Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
If your truck is running stock ride height, you don't have a heavy bumper or bigger motor, you don't need HD T-bars.
Where they come in handy is when you use them to get the 1.5-2" of lift possible with the stock IFS. When you crank the stockers to achieve this, the suspension gets very stiff because they are so preloaded and it'll also lead to their early demise. Also very hard on mounting points and can break them.
When you run a HD t-bar it's not so preloaded to achieve the 1.5-2" of lift so it rides softer, has more travel and is easier on mounting points.
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Very well put. Anytime you preload a spring (crank up t-bars) it looses much of its small bump sensitivity and becomes very harsh. Also, the rebound force increases, this is why they don't like pot holes, they rebound so fast that your shock can't slow the rebound because it is not valved for such rebound forces.
The thicker t-bars give roughlt 1.5" of lift with the same amount of adjuster bolt exposed because the thicker bars don't settle in (sag) as much as the thinner bars. Also, what's nice is that the thicker bars can flex more because they aren't over preloaded, so you achieve much better small bump sensitivity, and the rebound forces aren't as strong allowing a stock damper (shock) to work just fine.
If you run a thicker t-bar, but keep the stock ride height you might feel like the suspension is too soft or bottoms out easily. This is because the thicker t-bars need a certain amount of preload placed on them to function properly. Just like you can overload the t-bar tension for a harsh ride, if you don't add enough preload you get a sloppy, unresponsive feel. I hope this helps.