you can't easily do a 1 wire installation.
you can make a fairly direct setup to allow the alternator to work. there are 4 connections to the alternator, and the alternator grounds through the housing. there should be 3 connections in one 'plug' and 1 connection through a stud on the alternator.
three connector plug:
-- 1 connection for charging system failure light uses 'differential voltage' to illuminate the light- when the alternator output falls too low or fails, the voltage supplied to the light flows forward through the diode to the alternator and causes the light to illuminate. The diode prevents voltage from the alternator from flowing backwards through the light and lighting it when alternator output is good.
-- 1 connection switched voltage from the ignition switch- energizes the regulator circuit so that when the engine is running the regulator can operate.
-- 1 connection fused from the battery (fused 40A, from constant on voltage)
the stud:
-- alternator output to the battery. (fused 100A or 80A based on alt output, also supplies fused connection above- it has its fuse inline)
All 4 of the connections must be made for the alternator to work.
I recommend going to the battery for the alternator output and not the starter due to resistance losses from the extra length of cable. if your setup has a disconnect on the hot lead to the battery (i've heard of things like this for roll-over or crash protection), then wiring to the starter is acceptable but expect a tenth or so voltage loss and use the largest gauge wire you can, at least 2AWG.
the drawing here shows the basic alternator wiring:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...i/charging.pdf
print it out. it has plug diagrams and fuse ratings listed. keep in mind it is a generic drawing that shows the wires for both the 4 and 6 cyl engines on one drawing. ignore the 6 cyl wiring.