Stupid cone washers, on solid axels

toyyota · 06-04-2008, 04:32 PM

Is there a special tool, or a reasonable way to remove the split/cone washers on the solid axle hubs and knuckles. I usually end up beating things around with a large hammer, and a very small screwdriver. (not a good match) Maybe Toyota has a special tool, or Snap-On? Has anyone invented one they would like to share?

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bigt · 06-04-2008, 04:40 PM

heat them up owith a torch then hit the side of them or the flange and they will pop like pop corn

Kaleb · 06-04-2008, 05:33 PM

Hit the studs with a brass bar. After a couple hits they'll come right off.

4Crawler · 06-04-2008, 06:25 PM

Some ideas:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eWasherRemoval

And note that I have never run into one technique that will work with every single cone washer. All depends on what it holding it tight. So if you try one technique and get say 4 of the washer off, but 2 won't budge. Try something else on them. I have had some that literally fly off with the slightest tap of a hammer and others that are stuck on the stud and no amount of hammering will make them move.

toyyota · 06-04-2008, 08:30 PM

Thank You, And I think the "anti-sieze" will help.

dirtoyboy · 06-05-2008, 06:24 AM

Anyone ever use a toy hub puller like the ones hendrix motorsports used to sell?

**waskillywabbit** · 06-05-2008, 06:56 AM

I have taken off hundreds of cone washers and it is pretty easy.

Patience and know how. Not everything in life requires brute force.

Nothing sickens me more than to see a set of abused steering arms or manual hubs removed by an obliviot.

Clean the area of mud and debris.
Apply some lubricant like PB Blaster
Use a brass drift and a hammer to TAP, not beat the ever loving crap out of, on the stud and surrounding areas
Use patience and work around
If one wont come off immediately try another
Once one is off the rest loosen up quick

Never any need to get abusive with the hammer

Never any need for heat

Work smart not hard.

jmazoso · 06-05-2008, 08:24 AM

I used my brick hammer when I took mine off. It's got a square, flat head, and is offset from the handle about 3 inches. The head went right over the top of the hubs. I just had to hit the end of the stud a couple of times, just tapping, not hard, and the washers popped loose.

Other than that, Wabbit is right on

85TurboRunner · 01-05-2009, 11:28 PM

I use an air chisel to remove mine. Your probably thinking I'm an idiot but it works great if you do it right.

I just thread a bolt onto the stud part way so its like a dish and protects the threads. Then I use the pointed attachment on my air chisel and give the end of the stud a quick zap and the washer pops right off.

I've done it many many times and have never damaged anything.

scuba · 01-06-2009, 12:04 AM

AHH ZOMBIE THREAD !!!

85TurboRunner · 01-06-2009, 12:58 AM

Anything under a year isn't really a zombie thread.

jeebus · 03-18-2009, 06:57 PM

I just figured this out. I threaded the nuts on the ends of the bolts, used a little muscle, some determination and allot of focus.

See Also:
http://www.barneymc.com/TOY_ROOT/TECHNEEK/conewash.htm
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml

06-04-2008, 04:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
bigt Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario Posts: 3,200	heat them up owith a torch then hit the side of them or the flange and they will pop like pop corn __________________ 1991 HILUX SURF SSR-X turbo diesel right hand drive toyota imported in 2005 from japan, 130,000 km 31 bfg a/t auto current build 1987 LWB suzuki samurai. turning 2 into one.. yota axles welded front to back, yota springs , ifs steering box,, this bad boy will not only eat jeeps but toyotas aswell \m/

06-04-2008, 05:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
Kaleb Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Oregon City, OR Posts: 635	Hit the studs with a brass bar. After a couple hits they'll come right off. __________________ MY BUILD

06-04-2008, 06:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,828	Some ideas: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eWasherRemoval And note that I have never run into one technique that will work with every single cone washer. All depends on what it holding it tight. So if you try one technique and get say 4 of the washer off, but 2 won't budge. Try something else on them. I have had some that literally fly off with the slightest tap of a hammer and others that are stuck on the stud and no amount of hammering will make them move. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club Last edited by 4Crawler; 06-05-2008 at 07:45 AM.

06-05-2008, 06:56 AM	#7 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	I have taken off hundreds of cone washers and it is pretty easy. Patience and know how. Not everything in life requires brute force. Nothing sickens me more than to see a set of abused steering arms or manual hubs removed by an obliviot. Clean the area of mud and debris. Apply some lubricant like PB Blaster Use a brass drift and a hammer to TAP, not beat the ever loving crap out of, on the stud and surrounding areas Use patience and work around If one wont come off immediately try another Once one is off the rest loosen up quick Never any need to get abusive with the hammer Never any need for heat Work smart not hard. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

06-05-2008, 08:24 AM	#8 (permalink)
jmazoso Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: St. Geroge, Utah Posts: 135	I used my brick hammer when I took mine off. It's got a square, flat head, and is offset from the handle about 3 inches. The head went right over the top of the hubs. I just had to hit the end of the stud a couple of times, just tapping, not hard, and the washers popped loose. Other than that, Wabbit is right on __________________ Trail Truck: 84 regular cab 85 22r -- streetRV head, 261C cam, 2.5" flowmaster, lock-right in rear, 1" Wabfab BL, IFS brakes, rock sliders, diff breathers, Amsoil, dual cases, front rock lights, tube bumper, 33x12.50 BFG MTs, cryo'd 5.29s, RUF, 213k miles ---Currently: Misc ---Next: Front bumper Link to build-up: http://www.yotatech.com/f115/jmazoso...uildup-137611/ DD: 01 Tundra V8, 3" flowmaster, FIPK, JBA Headers 133K miles

06-04-2008, 08:30 PM	#5 (permalink)
toyyota Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 6	Thank You, And I think the "anti-sieze" will help.

01-05-2009, 11:28 PM	#9 (permalink)
85TurboRunner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver WA Posts: 1,063	I use an air chisel to remove mine. Your probably thinking I'm an idiot but it works great if you do it right. I just thread a bolt onto the stud part way so its like a dish and protects the threads. Then I use the pointed attachment on my air chisel and give the end of the stud a quick zap and the washer pops right off. I've done it many many times and have never damaged anything. __________________ 1985 4runner 22re 5spd.

01-06-2009, 12:04 AM	#10 (permalink)
scuba Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WHEELIN BIG BEAR Posts: 6,968	AHH ZOMBIE THREAD !!! __________________ Screw you guys I'm goin to TTORA Mods, please be mature and leave my sig alone, thanks. No, I will not be your friend.

01-06-2009, 12:58 AM	#11 (permalink)
85TurboRunner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver WA Posts: 1,063	Anything under a year isn't really a zombie thread. __________________ 1985 4runner 22re 5spd.

03-18-2009, 06:57 PM	#12 (permalink)
jeebus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Detroit Posts: 9	I just figured this out. I threaded the nuts on the ends of the bolts, used a little muscle, some determination and allot of focus. See Also: http://www.barneymc.com/TOY_ROOT/TECHNEEK/conewash.htm http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml Last edited by jeebus; 03-18-2009 at 07:00 PM.

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