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Sorry about the pictures. I still dont have the truck all the way home. As I said above the drive shaft gave out on the way home because of the axel being off square. They just slapped it in there when they attempted to repair the rust. Well I went to pick it up last night with a friends trailer, I could not get any help though, and appearantly it's not a one man job, even if you think you are very strong. I called a local towing co and they are going to pick it up for me right now, $150, wish I had done that in the first place, then last nights nightmare would not have ever happened. Any way I'll get picks tonight. I get the damage shots (not as bad as some ive seen, though the repair was the worst ive seen), body shots, and engine shots. I'll post e'em tomorrow, i promise (I hope).
I saw the Chevy swap FAQ thing, and that definately look's like the way to go with this truck. It's cheap, and it puts the load bearing points on virgin unrusted frame. that will allow the repaired section to do just one job and with alot less tension because of the leverage.
Side note, I thought I would be able to put the truck in 4 wheel drive (front wheel drive in this case) and drive it up on the trailer, but even though the 4x4 light is on and the front drive shaft turns it wont budge in 4 high or 4 low and first gear?? The drivers side wheel lock makes a click when I engage it, but the passy side doesnt, is this keeping the wheels from locking it? I thought with wheel locks if you locked them it was ready, I know on the puch button late models the wheel has to turn to lock in, but5 surely thats not the case here?? I'll lok into this after the frame repair and rear diff repair. Right now straight smoothe rolling chassis is top priority.
On my question above about the front shimmy, Ithink shocks and wheel berings, along with adjustments and alignment are what I'll try first, balance the tires as well. That pretty much covers that problem right??
Thanks again for your interest, and pictures tomorrow, I promise (I hope).
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