Dustydriver007

Good advice on the door handles, I would have never figured something like that to stick, but then again the truck has been idle for a long time. I drained all the fluids today and did not see any chunks in the oil so maybe it will be a pretty good truck to get back together. I have heard pro's and con's to the weber carb transition. Does anyone have their thoughts on this. All I have read is that the Weber 32/36 is the way to go, but like I have stated I am new at this and invite anyone's advice on the issue. If you have done the conversion and it works great please let me know. I am interested in what type of adapter plate you used and what problems you ran in too if any.

Dustydriver007

Luckily with this truck, my granpa bought the original service manuals from 1979 and I found them. It really is a blast from the past to see what they actually told you for that year. The original manuals basically tell you how to tear everything apart from the motor to anything else. Thank god for a grandpa that was auto inclined god bless his soul. I will admit though this forum is also a great help considering the truck has been sitting so long. I will post more photo's the longer I get into tearing it apart.

tditoyota

Hey 541SR5, where were you able to find a first gen factory service manual? I've done crazy searching on here and on the internet, but haven't been able to find anything for first gens. Maybe I've missed something.

1stgenboy

When I changed to the weber I noticed the promised gain in fuel economy and power (of course, you don't get both at the same moment). It made it impossible to climb hills that I could climb easily before. I would say that webers are great for two wheel drives, but because of the bowl is vented on them, I would not use one on a 4x4 again.

1stgenboy

541SR5

This is the one I downloaded. It'll say '85 on it, but the majority of the information will pertain to 79-83 trucks too the tranmission section is different).

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

I also used the Haynes manual that I got at the local auto parts store. Between the two manuals, I have plenty of information and references to work on my truck.

Dustydriver007

I hear so many good things about the Weber carbs. I am also glad to hear some bad stuff as well. Its a tough decision. One thing I may have trouble figuring out is where all the vacuum lines go again if I choose to put the original carb back on. I wasn't careful when I took it off and mark the lines like I should of. Probably a bad mistake on my part!

541SR5

I chose to go with the original carb and the dealership printed a diagram for me of how all the vacuum lines were originally run. If they won't give you one, let me know and I'll email you a PDF of the diagram I have.

jammin962

Vinegar is good for old rusty tanks, like old Briggs metal tanks that got all rusty... submerge them in a 5 gallon bucket of vinegar for about a week and then power wash (it will remove the exterior paint) You could fill your tank if need be but that's a lot of vinegar! Also a fist full of nuts and bolts shaken around in there is a nice abrasive to knock loose rust off the sides.

Like everyone else said, don't rush and check anything and everything that might rot or dry out from sitting for so long. Look for mouse nests and chewed wires.

Congrats on the truck, & thanks for getting another classic back on the road!

85RunnerSR5

nice truck! Good luck with it!

Dustydriver007

Good thing to note when pulling the gas tank out, make sure to first pull the drive line first. Makes it a lot easier. Of course by the time I figured this out, I already had the tank unbolted!

ConSeann3ry

Search around and you'll find this is a question that is never fully answered. Many people say they switch to the Weber and gain power and fuel economy. They are also switching from a used carb to a new carb with fresh tune so that might have something to do with it. Webers don't run as well on inclines, but there are mods (extend a vent, lower float level, plug some hole with jbweld) to make it work better, possibly as well, I don't know. I actually have both, and from the research I've done I've decided to just stick with the stock, if it isn't broke don't fix it. I also talked to a guy that works at the auto parts store that is running a weber and said it wasn't worth the switch. In my opinion, if you don't already have it, might as well not spend the money.

Dustydriver007

Good advice with the carb. The more and more I hear, it seems like maybe I will just clean up the original carb and stick with it. I fully disconnected it today to get a better look at it. I think it will clean up really nice. Maybe buy a carb kit and freshen it up a little and save my money on the Weber!

Dustydriver007

Thanks for that information, I will run down to the local dealership tommorow and see if I can get a diagram. That should help a lot.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On page 7 of my 79/83 restore I have it listed how I cleaned my tank and fuel filter in tank info.

toastyjosh

iTrader: (1)

Nice score!!!

Before you try to start that thing again, spray wd-40 or marvel M oil in to the the cylinders via the spark plug holes.
This will help free up the rings.
Great truck!!

Dustydriver007

Terrys87,
I spent quite a little while reading through your build thread, one heck of a good job. I think with this truck I got pretty lucky with a lot of things. I am also glad that I did not let it sit any longer before getting going on it. I am sure your thread will answer a lot of questions I may have.

Dustydriver007

Toastyjosh,

I ended up talking with a few gear heads up at my local watering hole and they said mixing wd-40 and tranny fluid in a cheap spray bottle works pretty good. So I gave that a try a few days ago and, let it sit a day. Went back out and sure enough was able to free the rings up, now it turns over nice. I can't hear any scratching or noise while turning it manually, so maybe I go lucky.

Dustydriver007

See the picture below for the late model 1979 Vacuum line diagram.

Dustydriver007

After doing some leg work I was able to find the diagram for the vacuum lines for my truck. I guess there was three different configurations in that year. No wonder it was tough to find. Thought I would post it here to see if it may help someone else!

Gov't Mule

Webers are great for 4x4. If this is the only reason you're not using one on your 4x4, then there is an easy and cheap fix:

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0

I wouldn't run anything but a Weber on my rig. And that whole pressure regulator/electric fuel pump requirement is BS too. I've been running the 32/36 off the stock mechanical pump with no regulator on 2 different trucks for years now with NO issues.