Drilling Metal: Take 2 - What kind of bit?

garrett1478 · 05-21-2006, 12:58 PM

well i see theres a drilling metal thread a few threads down, but this is a bit different.

to put it shortly, what the HECK kind of drill bits are you guys using to drill steel?

me and chris need to make shackles for his truck. out of 3/8" plate... the holes need to be 9/16".

so we got a $20 bit from a hardware store, advertised to drill metal, 'good for drilling stainless steel'

yeah right. we got 1 hole done and its like the bit turned off. it wouldn't do a thing. we used cutting oil, stepped up in size a few times...

what's the secret brand to use?

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marko3xl3 · 05-21-2006, 01:39 PM

What's it made out of? I hear that Cobalt bits do a real good job.

photoleif · 05-21-2006, 01:47 PM

i always, ALWAYS use titanium nitride bits. they do a bang-up awesome job on wood and metal. they go through aluminum like it's not there. they eat up hardwood readily if you clear 'em often, and going through steel is far far easier than with a traditional high-carbon bit. i got a decent-enough set at harbor freight for $20ish -- 1/16 to 1/2 by sixteenths. kicks butt.

getitdone · 05-21-2006, 02:21 PM

The bit we used was cobalt. It was really sweet for that first hole. Metal chunks were flyin. We seriously stopped ever 10-20 seconds and re oiled the hole with cutting oil. The rpms where pretty low too. When it stopped working, it was all of a sudden. Like in between oilings, it just wouldn't do anything but ring.

This can't be the only way. I will lay down the green for a professional solution. I have to get these holes cut.

What I have used so far:
the generic steel ones - they suck.
titanium - doesn't last and really wasn't that effective
cobalt - the bit from heaven for just one hole!

I am wondering about carbide but I can't keep buying these 20 dollar bits!!!!

Please help.

kyle_22r · 05-21-2006, 03:03 PM

i like the black oxide bits, because you can re-sharpen them easily. titanium works good, too.

my secret: go real slow, and keep it oiled, and put pressure on it. high speed does nothing but round the bit off.

getitdone · 05-21-2006, 03:13 PM

How do you resharpen yours?

**waskillywabbit** · 05-21-2006, 04:41 PM

Drill press.
Generous cutting oil, NEVER let it get dry...contstant flow.
High speed steel bits. Hardware store drill bits are WAY WAY WAY overpriced and usually a POS. Find a local contractor supply store, bolt specialty shop, somewhere that sells high quality bits. I can get a high speed steel 1" bit for under $15.
Drilling a 9/16 hole is too big...start small and work up to the 9/16. Depending on your setup, I would have gone 3/16, 3/8, 9/16 or something like that.

I've got one 3/16" drill bit (titanium tip) that has drilled hundreds of holes, still as sharp as it ever was.

I frequently drill 3/16" thick plate (slider adapters and the like) and I've drilled thousands of holes over the course of the past couple of years...same DeWalt drill bits up to 1/2" by 1/64" (for metal) and a few larger high speed steel bits for select sizes.

Sounds like you just burned up the bit.

getitdone · 05-21-2006, 05:51 PM

Holy moly! I have the opposite success rate that you do.

So this is the recipe:

drill press,
high speed steel, titanuim tiped(purchased from contactor or equivalent)
about 3 steps to get to 9/16,
constant flow of oil

Am I missing anything?

Sounds too good to be true. I will throw it all down tomorrow after work.

**waskillywabbit** · 05-21-2006, 06:00 PM

Constant lubrication just means don't let it get dry...doesn't mean drown it...a little cutting oil goes a LONG way. Make sure you drill press speed (if it has an adjustable speed) is also set for drilling metal...as the setting will be a LOT slower than wood. On mine you move the belts on the pulleys.

You don't even need titanium tipped necessarily, just high speed steel. I have the smaller bits in titanium tips, the ones that I use repeatedly...like 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16.

A little more work saves you a lot of work in the long run...and money on drill bits.

snap-on · 05-21-2006, 06:02 PM

Its unlikely that you hosed a cobalt bit.

It probibly got hot and got a chip "welded" to the cutting edge.

I sharpen mine on my drill doctor and split point anything above 1/4"

getitdone · 05-23-2006, 05:21 PM

Well, I found a sweet shop. They weren't open untill today. I got some killer bits at a fraction of the cost. Thanks Brian!

When I got home and fired em up, I was somewhat dissapointed. They did nearly nothing. After another trip to the shop, we decided that the "scrap" that I got wasn't mild steel. It is something else, like maybe cast iron or something. Anyway, the only results I could get was with a solid carbide bit that was like 2 inches long. He only had just smaller than 9/16 so I have to ream the holes out to finish. I am drilling holes in 3/8 plate and 1/4 plate. Another thing that backs up the not mild steel theory is that the 1/4 cut like butter when done properly(described above) I was so amazed.

So tonights lesson, make sure you know what your getting from the scrap pile before you drill it.

**waskillywabbit** · 05-23-2006, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getitdone

So tonights lesson, make sure you know what your getting from the scrap pile before you drill it.

Sounds like a "commercial" for teen abstinence to me.

SlightlyModified · 05-24-2006, 09:20 AM

I have continous lubrication. Set my press for the slowest speed. Last week, building ladder racks. I drilled 24 1/2" holes in 1/4" steel plate with one cheepo bit, without re-sharpening. I am having really good luck with a set of tin coated bits made by Clarke. Bout them at tractor supply. Alaways use several sizes to Step up.

snap-on · 05-24-2006, 09:36 AM

Have i mentioned comming accross the pice of Titaium sheetmetal back in school at the ME shop?

the local metal supplyer used to donate cut-offs and left over sheet crap like that for us to use on projects.

So some kid goes in the back finds a piece of 18" sq sheet that he thinks is AL cause its light and not rusty.

proceeds to burn up four 1/4" bits and hardly divit the surface. The shop machinest comes over and bout has a fit. "WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING!?!!" were like.. makeing a bracket.... "OUT OF TITAIUM!" he says... were like.. oh that would be why it wont cut

we tossed it back in the pile and dug out some AL.

**waskillywabbit** · 05-24-2006, 09:49 AM

Titanium is just a TAD pricey these days.

Epic Ed · 05-24-2006, 10:40 AM

I'm still trying to drill holes through the A-arm support truss from Schaefer. It is manly work! I punched the first thre 3/8" holes through the beam, the front side of the frame, the back side of the frame, and the other side of the beam. Probably an inch of steel total, and it was serious work even with titanium drill bits. I don't have much experience with kind of things, and then someone suggested I drill a 1/4" pilot hole. I tried that this weekend and still haven't made much progress on the last hole. I wasn't aware that slower is better and considered cutting oil, but there's no way for me to really get a good shot at the drilling location.

I hate to blather on without any solutions, but at least know that you're not the only knuckle-dragger out there unsuccessfully trying to drill through steel.

Ed

Cebby · 05-26-2006, 09:21 PM

knuckle dragger.......

86SR522REEFI · 06-05-2006, 08:39 AM

I just use a titanium step drill bit whenever I have to drill metal. AND LOTS OF OIL

05-21-2006, 01:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
marko3xl3 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,709	What's it made out of? I hear that Cobalt bits do a real good job. __________________ :Marko: Supercharged 98 4Runner SR5 4x4 3.4L 4" Deckplate :: TrueFlow Air Intake System :: Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/ Resonator XM Satellite Radio (Roady 2) :: Autometer Boost Gauge :: Color Keyed Spoiler TOYOTA\|moving forward

05-21-2006, 01:47 PM	#3 (permalink)
photoleif Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: 39.995, 105.119 Posts: 643	i always, ALWAYS use titanium nitride bits. they do a bang-up awesome job on wood and metal. they go through aluminum like it's not there. they eat up hardwood readily if you clear 'em often, and going through steel is far far easier than with a traditional high-carbon bit. i got a decent-enough set at harbor freight for $20ish -- 1/16 to 1/2 by sixteenths. kicks butt. __________________ '95 Xtra cab 3VZE SR5V6 \| 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs \| 4" Superlift \| OME torsion bars \| Total Chaos idler arm and uniball \| Rancho steering stabilizer \| Smittybilt front & rear tubular bumpers \| Sportsman topper \| Aisin hubs \| Dual Optimas \| Extended diff breathers \| Custom center console sometime: rear locker some sometime: retire the IFS My truck page Photography: http://www.aspen-graphics.com

05-21-2006, 02:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
getitdone Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ft. Collins, Co Posts: 1,006	The bit we used was cobalt. It was really sweet for that first hole. Metal chunks were flyin. We seriously stopped ever 10-20 seconds and re oiled the hole with cutting oil. The rpms where pretty low too. When it stopped working, it was all of a sudden. Like in between oilings, it just wouldn't do anything but ring. This can't be the only way. I will lay down the green for a professional solution. I have to get these holes cut. What I have used so far: the generic steel ones - they suck. titanium - doesn't last and really wasn't that effective cobalt - the bit from heaven for just one hole! I am wondering about carbide but I can't keep buying these 20 dollar bits!!!! Please help. __________________ Chris Fischer 3D 85 4Runner SR5 \| 33" BFG M/T on flat black rims \| Chevy springs \| Custom Grab cage with overhead cb mount \| Custom fabbed center console \| Freshly rebuilt axle with IFS hub/caliper swap \| Rock Sliders \| Lots more... In Colorado, Dig.

05-21-2006, 03:03 PM	#5 (permalink)
kyle_22r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Lacey, WA Posts: 3,992	i like the black oxide bits, because you can re-sharpen them easily. titanium works good, too. my secret: go real slow, and keep it oiled, and put pressure on it. high speed does nothing but round the bit off. __________________ 1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4

05-21-2006, 03:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
getitdone Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ft. Collins, Co Posts: 1,006	How do you resharpen yours? __________________ Chris Fischer 3D 85 4Runner SR5 \| 33" BFG M/T on flat black rims \| Chevy springs \| Custom Grab cage with overhead cb mount \| Custom fabbed center console \| Freshly rebuilt axle with IFS hub/caliper swap \| Rock Sliders \| Lots more... In Colorado, Dig.

05-21-2006, 04:41 PM	#7 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	Drill press. Generous cutting oil, NEVER let it get dry...contstant flow. High speed steel bits. Hardware store drill bits are WAY WAY WAY overpriced and usually a POS. Find a local contractor supply store, bolt specialty shop, somewhere that sells high quality bits. I can get a high speed steel 1" bit for under $15. Drilling a 9/16 hole is too big...start small and work up to the 9/16. Depending on your setup, I would have gone 3/16, 3/8, 9/16 or something like that. I've got one 3/16" drill bit (titanium tip) that has drilled hundreds of holes, still as sharp as it ever was. I frequently drill 3/16" thick plate (slider adapters and the like) and I've drilled thousands of holes over the course of the past couple of years...same DeWalt drill bits up to 1/2" by 1/64" (for metal) and a few larger high speed steel bits for select sizes. Sounds like you just burned up the bit. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale Last edited by waskillywabbit; 05-21-2006 at 04:43 PM.

05-21-2006, 05:51 PM	#8 (permalink)
getitdone Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ft. Collins, Co Posts: 1,006	Holy moly! I have the opposite success rate that you do. So this is the recipe: drill press, high speed steel, titanuim tiped(purchased from contactor or equivalent) about 3 steps to get to 9/16, constant flow of oil Am I missing anything? Sounds too good to be true. I will throw it all down tomorrow after work. __________________ Chris Fischer 3D 85 4Runner SR5 \| 33" BFG M/T on flat black rims \| Chevy springs \| Custom Grab cage with overhead cb mount \| Custom fabbed center console \| Freshly rebuilt axle with IFS hub/caliper swap \| Rock Sliders \| Lots more... In Colorado, Dig.

05-21-2006, 06:00 PM	#9 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	Constant lubrication just means don't let it get dry...doesn't mean drown it...a little cutting oil goes a LONG way. Make sure you drill press speed (if it has an adjustable speed) is also set for drilling metal...as the setting will be a LOT slower than wood. On mine you move the belts on the pulleys. You don't even need titanium tipped necessarily, just high speed steel. I have the smaller bits in titanium tips, the ones that I use repeatedly...like 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16. A little more work saves you a lot of work in the long run...and money on drill bits. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

05-21-2006, 06:02 PM	#10 (permalink)
snap-on Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: STL MO Posts: 2,382	Its unlikely that you hosed a cobalt bit. It probibly got hot and got a chip "welded" to the cutting edge. I sharpen mine on my drill doctor and split point anything above 1/4" __________________ 94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers 92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

05-23-2006, 05:21 PM	#11 (permalink)
getitdone Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ft. Collins, Co Posts: 1,006	Well, I found a sweet shop. They weren't open untill today. I got some killer bits at a fraction of the cost. Thanks Brian! When I got home and fired em up, I was somewhat dissapointed. They did nearly nothing. After another trip to the shop, we decided that the "scrap" that I got wasn't mild steel. It is something else, like maybe cast iron or something. Anyway, the only results I could get was with a solid carbide bit that was like 2 inches long. He only had just smaller than 9/16 so I have to ream the holes out to finish. I am drilling holes in 3/8 plate and 1/4 plate. Another thing that backs up the not mild steel theory is that the 1/4 cut like butter when done properly(described above) I was so amazed. So tonights lesson, make sure you know what your getting from the scrap pile before you drill it. __________________ Chris Fischer 3D 85 4Runner SR5 \| 33" BFG M/T on flat black rims \| Chevy springs \| Custom Grab cage with overhead cb mount \| Custom fabbed center console \| Freshly rebuilt axle with IFS hub/caliper swap \| Rock Sliders \| Lots more... In Colorado, Dig.

05-24-2006, 09:20 AM	#13 (permalink)
SlightlyModified Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Hamilton, Oh Posts: 217	I have continous lubrication. Set my press for the slowest speed. Last week, building ladder racks. I drilled 24 1/2" holes in 1/4" steel plate with one cheepo bit, without re-sharpening. I am having really good luck with a set of tin coated bits made by Clarke. Bout them at tractor supply. Alaways use several sizes to Step up. __________________ 81 pickup, 33's, 3" drivetrain lift, 5 speed, see buildup here http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...1#post50392798 94 f250 4x4, 285 BFG a/t's, 7.3 turbo diesel 05' Honda Rincon 4x4 atv, procircuit t4 exhaust, 26" ITP mudlite's. 78' VW Rabbit, Veggie fuel conversion (in the future) 74' VW Beetle, all original (for sale) Alot of Toy parts for sale, PM for info and prices.

05-24-2006, 09:36 AM	#14 (permalink)
snap-on Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: STL MO Posts: 2,382	Have i mentioned comming accross the pice of Titaium sheetmetal back in school at the ME shop? the local metal supplyer used to donate cut-offs and left over sheet crap like that for us to use on projects. So some kid goes in the back finds a piece of 18" sq sheet that he thinks is AL cause its light and not rusty. proceeds to burn up four 1/4" bits and hardly divit the surface. The shop machinest comes over and bout has a fit. "WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING!?!!" were like.. makeing a bracket.... "OUT OF TITAIUM!" he says... were like.. oh that would be why it wont cut we tossed it back in the pile and dug out some AL. __________________ 94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers 92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

05-24-2006, 09:49 AM	#15 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,548	Titanium is just a TAD pricey these days. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

05-24-2006, 10:40 AM	#16 (permalink)
Epic Ed Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 654	I'm still trying to drill holes through the A-arm support truss from Schaefer. It is manly work! I punched the first thre 3/8" holes through the beam, the front side of the frame, the back side of the frame, and the other side of the beam. Probably an inch of steel total, and it was serious work even with titanium drill bits. I don't have much experience with kind of things, and then someone suggested I drill a 1/4" pilot hole. I tried that this weekend and still haven't made much progress on the last hole. I wasn't aware that slower is better and considered cutting oil, but there's no way for me to really get a good shot at the drilling location. I hate to blather on without any solutions, but at least know that you're not the only knuckle-dragger out there unsuccessfully trying to drill through steel. Ed __________________ '95 4Runner\|32x11.5 BFG TA KOs\|Hi-flow Cat\|Dynomax muffler; 2.25" exhaust\| Downey Headers\|4.88 gears \|Detroit EZ locker \|Detroit TruTrack\|BJ spacers\|Downey HD coils\|2" rear spring spacers\|Rancho RS9000X/RS5000s\|WARN hubs\|TJM T15 Last edited by Epic Ed; 05-24-2006 at 11:27 AM.

05-26-2006, 09:21 PM	#17 (permalink)
Cebby Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 11,246	knuckle dragger....... __________________ UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion BUY THIS 2008 CALENDAR Last edited by Cebby; 05-26-2006 at 09:22 PM.

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