removing the smog equipment may make the stock carb function as well. Slap a weber in there and you're in business. I was getting 19-22 MPG on my tired desmogged 22R with a weber before I rebuilt it.

thetundrawolf

I think that as long as one retains vacuum for the idle compensator diaphragm, the ignition (vaccuum advance), and breather related duties one should be fine for every day driving, IMO.

magentawave

I'm not a mechanic but I'm all about simplification so thats good to know and thank you.

My 1982 22R is a California vehicle but I'm going to have it titled and registered in South Dakota (no smog). Currently it won't start unless I spray starter fluid in the carb. Once its started and warmed up you can turn it off and start it again without using starter fluid even a couple hours later. I think the problem is because the vehicle sat for a long time without being started. I replaced the fuel filter and both fuel lines and that didn't fix it. I'm replacing the fuel pump next because maybe the diaphragm is bad. If it still requires starter fluid after that, then the next step (I think) is to rebuild the carb...but I'm getting quotes of $500.00 to rebuild it - aaargh!

So here are my questions please...

1) Do you think the instructions in this thread are clear and simple enough for a non-mechanic to de-smog an 82 California 22R?

2) If I need to rebuild the stock carburator...and I want to de-smog this, would I be better off buying a new Weber carburator?

3) Will a Weber on a de-smogged 22R give better MPG than the stock carb?

4) Do Webers bolt on without any serious modifications?

5) Are there any disadvantages for using a Weber over the stock carb?

Thanks again!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

To answer your questions:
1) Yes, don't be scared and get all the right block off plates from LCE
2) If you spend $500 on a carb rebuild then you clearly have too much money and should mail some to me! Get a Weber $280 - best money you'll ever spend on your truck.
3) Probably, but not really certain
4) Yes, really easy to install
5) Yes, you don't get the joy of trying to figure out how to adjust an Aisin carb anymore!

thetundrawolf

Yes. It is amazingly simple, in my opinion. I think the hardest thing to do would be to install a block off plate somewhere around the EGR.

Oops, I should say, that if you want to desmog your vehicle, then YES buy the Weber. But KEEP EVERY LAST SMOG ITEM in case your laws change! You will be sorry if you do not! I rebuilt my carb, and it was not a big deal. I got the good kit, it cost around $50. The *only* special tool you'll need is that special angle finding gauge. I had to wing it on mine, so I did not perform any of those adjustment. I had a facet fuel pump I had pump the carb full of water to determine the float height- but when I followed the directions included, and set it at something like .4~~ inches, it was perfect. $500 to rebuild a carb is pretty bad.

Can't answer that. Hopefully someone else will.

It did on my 1979 Chevy LUV 4x4 (Isuzu) and it wasn't even made for that truck. I would say, "Yes."

Honestly, the only issues I could see would be legal/ smog related. And, if you get one of those "Gauze" air filters, REMEMBER YOU MUST OIL IT FOR IT TO FUNCTION PROPERLY. Nothing like removing it to see a fine layer of dust on the inside of your carb. You can use the K&N charger kit, I think.

Pumpkinyota

Also, keep on mind: if you live in the US, there are smog laws. All 50 states. That is why you hear people talk about "federal emissions" and "50 state emissions". Just because there aren't smog checks in that state or county now, doesn't mean there won't be in the future.

Definitely go for the weber. You will notice a power difference. You will probably not do better on fuel mileage, maybe even slightly worse. You will still be happier.

You will need to re-time your motor after all of this as well.

Good luck!

Yota1fish2

good job on the form. it probably would of taken me 3 times as long

thetundrawolf

I need help. I just rebuilt my engine, and now have to smog it in California.

The vacuum mess is bad. I have an 82 PU (motorhome, actually).

I have (mostly) figured everything out, except for the high altitude spec circuit.

Here's a vacuum diagram, but it leaves out exactly where some of the items connect:



I managed to find an 82 Pu in a junk yard, and it is a CA model, but doesn't have the high altitude spec. It was manufactured February of 1981, and mine was manufactured August of 1981. Here is it's underhood vacuum diagram:



So, my main question is, on the VCV next to the HAC (In the top diagram, upper left hand corner) where does the middle line (It's mark S,X,Y, the middle line I need to know where it goes, is marked "X") go?

In this picture I am pointing to the VCV. Please, can anyone help me?

Pumpkinyota

My advice is to skip the hac until it is smogged. Why add potential complications? Go base minimum until it passes, then get fancy.

The diagram for federal smog is in this forum earlier, use that as your baseline. Cap off anything that is unused. See how close you do on a precheck at that point.

thetundrawolf

That seems like sound advice. Should I remove the brackets and the HAC/ VCV valves? If I don't, what's to stop them from failing the visual?

According to the blue diagram I got from the truck in the junkyard today, I have everything hooked up right. Right now only the HAC system is in question.

Pumpkinyota

The HAC is not a California requirement, what they will be looking for in the visual will be EGR, and possibly reed valve. You can remove hac and bracket if you like, but I doubt it will matter.