Wagner power sprayer??

tmcorbin · 10-29-2009, 07:39 PM

Ok I know I am probably going to get laughed out of yotatech for this question, but here goes anyway.

What do you all think about buying one of the nicer Wagner power sprayers like the 300v to do things like spray the high temp engine paint, POR 15, under body paint and such.

Painting with a sprayer is one area that I am really lacking in knowledge. I have done a lot of rattle can work and gotten pretty good. And I am learning really quick that rattle cans are pricey these days, and they dont really offer a lot of coverage area for the cost. You can get a quart of high temp stove black paint for the same cost of one rattle can of high temp high temp flat black.

In researching things like POR 15, hammerrite, hammered on, under coatings, and engine paints, they all have directions for brushing on, compressed air spraying, and airless spraying. Seems that with airless spraying(Wagner types) that you dont have to thin any of these types of paints.

I have used cheaper wagners on things like decks, and inside houses, and have always thought wow that was a lot less over spray than what I have seen with a compressed air,or rattle cans.

I can also remember one guy I worked with who shot his mud pit trucks with a wagner and they always looked pretty good

Anyway laugh if you wish, but I thought I would put it out here and see if it is a waist of money or not.

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4Crawler · 11-02-2009, 07:29 AM

Might check with the paint mfg. and see if they have any recommendations. I've used a lot of POR-15 but I find rolling or brushing it on works best for me due to less waste. Spraying it on seems like it would waste more paint and at $150+/gallon, that stuff ain't cheap. Plus cleanup is a bear with that stuff. I gave up trying to clean more than small brushes and instead use disposable rollers and brushes with it. I'll tightly wrap them in plastic and stick used rollers/brushes in the freezer if I want to try and re-use them in a while for another project. You can thin POR-15 with naptha and it does work for cleanup but it is a relatively expensive solvent.

BoostinChick · 11-02-2009, 07:34 AM

The POR-15 may be too thick for a sprayer and would have to be thinned out. Not sure if mixing anything into it would make it less adhesive or change anything chemically in it. I would not use a sprayer for POR-15 application.

As for actual paint jobs like the Rustoleom $50 paint job dealie, it would work well since that paint is thinned anyway. I have seen pictures of many people using the Wagner sprayers and getting great results the only thing is would need to make a nice booth or something so the dust/elements don't tack on when spraying or you will be in for a lot of wet sanding.

Gnarly4X · 11-02-2009, 08:00 AM

Been there done that!! I wouldn't buy a Wagner spray painter if it was last gadget on Earth!! One the biggest pieces of crap I've purchased!

TJMWO,

gNARLS.

dark_fairytales · 11-02-2009, 11:05 AM

screw the wagner!!!!! pressure is the only way to go, I know im a former professional. If budget is an issue just get cheap equipment from harbor fright or look for used on good old craigslist. Pressure is way more versatile, learning to spray coatings and finishes is just practice. you can find a lot of how too's on the net.

tmcorbin · 11-03-2009, 03:30 AM

Yeah POR 15 is great stuff, does seem like brushing and rolling is the best. But at around $300.00 for the marine clean, por 15 and top coat + shipping it is just not in the budget. And I have a lot of stuff between the two trucks that are going to need a coat of something.

I did buy the wagner control spray double duty last night. I figured if it is really crap I will just take it back. And if it decent, but not for the lighter paints, I would keep it for some house painting that I need to do.

I Brought it home and mixed about 8oz of rustoleum hammered with about 4oz of xylol. That brought it down to about 50 seconds dripping through the vis cup. Then I took a scrap piece of sheet metal and started playing. At first the paint was hitting the steel like you were throwing it at it. turned the volume knob down almost all the way and I was able to get a nice tack coat. waited about 10 min and then turned the volume knob up a little and got a nice thicker coat but not full coverage. Waited 30 min until it was just lightly tacky and hit it with another coat. Beter looking than I have been able to get with brushing on a hammered finish like Rustoleum hammer, or hammerite. There is a learning curve though. You can not turn the gun any more than about 60deg down or the paint will run to far up to the head. And you have to get used to the spray not turning on right away. Once the pump starts running you can pretty much paint as usual.

That really covered well with no runs or sags. So I put some card board down under a few tool stands and such that I have built recently. They were clean and primered, but not sanded. I used the rest of rest of the paint I had mixed up on them got a tack coat, and two full coats. Went out this morning and looked close. They really look good. Look as though they could use another coat to really cover them. But the hammered finish is really great.

There was not really a lot of over spray either. I did not wet the floor, or cover a lot of it. And there was not much around the card board on the floor. The fumes out there are another story. But I think I put some of the rags from clean up in the trash and they need to go out side to the can.

I'll probably play with it a little more before doing anything serious on my runner. Thanks for the input.

Later thanks

ILLINOISYOTADAWG · 11-12-2009, 05:23 PM

try going to www.eastwood.com they have a rust encapsulator that kicks A$$ for half of the por 15 and can spray with paint sprayer the whole frame kit with frame black is like 100.

11-02-2009, 07:29 AM	#2 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,828	Might check with the paint mfg. and see if they have any recommendations. I've used a lot of POR-15 but I find rolling or brushing it on works best for me due to less waste. Spraying it on seems like it would waste more paint and at $150+/gallon, that stuff ain't cheap. Plus cleanup is a bear with that stuff. I gave up trying to clean more than small brushes and instead use disposable rollers and brushes with it. I'll tightly wrap them in plastic and stick used rollers/brushes in the freezer if I want to try and re-use them in a while for another project. You can thin POR-15 with naptha and it does work for cleanup but it is a relatively expensive solvent. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club Last edited by 4Crawler; 11-02-2009 at 07:37 AM.

11-02-2009, 07:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
BoostinChick Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Abington, PA Posts: 704	The POR-15 may be too thick for a sprayer and would have to be thinned out. Not sure if mixing anything into it would make it less adhesive or change anything chemically in it. I would not use a sprayer for POR-15 application. As for actual paint jobs like the Rustoleom $50 paint job dealie, it would work well since that paint is thinned anyway. I have seen pictures of many people using the Wagner sprayers and getting great results the only thing is would need to make a nice booth or something so the dust/elements don't tack on when spraying or you will be in for a lot of wet sanding. __________________ 1994 4Runner SR5 3VZE (Auto) \|DynoMax Cat-Back\|-\|EGR Block Off\|-\|31x10.5R15 Treadwright A/Ts\|-\|Infinity Reference and Kicker Components\|-\|OME Steering Stabilizer\|-\|Aisin Manual Hubs\| Last edited by BoostinChick; 11-02-2009 at 07:35 AM.

11-02-2009, 11:05 AM	#5 (permalink)
dark_fairytales Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sacramento, Crawlifonia Posts: 219	screw the wagner!!!!! pressure is the only way to go, I know im a former professional. If budget is an issue just get cheap equipment from harbor fright or look for used on good old craigslist. Pressure is way more versatile, learning to spray coatings and finishes is just practice. you can find a lot of how too's on the net. __________________ 86 longbed/ build date Sep. 85/ build # 1131 3" body lift 6.5" rear shackles 35" tires/ 15x10 beadlocks 5.29 gears/ ARB rear/ lockrite ront Custom 3 gal. onboard AIR Cobra LT 29 CB/ wilson 1000 ant. next mod 3" drive train lift dual t-case and bj spacers sitting on my carpet wait for install

11-03-2009, 03:30 AM	#6 (permalink)
tmcorbin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 149	Yeah POR 15 is great stuff, does seem like brushing and rolling is the best. But at around $300.00 for the marine clean, por 15 and top coat + shipping it is just not in the budget. And I have a lot of stuff between the two trucks that are going to need a coat of something. I did buy the wagner control spray double duty last night. I figured if it is really crap I will just take it back. And if it decent, but not for the lighter paints, I would keep it for some house painting that I need to do. I Brought it home and mixed about 8oz of rustoleum hammered with about 4oz of xylol. That brought it down to about 50 seconds dripping through the vis cup. Then I took a scrap piece of sheet metal and started playing. At first the paint was hitting the steel like you were throwing it at it. turned the volume knob down almost all the way and I was able to get a nice tack coat. waited about 10 min and then turned the volume knob up a little and got a nice thicker coat but not full coverage. Waited 30 min until it was just lightly tacky and hit it with another coat. Beter looking than I have been able to get with brushing on a hammered finish like Rustoleum hammer, or hammerite. There is a learning curve though. You can not turn the gun any more than about 60deg down or the paint will run to far up to the head. And you have to get used to the spray not turning on right away. Once the pump starts running you can pretty much paint as usual. That really covered well with no runs or sags. So I put some card board down under a few tool stands and such that I have built recently. They were clean and primered, but not sanded. I used the rest of rest of the paint I had mixed up on them got a tack coat, and two full coats. Went out this morning and looked close. They really look good. Look as though they could use another coat to really cover them. But the hammered finish is really great. There was not really a lot of over spray either. I did not wet the floor, or cover a lot of it. And there was not much around the card board on the floor. The fumes out there are another story. But I think I put some of the rags from clean up in the trash and they need to go out side to the can. I'll probably play with it a little more before doing anything serious on my runner. Thanks for the input. Later thanks __________________ 85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days.

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11-02-2009, 08:00 AM	#4 (permalink)
Gnarly4X Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Casa Grande, AZ, USA Posts: 336	Been there done that!! I wouldn't buy a Wagner spray painter if it was last gadget on Earth!! One the biggest pieces of crap I've purchased! TJMWO, gNARLS.

11-12-2009, 05:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
ILLINOISYOTADAWG Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SOUTHERN ILL.SE OF ST.LOUIS.MO Posts: 119	try going to www.eastwood.com they have a rust encapsulator that kicks A$$ for half of the por 15 and can spray with paint sprayer the whole frame kit with frame black is like 100.