crimofnight

so i have an 82 toyota that i picked up when gas hit 4 bucks a gallon. its always had a front main leak and now the oil pan busted. how much am i looking at in getting this fixed. i have another oil pan i picked up from a salvaged 82 i found but i have no idea how to replace it.

olharleyman

Should be no bad deal just remove the bolts and you may have to wiggle it around a bit to get the old one out and repeat to install

crimofnight

so just unbolt and rebolt nothing more?

bigt

yeah the rear main seal is pretty much a clutch jon.. so its quite involved but ive done it and im no master mechanic!

but if you dont have garage tools and a daily driver might not be a good idea but will prolly cost close to a grand for a shop todo it and they will prolly want to do the clutch

crimofnight

its my front main though

bigt

o snap front main..
well you would still need some tools and a fsm and would GIVER!

andtheman1988

Dont froget to get a new oil pan gasket when installing the new one.

crimofnight

ok bigt didnt understand wat you meant, and a gasket? gotta remeber i know nothing about mechanices but im trying to learn by fixing up my old vehicles

andtheman1988

When your put your new oil pan on be sure get buy a new gasket for it from Napa or Advance.

rowdy235

A thousand dollars for a shop to do it sounds a bit high. The toyota dealer quoted me 500 for the front main and timing chain cover gasket. A shop (not dealer) should be able to do it for $300. (YES, I Know he said Oil Pan, it should be about the same amount of work) If you do do it yourself, take your time and mark everything.

blackspyder

Front Main Seals can be done alone if need be. but I would suggest doing the whole Timing cover water pump and oil pump while you're at it (all comes in one kit). Since you haven't been in the motor yet now is a great ime to check the timing chain and guides (make sure its fairly tight and that the gudes are still in one piece)
do not forget the timing chain cover bolt under the distributer

Oil Pan un-bolt, install new, bolt back up. (if it isnt cracked you can flex it back out and reuse the old pan using a hammer and block of wood, not suggested but possible) best done when doing the timing chain cover (2 bolts go in to the TCC)

Total time 5-6 hrs for beginners who are meticulous cleaners
Level of difficulty Not really hard but watch bolt lengths on the TCC

crimofnight

300 sounds reasonable, i had been just lettin my truck gather dust tll i got the spare change but we got stuck in a wash in my friends ford (ya a ford) and i just thought my truck never did this to me and ive been wanting to drive it since

brooklee1000

Front main seal can be bought alone for like under $5. Easy to do! Remove alternator belt, undo front main pulley bolt(18mm i think), pull out pulley(may take some careful tapping with hammer), remove old seal, GREASE or oil new seal, install STRAIGHT, then re-install everything back the way it was. Done mine in an hour. You may need to drain some engine oil too before starting.
Blackspyder suggests doing the t-chain, water pump, and oil pump at the same time. Don't understand why. Main crank seal can be accessed as above, and taking all that other stuff apart requires ALOT more work. And more parts (w-pump gasket, oil pump gasket). If those aren't leaking, why touch them? I have an electric fan, you likely have mechanical. you might need to take off the water pump(to get the fan off) to get the main pulley out, but i don't think so.
Oil pan, very easy--drop oil, undo all bolts on pan, pry with screw driver--will be sticky to get off,remove all old gasket material with a scraper, I use gasket maker sylicone to re-install with new gasket for insurance, bolt back in, let sit for a few hours(not necessary, but sylicone needs to set) fill with oil, drive. Can be done in less than 2 hours.

There is a trick to getting off that main crank bolt. Put the socket on it with a long breaker bar, try to get it under the frame and as close as you can(crank spins clockwise, so passenger side), make sure noone is near it!!!then TAP the starter(REMOVE COIL WIRE so it can't start).

BTW-new to wrenching on your wheels, get a Haynes manual. Tells you how to do all this stuff, and has pictures. And use anti-seize compound on everything you may take apart again in the future. Makes it way easier.

brooklee1000

And check out this thread for helpful information on many subjects.

http://www.barneymc.com/TOY_ROOT/TECHNEEK/top_neek.htm

blackspyder

Why I dont suggest doing just a main seal instead of buying the T-Chain Cover Kit ($14 bought 3 in the 6 months I've owned a toyota) because better to spend the extra $7-8 now and check the T-chain than be a few weeks down the road bust a T-Chain because you wanted to save a few bucks. and since the T-Chain Cover kit comes with the water pump and oil pump gaskets why the (blank) would you not change them it takes less than 2 minutes to do both.

Sorry fail to see where taking a little extra time to ensure the T-chain is in good shape is a bad idea.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, You sure as (blank) don't have time to do it a second time

83

Difference of opinion. If I were brand new to wrenching...well a timing chain is NOT the first thing I'd want to tackle. I'd change oil, plugs wires cap & rotor then maybe move on to alternator, starter etc.

Of course on a truck this old if the front seal is leaking then probably it's time for a lot of other stuff to start going, so if it were any of us we may decide to do the chain, water & oil pumps, maybe even head gasket. But for someone who's just figuring out how to replace the oil pan, maybe take it one thing at a time and just replace the easy stuff that you know is bad.

Seriously though crimofnight unless you've got a lot of money, if you're going to be driving an '82 pickup, you aught to start learning how to fix it. They're great trucks, but they're moving towards 30 years old. You're going to run into things needing fixing or adjusting or tightening or lubing fairling often.
At least get a Haynes manual, but get a Factory Service Manual if you can find one. (Let me know if you find two!!!)

85TurboRunner

Changing out the front seal is no biggy, replacing the pan isn't a problem either.
Paying $300 to have somebody do it for you is insane.

If the truck isn't your daily driver then I say just take your time and do it yourself. Get a Haynes manual and you should be fine. People are always saying get the FSM but IMO it isn't really needed for small jobs like that. Unless you can find one cheap.

When I got my first yota around 7 yrs ago I didn't know anything about them but I jumped in head first anyway, my first repair being the timing chain and head gasket.

These trucks are very easy to work on. To change out the front seal all you need to do is remove the belts, take off the crank pulley and pull the seal, super easy. Be sure to check the surface of the pulley where it contacts the seal for grooves. If it is badly grooved which it most likely will be you'll need to get a sleeve for it. Pulling the Rad. will also make it even easier but its not necessary.

As for the pan just take out the bolts pull the pan, clean up the mating surfaces and replace. Now if I'm not mistaken Toyota never put a pan gasket on the 22r or re for that matter but they used gasket maker. You can find gaskets for them but if Toyota didn't feel they needed them then I don't either.

I'm also of the opinion if it ain't broke don't fix it. If when you pull the pan there aren't chunks of plastic in it then your timing guides are fine so I'd leave well enough alone. Your chain won't break like someone said above, well its very uncommon at the least, they stretch but don't usually break. And if your water pump is working and the timing cover isn't leaking then why work on it?

stagger_lee

I always take pictures of it before I unbolt it and as I go. Then you have pics guiding you through the install. You can do it yourself! Don't pay some shop to do it half-a$$.

83

That's a good point about checking the old oil pan while you've got it out for plastic pieces. If there are no pieces, and you don't hear the timing chain hitting the cover when the engine's running, then I wouldn't worry about it yet, either. The chain likely won't break (although it does happen), it will just eventually stretch to the point where it breaks the chain guides, then starts wearing a hole through the timing cover, and if it goes long enough it will either jump a few teeth on the crank or cam, or wear all the way through the cover and dump coolant into your engine, and coolant is not a good lubricant, so goodbye engine.

The '79-83 oil pans used a cork gasket. Apparently it sucks. BUT, there is a raised ridge on the pan surface which makes using silicone gasket stuff tricky. I've done my pan twice now with RTV black and still have some leaking, but then those two times were my first so it could be partially user error. Apparently (and crimofnight I'd check into this while you're at it) the fix is to get an oil pan from a '84 or '85 22R. These don't have the ridge, are meant to be sealed with RTV, and are still a perfect fit for the earlier 22R engines. I'll be looking for one soon.

What you feel comfortable doing on your truck is up to you. Some people do have more natural ability with this stuff. For me it helps to have somebody there showing me how to do something the first time, then I'm good. There are some people out there making their living as mechanics who will always be piss poor at working on vehicles...for a lot of us on this site it's been the run-ins with those people that have convinced us that working on our own vehicles is the best way, or at least (for me), when we contract stuff out, it's only with very trusted, proven mechanics.

Island_Yota

Haynes/Chilton repair manual, $15-$20
Oil, around $25 with a filter
Coolant, re-use it if its clean, you have to pull the rad to do the Front main, makes things WAY easier.
Front Main seal was like $10
Pulley Sleeve was $25
Accessory belt, re-use it if its good cause they aren't cheap, $45.

no idea on the oilpan/gasket, I could find a pan for free and the gasket is what, $15? If your paying someone to do this its going to cost you because its a good 4-5 hours of work said and done + parts will cost more, call around for quotes atleast if you dont know how to read a repair manual or dont have tools.

Worst part of the job is getting the crank bolt off, my 1/2 impact didn't come close but I finally got it after lots of swearing, still almost sharted trying to undo it with a 3ft breaker bar, had the truck in 5th gear, 4hi and chocked the tires and it was driving up the chocks from how hard I was prying on the bolt. Some people use the starter and a breaker bar against the ground to undo it but I didn't feel like stripping teeth off my flywheel, people say it works though.