Seeking for decent double flare tool kit brand for 3/8 metal line......

Jin_Chris · 10-07-2009, 06:43 AM

Working on 3/8 and 5/16 metal hoses, I got this double flare tool set from our famous harborfreight at 15 bones. Initially, looked good deal huh?!

It makes decent single flare but still left a good amount of scratch on the hose wall due to a little sub-par quality clamp... hmmm...
then, I tried double-flaring, well.... it just doesn't work... checking on the adaptor, the angle was just too shallow to have the hose wall pushed inward no matter what... A few trials after, I just threw my towel at a expensive trial fee... ($15). I will check back harborfreight, if they can refund. If not, then, good lesson learned..

Ok! now, I am looking for a decent set of double flare tool which has "GOOD ADAPTOR with good amount of inward angle/slope". Anybody has any good experience with particular double flare tool kit?

Thank you in advance.

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gpcollen1 · 10-07-2009, 10:39 AM

I'd say just get one from any quality manufacturer. Any good auto parts store should have a decent set. AS always, Sears is a great option.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ne+flaring+kit

Jin_Chris · 10-07-2009, 12:57 PM

gp

thanks for your input.
the one you linked seems almost same as what I have right now, which didn't really work for me.

However, as you suggested, there seem bunch of other quality product in sears web page. I shall check local-sears to see if better quality adaptor is available. Issue is, I can not check adaptor until I purchase and open the box........

jeremy9allen · 10-07-2009, 04:39 PM

The new flaring kit that MAC tools carries is junk. I can tell you that much. The piece that goes into the line to do the first part of the flare fits so loose that it flares the line crooked. You can not even use the final flare. Usually after cutting the line, you should have to ream it out a little to fit that piece.

I hate to say it, but you should probably buy snap-on or matco. I am sure there are other decent ones too.

Even though the craftsman one looks like the harbor freight one, I am sure there is a HUGE difference.

FogRunner · 10-07-2009, 10:18 PM

The best tool I've found for doing double flares is the Ridgid set. Grainger carries it http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4A518.

I have done commercial HVAC for 15 years and I've gone through allot of flare tools and this one is the best I've had. Its 100$ but its a lifetime tool and you can rent it to your friends.

The best advice I can give you for doing flares and double flares is preparation. You have to make a good clean cut by slowly applying pressure with each couple of turns of the tube cutter.

Then you have to de-burn it and make sure the end is cut at a true 90 degree angle and that you have restored the tubing to proper shape with the deburing tool.

When you put the tubing in the flare block you will use the double flare as a depth guage by sitting it on the flare block and making the tubing stick up and level with the double flare block.

Once you have crimped the neck with the double flare tool then you lube the cone again and slowly flare again to lay down the inside flap for the double flare.

Before you start to clamp down on it with the flare tool, lube the cone of the flare tool and the tip of the tubing. SLOWLY turn the flare tool,, if you go too fast heat builds up and leads to crimping or cracking. Also every 1/4 to half a turn back the cone out and spray in some oil or lube. Do this till the cone bottoms.

Doing proper flares is 90% preparing the tubing before its even put in the flare block. But if you just go slow and give allot of attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems.

RobD · 10-07-2009, 11:02 PM

Wish I would have read this before I flared my brake lines. While I did okay, there is good info posted there.

Thanks.

Jin_Chris · 10-08-2009, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FogRunner

The best tool I've found for doing double flares is the Ridgid set. Grainger carries it http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4A518.

I have done commercial HVAC for 15 years and I've gone through allot of flare tools and this one is the best I've had. Its 100$ but its a lifetime tool and you can rent it to your friends.

The best advice I can give you for doing flares and double flares is preparation. You have to make a good clean cut by slowly applying pressure with each couple of turns of the tube cutter.

Then you have to de-burn it and make sure the end is cut at a true 90 degree angle and that you have restored the tubing to proper shape with the deburing tool.

When you put the tubing in the flare block you will use the double flare as a depth guage by sitting it on the flare block and making the tubing stick up and level with the double flare block.

Once you have crimped the neck with the double flare tool then you lube the cone again and slowly flare again to lay down the inside flap for the double flare.

Before you start to clamp down on it with the flare tool, lube the cone of the flare tool and the tip of the tubing. SLOWLY turn the flare tool,, if you go too fast heat builds up and leads to crimping or cracking. Also every 1/4 to half a turn back the cone out and spray in some oil or lube. Do this till the cone bottoms.

Doing proper flares is 90% preparing the tubing before its even put in the flare block. But if you just go slow and give allot of attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems.

thank you for this valuable advice.

By the way, I need get you update on the haborfreight flaring kit. That is,... ............... It BROKE!

One of the butterfly knobs that tightening the hose clamp just snapped! Now, it is surely design-flaw or defective.

Either way, I gave up!. Then, I ordered another one from oreilly (Wilmar double flaring tool kit). I hope it can do better job.... will see...

And, the grainger one looks pretty tough and soild. there is local grainger shop right around the corner from my work. If that oreilly one does not work even with your guidline, then, I will check that grainger one... Thanks again!

FogRunner · 10-08-2009, 06:45 AM

Just make sure the cone/press is centered on the pipe in the flare block. Thats what I love about the Ridgid is its always on center of the tubing but allot of the cheaper flare tools can get off center easy and "waller" out the end of the tubing instead of flaring it.

Jin_Chris · 10-09-2009, 06:50 AM

Ok! Update!
It FAILED. No matter how much I prepared the tip of the tube... (deburring, squaring etc etc and carefully applied oil, turn it slowly etc etc...)

Here is my observation.
That oreilly one seems better quality and better built than harborfreight one. However, it still shows lack of "true craftmanship" that can handle larger than 3/16 tubing although it was able to make decent double flare on 3/16 tube. First, the material of clamp can not hold the tube in place tight enough, it keeps slipping. When it slips, you know it won't make any flare instead it will just damage/rip the hose wall....... it even has hole for ½ tube, I wonder what is the use of such hole when it can not even hold 5/16..... not to mention 3/8....
Second, when the clamp is tightened, it sometimes mis-aligned. As a result, no matter how nicely the tube tip was prepared, the cone will be mis-aligned w.r.t the tube tip too. Obviously, with such defect, it creates odd shape flare... not even flare... with lots of scratch in the hose wall. It is still decent set for 3/16 line, (I was able to make decent double flare for 3/16 with this tool) but I need a good set to create double flare for 5/16 and/or 3/8....

Good thing? at least it does not have such bufferfly knob to break....

Will return it and stop by sears and/or grainger....

FogRunner · 10-09-2009, 11:35 AM

Yea that is the biggest problem with cheap flare tools alignment and grip. The Ridgid set covers both problems with its design. The flare block doesn't have a lock screw, instead ridgid put a bolt on the side of the cone/flaring tool that turns into a pocket on the side of the block. This closes the block firmly on the tubing and perfectly aligns the cone over the tubing.

Once you make a flare with it you will kick youself it the butt for not having one from the start. I know when I was starting out in HVAC I thought that no one made perfect flares all the time and it was just more of a luck than skill. After I ran into an old master tech who showed me that ridgid flare block I bough one for the truck and another as a spare.

wyoming9 · 10-18-2009, 05:35 AM

You are trying to double flare new tubing. I have the Matco flare block and have done many 3/16ths 5/16ths and 3/8ths double flares over the last 20 years.

When I first started I tried a few times to put flares on the old brake lines only to have no luck at all . At that point i always used new steel line.

**waskillywabbit** · 10-18-2009, 06:39 AM

If you buy a double flare kit and its under $100...it is going to be junk.
We have a local place that does double flares and custome hard lines...their machine was like $5K.

Jin_Chris · 11-10-2009, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FogRunner

Yea that is the biggest problem with cheap flare tools alignment and grip. The Ridgid set covers both problems with its design. The flare block doesn't have a lock screw, instead ridgid put a bolt on the side of the cone/flaring tool that turns into a pocket on the side of the block. This closes the block firmly on the tubing and perfectly aligns the cone over the tubing.

Once you make a flare with it you will kick youself it the butt for not having one from the start. I know when I was starting out in HVAC I thought that no one made perfect flares all the time and it was just more of a luck than skill. After I ran into an old master tech who showed me that ridgid flare block I bough one for the truck and another as a spare.

Ok! I am back to this flaring tool kit again. (I haven't had a chance yet due to busy work...)

I noticed there are Standard as well as Metric units available.

345 (23337) and 345M (24087)

Now I wonder...

1. Do I have to buy Metric units (24087) because we are going to be working on Yota's.? I will need to cut rusted section of original metal tube and make single/double flares on that original metal tube...... which I believe is metric size....

2. Or Standard one 345DL (23337) is working just fine for Metric size tube and Standard tube????

Any one can help ?

Jin_Chris · 11-10-2009, 01:47 PM

any body?

theAuthority · 11-10-2009, 01:58 PM

Autozone rents the double flaring tool for free .... metric and standard. Made a nice flare for my line attaching to CMC

Jin_Chris · 11-16-2009, 07:00 AM

Thanks for autozone suggestion.

But I am looking to purchase a decent double flaring tool (ridgid) as I already had hard-time with that autozone flaring tool. My issue is if I have to buy metric version to flare the oem tube OR if SAE version of flaring tool can hold the OEM metric tube without slipping.....

10-07-2009, 10:39 AM	#2 (permalink)
gpcollen1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Connecticut (NY State of Mind) Posts: 402	I'd say just get one from any quality manufacturer. Any good auto parts store should have a decent set. AS always, Sears is a great option. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ne+flaring+kit __________________ '99 SR5 Sport - Desert Dune: AirRaid MIT, OEM Air Filter, Toyo 265/75/16 ATs, Deckplate, PP Springs and Bilsteins, Cheapo nerf bars, Injector replacement impending

10-07-2009, 04:39 PM	#4 (permalink)
jeremy9allen Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Wilmington, Il Posts: 131	The new flaring kit that MAC tools carries is junk. I can tell you that much. The piece that goes into the line to do the first part of the flare fits so loose that it flares the line crooked. You can not even use the final flare. Usually after cutting the line, you should have to ream it out a little to fit that piece. I hate to say it, but you should probably buy snap-on or matco. I am sure there are other decent ones too. Even though the craftsman one looks like the harbor freight one, I am sure there is a HUGE difference. __________________ 97 4runner SR5 Locked, Lift, Sliders, 33" Bighorns, 2 TRD stickers 5hp each= 10hp+ 83 Toyota Pickup Shortbed 4x4 Lift, 33" BFG M/T, Lincoln Locker

10-07-2009, 10:18 PM	#5 (permalink)
FogRunner Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Galveston, Texas Posts: 181	The best tool I've found for doing double flares is the Ridgid set. Grainger carries it http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4A518. I have done commercial HVAC for 15 years and I've gone through allot of flare tools and this one is the best I've had. Its 100$ but its a lifetime tool and you can rent it to your friends. The best advice I can give you for doing flares and double flares is preparation. You have to make a good clean cut by slowly applying pressure with each couple of turns of the tube cutter. Then you have to de-burn it and make sure the end is cut at a true 90 degree angle and that you have restored the tubing to proper shape with the deburing tool. When you put the tubing in the flare block you will use the double flare as a depth guage by sitting it on the flare block and making the tubing stick up and level with the double flare block. Once you have crimped the neck with the double flare tool then you lube the cone again and slowly flare again to lay down the inside flap for the double flare. Before you start to clamp down on it with the flare tool, lube the cone of the flare tool and the tip of the tubing. SLOWLY turn the flare tool,, if you go too fast heat builds up and leads to crimping or cracking. Also every 1/4 to half a turn back the cone out and spray in some oil or lube. Do this till the cone bottoms. Doing proper flares is 90% preparing the tubing before its even put in the flare block. But if you just go slow and give allot of attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems. __________________ 2001 4runner SR5 ARB Bull Bumper, Warn 9.5XP, GM CS-144 150 amp alternator, Tundra brakes, OME 883/891s, SS adjustable traction bar, and too many ham radios and antennas

10-07-2009, 11:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,726	Wish I would have read this before I flared my brake lines. While I did okay, there is good info posted there. Thanks. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

10-08-2009, 06:45 AM	#8 (permalink)
FogRunner Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Galveston, Texas Posts: 181	Just make sure the cone/press is centered on the pipe in the flare block. Thats what I love about the Ridgid is its always on center of the tubing but allot of the cheaper flare tools can get off center easy and "waller" out the end of the tubing instead of flaring it. __________________ 2001 4runner SR5 ARB Bull Bumper, Warn 9.5XP, GM CS-144 150 amp alternator, Tundra brakes, OME 883/891s, SS adjustable traction bar, and too many ham radios and antennas

10-07-2009, 12:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jin_Chris Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 89	gp thanks for your input. the one you linked seems almost same as what I have right now, which didn't really work for me. However, as you suggested, there seem bunch of other quality product in sears web page. I shall check local-sears to see if better quality adaptor is available. Issue is, I can not check adaptor until I purchase and open the box........

10-09-2009, 06:50 AM	#9 (permalink)
Jin_Chris Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 89	Ok! Update! It FAILED. No matter how much I prepared the tip of the tube... (deburring, squaring etc etc and carefully applied oil, turn it slowly etc etc...) Here is my observation. That oreilly one seems better quality and better built than harborfreight one. However, it still shows lack of "true craftmanship" that can handle larger than 3/16 tubing although it was able to make decent double flare on 3/16 tube. First, the material of clamp can not hold the tube in place tight enough, it keeps slipping. When it slips, you know it won't make any flare instead it will just damage/rip the hose wall....... it even has hole for ½ tube, I wonder what is the use of such hole when it can not even hold 5/16..... not to mention 3/8.... Second, when the clamp is tightened, it sometimes mis-aligned. As a result, no matter how nicely the tube tip was prepared, the cone will be mis-aligned w.r.t the tube tip too. Obviously, with such defect, it creates odd shape flare... not even flare... with lots of scratch in the hose wall. It is still decent set for 3/16 line, (I was able to make decent double flare for 3/16 with this tool) but I need a good set to create double flare for 5/16 and/or 3/8.... Good thing? at least it does not have such bufferfly knob to break.... Will return it and stop by sears and/or grainger....

10-09-2009, 11:35 AM	#10 (permalink)
FogRunner Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Galveston, Texas Posts: 181	Yea that is the biggest problem with cheap flare tools alignment and grip. The Ridgid set covers both problems with its design. The flare block doesn't have a lock screw, instead ridgid put a bolt on the side of the cone/flaring tool that turns into a pocket on the side of the block. This closes the block firmly on the tubing and perfectly aligns the cone over the tubing. Once you make a flare with it you will kick youself it the butt for not having one from the start. I know when I was starting out in HVAC I thought that no one made perfect flares all the time and it was just more of a luck than skill. After I ran into an old master tech who showed me that ridgid flare block I bough one for the truck and another as a spare. __________________ 2001 4runner SR5 ARB Bull Bumper, Warn 9.5XP, GM CS-144 150 amp alternator, Tundra brakes, OME 883/891s, SS adjustable traction bar, and too many ham radios and antennas

10-18-2009, 05:35 AM	#11 (permalink)
wyoming9 Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods Posts: 265	You are trying to double flare new tubing. I have the Matco flare block and have done many 3/16ths 5/16ths and 3/8ths double flares over the last 20 years. When I first started I tried a few times to put flares on the old brake lines only to have no luck at all . At that point i always used new steel line.

10-18-2009, 06:39 AM	#12 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	If you buy a double flare kit and its under $100...it is going to be junk. We have a local place that does double flares and custome hard lines...their machine was like $5K. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

11-10-2009, 01:47 PM	#14 (permalink)
Jin_Chris Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 89	any body?

11-10-2009, 01:58 PM	#15 (permalink)
theAuthority Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lynnwood, WA Posts: 1,623	Autozone rents the double flaring tool for free .... metric and standard. Made a nice flare for my line attaching to CMC __________________ Proud sponsor of the re-poster thread. Where there is Substance. http://www.yotatech.com/f5/you-re-poster-193103/

11-16-2009, 07:00 AM	#16 (permalink)
Jin_Chris Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 89	Thanks for autozone suggestion. But I am looking to purchase a decent double flaring tool (ridgid) as I already had hard-time with that autozone flaring tool. My issue is if I have to buy metric version to flare the oem tube OR if SAE version of flaring tool can hold the OEM metric tube without slipping.....

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