Sears 2 1/8 socket
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Sears 2 1/8 socket
Hey yota techies,
I need to replace my rotors and I'm going to order the sears 2 1/8 socket but was worried about it not being deep enough. Link is below. Let me know if you have used this socket. Thanks
-Tom
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-1-8...2&blockType=G2
I need to replace my rotors and I'm going to order the sears 2 1/8 socket but was worried about it not being deep enough. Link is below. Let me know if you have used this socket. Thanks
-Tom
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-1-8...2&blockType=G2
#3
The rotor is attached to the hub, so you need to pull the wheel nuts to change the rotors. How much are the Sears sockets? I remember them being quite expensive. I bought the 54mm socket from Trail Gear for just $16!
http://www.trail-gear.com/knuckle-service
http://www.trail-gear.com/knuckle-service
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Its $25 from sears but with shipping the trail gear comes pretty close to the same price and I have to wait for it. So the craftsman is a better option unless it would not be deep enough to reach into the hub. At least I believe it would be the better option. So mostly I just would like to know if the socket in the link would be deep enough.
Last edited by Tomg303; 06-30-2012 at 09:53 PM.
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I did the same thing. The Sears socket was more expensive than a "regular" wheel nut socket, but since I could walk into a Sears and pick it up, the shipping made the difference.
And the Sears socket worked for me. If I just had something else I could use it for!
And the Sears socket worked for me. If I just had something else I could use it for!
#6
I have numerous 2 1/8" or 54mm sockets, from the nice Craftsman one to several pressed and stamped cheaper options. They all work well but the cheaper ones are less bulky as they are 3/8" drive as opposed to the Craftsman being 3/4" drive.
Craftsman stays in the shop, others do too but the cheaper one goes in the trail bag. My local SEARS had the 2 1/8" in stock and I'm pretty sure I got it with a gift card for under $25 on sale.
:wabbit2:
Craftsman stays in the shop, others do too but the cheaper one goes in the trail bag. My local SEARS had the 2 1/8" in stock and I'm pretty sure I got it with a gift card for under $25 on sale.
:wabbit2:
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I have the 2 1/8 craftsman socket and it works fine grab the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter always good to have. The set up is more than trail gear but you can't beat the 100% life time satisfaction guarantee no shipping just walk in and get a new one go with Sears!
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#11
Okay not to jack this thread (my issue is pertinent to topic), but I have got my hubs and rotors off, with the sears socket (same thing they had it in stock). However I have two issues. My front right came off no problem, I had to pry out the outer bearing, I had to pry out the inner bearing seal, and then work the inner bearing out. All good.
When I got to the front left, the nut, washers, and bearing literally slid out into hand. I pulled the assembly right off, and when I started prying the inner seal off, the inner bearing was just moving all over the place, I got the inner seal off, and the inner bearing popped right out. Soooo Now I am wondering was this happening because the outside nuts were both very loose and not snug, leaving play? Or does this just mean the left side bearings are all shot? How tight are those bearing nuts supposed to be when you re-install?
#edit* Resolved last problem.
Another Edit*** Well guys I guess taking a minute to figure things out for yourself is worth it. I took the right side good bearings (worn a little but okay) and put them in the front left hub. I did this to make sure that I had not wallowed out the HUB from the obviously loose bearing nuts and allowed play inside that assembly. I tightened it up, and sure enough the unit spins great and has absolutely no play. Now I bring this up because I started this project because assuming that my brake rotors were obviously warped because I got a shake when I brake. After finding this loose worn bearing, I also remember I had a decent shake in acceleration a while back at 30-40mph acceleration. I thought it was my cheaper steering stabilizer so I upgraded to a good one, and problem fixed. However I think the new stabilizer just masked the the problem of this hub assembly that I have just uncovered. I assume the rotors are slightly out of spec, but I am willing to bet this other issue was a large part. So future YotaTech Newbies such as myself.. Check your rotor bearings for wear, and also note how tight your bearing nuts are up against the spacers if you are getting vibrations on acceleration and braking. Granted there are a ton of other issues that could cause this, but in my research I found 100 responses on other problem areas and no one said hey.. make sure your bearing nuts are tight.. I hope this helps someone save some time and money in the future!
When I got to the front left, the nut, washers, and bearing literally slid out into hand. I pulled the assembly right off, and when I started prying the inner seal off, the inner bearing was just moving all over the place, I got the inner seal off, and the inner bearing popped right out. Soooo Now I am wondering was this happening because the outside nuts were both very loose and not snug, leaving play? Or does this just mean the left side bearings are all shot? How tight are those bearing nuts supposed to be when you re-install?
#edit* Resolved last problem.
Another Edit*** Well guys I guess taking a minute to figure things out for yourself is worth it. I took the right side good bearings (worn a little but okay) and put them in the front left hub. I did this to make sure that I had not wallowed out the HUB from the obviously loose bearing nuts and allowed play inside that assembly. I tightened it up, and sure enough the unit spins great and has absolutely no play. Now I bring this up because I started this project because assuming that my brake rotors were obviously warped because I got a shake when I brake. After finding this loose worn bearing, I also remember I had a decent shake in acceleration a while back at 30-40mph acceleration. I thought it was my cheaper steering stabilizer so I upgraded to a good one, and problem fixed. However I think the new stabilizer just masked the the problem of this hub assembly that I have just uncovered. I assume the rotors are slightly out of spec, but I am willing to bet this other issue was a large part. So future YotaTech Newbies such as myself.. Check your rotor bearings for wear, and also note how tight your bearing nuts are up against the spacers if you are getting vibrations on acceleration and braking. Granted there are a ton of other issues that could cause this, but in my research I found 100 responses on other problem areas and no one said hey.. make sure your bearing nuts are tight.. I hope this helps someone save some time and money in the future!
Last edited by jcm151; 09-18-2012 at 09:18 PM.
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