irv

In my 22r I have to give the gas pedal 2 quick pumps before starting (unless the engine is already warm from recently running). Otherwise it will not start well. To my very basic understanding, this primes the carburetor with a little gas and puts the motor in a higher idle mode. If I tap the gas pedal again, while idling, the motor disengages from this high idle mode and drops down to a normal rpm idle.

If I were to install a manual choke weber - how would it effect my current starting procedure? Would it still behave as I've described above?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

The instead of pumping the gas to engage the choke, you would simply pull the manual choke knob

woodyth

iTrader: (1)

Wheren did you get your valve cover from? Mine is an 87 22r but I really like that style!
Thanks for the writeup!!! Especially about where the distrubutor vacuum lines go!

Bingle

That's an early style 22R valve cover, pre 85 I belive (not sure what year they changed). Same I have on my '81 except he cleaned and painted his.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Bingle is right, it's the original valve cover that I media blasted and repainted (filed down the raised letters after it was painted). I do not believe that you can put the older style valve covers on your motor - I think that I recall the rocker assembly being taller on the later motors so if you put the earlier one on there you'll probably bash your rockers on the cover. Even on the early 22R motors, if you over tighten the valve cover you'll get some rocker contact. There just isn't much clearance under there to begin with.

I'm actually thinking about stripping the valve cover back down and powdercoating it. I just bought a powdercoating kit from Eastwood and did my aisin hub dials tonight. They turned out really nice (see my build thread below)

kottunmewth

I did a recent rebuild on my 22r,while i had it out I fabed up the cross over plate on the back of the head with a piece of half inch aluminum plate,used the oem gasket to put it on and left the triangle plate on the side off. I just didnt see a need in it with the plate on the back of the head. I did not block off the water ports,the one on the passenger side back side of the timing cover (coolant bypass tube)or the one on the side of the head between the intake ports.The driver side already had a plate on it. I also blocked off the ports on the exhaust manifold were the smog tubes were attached with 1/4" pieces of plate.

Its my understanding that leaving the coolant bypass tube and plumbing it into the bottom of the intake manifold or even plumbing it into the side of the head helps promote water circulation with in the engine. I left it alone and put the coolant bypass tube from the timing cover into the bottom of the intake manifold, probably not the best place,and plumbed the tube on the side of the engine going to the heater core.

I also blocked of the EGR port on the intake with a plate from the 1/4" steel while I was at it. I think I spent some think like 3-4 hours total on fab to get all 4 plates done using a hand drill, a drimell and a cut off wheel on a 41/2" angle grinder. I personally would not pay for those block off plates,there easy to fab urself.

I do have a question thought, when I put it all together, set the timing,it was 31 degrees out using a digital timing light when I finally checked it.I set the timing by ear and the performance of the engine at first. I had the head shaved because it was warped, but other then that its got a 32/36 weber on it,its an older weber with the fuel fittings coming straight out instead of angled like ur carb. The guy at the machine shop said if it runs good then go with it. Nice write up,I started to do a write up on my build but was short on time and had to get it done.

If u know enough about engines then it not rocket science to de-smog an engine.Just take of the stuff that puts the bad stuff back in.

redhorsejack

I appreciate your response to egr crossover block plate question. One further question, I followed your process almost to the tee. I deviated slightly where money or materials dictated. I've not had my water plate off the the bottom of my intake. Is it neccesary to use LCE kit. I have ran it original condition. aAnd it seems ok. Just wondering if that was an aesthetic part or was there a mecahincal gain for doing this?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

It's mostly aesthetics and it eliminates the manifold heating unit that is housed on the underside of the intake manifold.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

NOTICE TO READERS:

Please post your questions regarding Desmogging in this thread. I have received numerous PM's asking the same questions over and over. I don't mind helping out, but if you post your questions here then we can answer them as a community and avoid repetition in my inbox. Thanks guys!

plowzilla

Yeah, you should forward this desmog link to them, maybe they will give some credit for parts!! I do have a question that I cannot find here or on your build up pages; I thought the small filter on the valve cover was to replace the pcv and hose. But after re-reading this thread several times, you did mention to keep keep the hose otherwise it could get messy on a mishap. So the filter is obviously not on the pcv and I forgot what was there. I would like to order one, probably from Summit since I am ordering the regulator and gauge, and I need to know if these filters are a universal fit or is there a special size I would need to order?
p.s. your build up is looking awesome!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I believe the PCV valve is a 5/8" fitting, but I'm not 100% sure.

1st Gen Crawler

Great write up!

i just have a few questions on finishing touches. Installed my Offy intake with weber 32/36, Holly 1-4psi regulator and gauge, ran fuel lines and a vacuum line to the Weber.

Since i swapped out the stock intake do i need to run the second vacuum line to the intake manifold? I have seen it done on some 22r desmogs but not all of them. I have the fitting and could pull the plug and swap it over if i need to.

Also do i need to keep the fuel return from the fuel pump? I have been told it gets removed with the Weber conversion, but i think that might only be the return on the stock carb.

How much am i going to need to adjust my timing once this is all put together?

kottunmewth

I only used the one vacume line on my distributor,And ran it from the ported vacume on the carb.If u dont u will wind up with ur timing advancing while at idle.I used the vacume fitting on the end(the one closes to the radiator) for my advance and put a cap on the other.It works great like this,just make sure ur distributor mechanical advance is free,Mine was frozen and caused problems.Im also running 5 degrees initial advance,mine did not like 0,and had to idle the carb up for the 5 degrees I gave it.

Good write up.

Bingle

Good call going with the Offy manifold, they're great, I lived mine when I had one. I'm not sure about the second vac line, mine was a single, but the timing should be the same as stock. If you have a timing light with an adjustable delay the timing with everything hooked up should be 8-10° at idle and 36° at ~3500 rpm (full advance). Then you know that your vac advance is functioning correctly. (I'm 98% sure on those #'s, they're at least within a couple degrees, chime in and correct me if someone knows for sure)

1st Gen Crawler

Thanks for the input. I get a cap and block that extra vacuum line. I used the fitting closest to the engine (not the radiator), so i will switch that over before i try to start it up for the first time.

Still need the fuel line question answered. I believe the center fitting on the fuel pump, after the fuel filter and before the regulator, is the return. Ill be hooking it up unless anybody says not to.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you cap a vacuum advance, you should cap the one closest to the valve cover since that is your idle advance but you might want to try using both and just using one to see if you motor likes one of the other.

As far as timing, it should be set at 5* BTDC with the vacuum advance cut or pinched at around 850 RPMs (per the FSM). With the the advance, you should be in the neightborhood of 8-12* BTDC at idle.

You're going to want to keep the fuel return. You're mechanical pump puts out about 8-12 PSI. With the weber, you're only using around 3.5 PSI. You want that extra pressure and volume to go somewhere or you'll be replacing fuel pumps Also, even with the fuel pressure regulator, your pressure can spike on the carb side of the regulator which can affect your carb's needle seat and and cause the carb run sporadically after idle. Do yourself a favor and keep the fuel return.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Well I contacted LCE Performance the other day through their website. I told them about this thread I created and the success I have had with their products. I also wanted to suggest making a complete desmog kit with all the block off plates, plugs, carb, fuel pressure regulator, etc included at one price so that it wasn't as confusing for guys new desmogging their trucks. I received a call from their sales manager (Wes) yesterday. We had a fairly lengthy conversation about the success and accuracy of this thread (He read through the entire thread prior to calling me). He liked the desmog kit idea and will be working with the engineering department on making that happen. He also asked my permission to include some of this thread in an upcoming monthly newsletter. I'm stoked to see that happen! And for directing business their way, he said to call him directly when I'm ready to make my next order so he can work me up a deal on my parts. That's just simply good business!!

Bottom line, LCE is legit. They may not always have the lowest prices, but they have the best parts, superior customer service and tons of Toyota knowledge. Keep an eye out for that newsletter. I'm sure that I'll have a post about about it as soon as it hits!

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Got another call from LCE today. They are offering a discount on all desmogging parts for the readers here. Enter discount code "DAVE" at checkout for some savings.

jdfording

Great thread and thank you for writing it. Couple questions though. If I install all these block off plates will I still have heat? The barb fitting under the manifold is for the heater hose is that all I need? My truck has the Weber 38 and on the front right bottom of the air filter plate there is a hole with a hose that the PO stuck a bolt into to block it off. Is there a better way off plugging this or does it need to be ran to something? My truck has auto choke. Can I still do this mod?

Just got the Holly fuel reg and the Mr Gasket gauge from Summit in the mail. Just waiting on engine parts to start my rebuild.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you can still run your heater core with this setup. You will run a 5/8" hose from the barb under the intake manifold to the heater core inlet and a 5/8" hose from the heater core outlet to the barb on the hard coolant hose on the driverside down near the motor mount. If you don't have that factory hard coolant hose setup then let me know, there are other options.

The base plate of the weber filter is annoying. That hole is there so you can run a hose to the breather on the front of the valve cover. Personally, I like using a breather filter on the valve cover. I haven't really devised a clever solution to cover that hole in the weber filter base plate. For now, I just went to Lowes and bought a rubber plug to stuff in it for now. Eventually I want to get the K&N filter adapter for my weber.

Auto choke will work with this, you just need to retain the sending units for the choke. I prefer the manual choke - there's just less to break and no electronics/sensors to rely on.