Recently I bought this 120 AMP Harbor Freight Flux Core welder for spring swaps, exhaust work, etc: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp...der-97503.html It came with a short power cord and, no plug. I wanted a longer cord since I was going to use the dryer outlet just inside the garage/house door. I bought a 25 foot long 10 AWG cord from Home Depot, with the same white/black/green interior wire scheme. I also bought this Leviton plug: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...&section=10918 The plug came with the following schematic, for the flat/flat/L prong setup for dryer plugs (the top diagram here): So, here is my question..... Do I simply hook up the white and black wires to the 2 flat prongs, and the green wire to the L prong (this is ground, right?)? If so, does it MATTER which of the 2 flat prongs the white/black wires attach to or are they interchangable? I've spent a pretty good deal of time researching this and frankly, I'm just not comfortable with what I'm finding online - it's not conclusive....and I'd rather hear it from those here who have set this up. Thanks in advance folks, Phil

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I think you have the right idea, both the white and the black are hot so they are interchangable, but I want to hear it from someone who is sure.

black and white are not interchangeable. black is "hot", white is "neutral", green is "ground".

i'm looking for a good pic now...

(gray = white)

I have hooked up several welders. The previous post is right in that white is neutral and green is ground and they are two different things. In the case of this welder the original post has the right idea green to the one marked W and the other two wires to the X and Y. I'm assuming that the harbor freight welder you have is 220v and you are wiring it into your main breaker box and not a subpannel.

green wire would go to the L shape prong ... some appliances it would matter where the black and white went ...but on the welder it doesn't ...black and white to the flat prongs

Thanks Ian and 93yota.

I am planning to use the dryer outlet, which is in the room between the garage and house interior. This is a 200V welder, yes.

Earlier I said it was 10 AWG wire....actually, the wires INSIDE the thick wire sleeve are each 10AWG. Here is a photo of what I have:



So, Sounds like Ian has it right with the diagram? Going to wait a day in case anyone else jumps in (no offense Ian!!).

Thanks again guys!

none taken. if it turns out i'm wrong, i've learned something

"Going to wait a day" man you have a whole lot more patience or is it self control then I do. Just while I'm thinking about it. It sounds like this is your first welder. If you are going to be using flux core instead of solid wire with gas you will most likely need to set the machine to DCEN. Basically make sure the gun is hooked to the negative terminal inside your machine. If you run into any snags or welding questions let me know i can talk about melting metal all day.

They are correct in the placement of the wires. White and black are both +, green is -. 220 needs two positive terminals which are at opsite waves. 110 only needs one. All houses have 220 (2 positive lines) running into the breaker box. A 110 (single breaker) sends one + wire to the plug and 220 (double like you are using) sends two + wires (black & white). Green wire in the plug is connected to the ground bar in the breaker box. Hope this helps.

220 uses 2 hot and a ground (a phase(black) and b phase(white)); 110 is only one hot(black), a negative(white), and a ground(green).

Friday Harbor! I've been there. How is the wheeling on the islands?

off topic but how much did you pay for that? i need a welder for all the stuff i do!

check out the millermatic 211 mvp series.

capable of using 115 and 230v. You can choose settings between voltage.

I love mine, welds smooth and is perfect for light farm/auto work!

http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=m-mig

+1 for that thing. i'm using a 130 and flux-core, and it's fairly smooth. i love the thing (heavy as hell, though)
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/...8/CIMG8789.jpg

that's it for my thread-jack

(i need 220 in the garage, now that i think about it)

I hope you are attaching your new input cord inside the welder!!! The plug you bought is the male counter part to the female plug.

It always pays to double check just how the female plug is wired I have seen some dumb things in my day.

Make sure all your connections are good and tight.

Loose connections get hot real fast.

I wish you well with this welder. Sometimes one has toi do what one can

Thanks everyone!!

I've actually had the welder since October (had the Datsun in the garage from Sept-Dec, then did my W56 swap on the truck in January and finished up last week. had the Chevy springs since October too...so I've been exercising some patience you could say

Yes, I do have the 3 wires on the new longer cord hooked up INSIDE the welder - I hooked them up exactly like the previous wires were done, so it should match up perfectly.

I took a class last summer with MIG and LOVED it - can't wait to get started. just need to find some scrap to practive on....

Cheers!

Phil

Oh, and I paid $180 for the welder plus $35 for the 27 month added warranty. It normally sells for $299 but is on sale for $199 a lot it seems. I bought it, then found an ad for $179.99 a week later, took it in and got $20 back

I know it's not a Lincoln or Miller but it fit my budget and is really well reviewed...and I got the warranty.

Thanks again everyone!

Will def consider buying one, I really need a Welder and have for awhile

When I got my plasma from HF I heard something loose in there moving around. I took it apart. Turned out to be a 3/8 inch chunk of glue which was probably harmless but also found a 2 inch long shiner floating around...not harmless. The cheapo plasma's do not have as good reputation as the welders do, but so far, with limited use mine works great.

Just wondering, is there any way to put a gas bottle on that? FC is good for exhaust and body work, but I heard it requires more current than bare wire. You may be pushing it when you get to frame work. I have a Lincoln 110 w/0.023 wire and 80/19/1 gas, it works pretty hard on 1/4 inch, so be careful and watch your Duty Cycle.

There is a tube for gas, if you want to go that route.

I don't care if my welds aren't pretty, for what I'm doing. This welder was recommended by a guy in Georgia (totally spacing on his name here....) who did the spring swap on his 4runner. I think I'll be OK as long as I take my take and watch the duty cycle, etc.

Thanks!

Flux core will give you better penetration, and you wont have to worry about the shield gas blowing away when you are outside.

That said I much more enjoy welding with gas. Cleaner welds and my shop does not fill up with smoke.

It is a shame you are only making it harder on your self trying to practice on scrap. You will spend more time cleaning then welding.

Remember the prep work is 90% the rest is the welding.

Best of luck.

Well, I'd rather learn on something than learn for the first time on my frame I don't mind cleaning a little scrap to learn to weld the real thing better!

No they are not.

Black & red are hot! White is neutral and is grounded at the electrical box & no where else. You hair dryer or lamp do not care but electrical motors sure do!

between white and a red or black is 120VAC. between black & red is 240vac.

between white & green is 0.0 But white is not green.

Follow the diagram, and make double damn sure the feed breaker is open! first thing in the box is your meter to make sure its a dead line. I do not need anymore funerals, I attend to damn many as is.

the color of the wires is not important. the person who hooks them up decides which wires are hot and which is neutral or ground. when hooking up 220v with a black and white conductor most electrcians will wrap the white wire with red or black electrical tape to show it is a hot wire.they have everything under control with the wirering, everything will work fine. when in doubt get out the multi meter.