Quote:
Originally Posted by elripster
Guys, I'm afriad this is not correct. Stiff bars equal less flex at all height adjustments.
The preload on the bar is a function of the weight of the truck and the leverage on the bar. If you just install a new torsion bar, the truck does not get heavier so preload remains the same regadelss of how much thread is or is not exposed. The bar just "feels" and resists torque. If you adjust the height upwards, the preload goes DOWN NOT UP. The fact that the a-arm is less parallel with the ground reduces torque on the bar hence why it deflects less and you feel the bump more.
This means, when adjusting in lift, you need a stiffer torsion bar even less that you *might* have needed one prior.
The size of the tire has absolutely nothing to do with making the torsion bar weak. There is no engineering related support for that claim. They do put more load on shocks, but we get off road shocks and the the problem is solved.
There is on reason and one reason only to get a stiffer torsion bar and that is if you want less flex. That's it, period.
I hope this clears things up. The relationship betweel load on a torsion bar and ride height is backwards (higher = less load on t-bar) and so therefore not terribly intuitive.
Frank
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Great post.
However, a thicker torsion bar DOES have one more use, and that has been already stated above: heavy bumpers/winch or bigger/heavier motors. They will keep you from bottoming out on big bumps with the extra weight.
I do not recommend the Downey bars at all. If you want a slightly stiffer bar for the bumper/winch thing, the OME bars are perfect. Only slightly thicker than stock, giving a good ride while stiffening the front end enough to allow the truck not to bottom out while bumping.