Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy
I'm posting a little update I got from QSVeilside over on CT. He's done the DIY valve body mod with success. I'll let him give his own details, but bottom line it works and only costs your time and a few washers.
|
I had my tuner work on the VB on Tuesday.
Several notes... but first things first....
A big thanks goes to Speedy - his due diligence just saved us some $$$, and/or prolonged the life of our granny tranny
1. There is a pressure valve on the 2000 4runner VB. However, it was adjusted to the max setting already. There is no "A" indicator as shown on the installation guide.
2. Went with a 5/8" aluminum shim in the 1-2 accmulator. 1/2" shims in the other two.
3. 1-2 shift is still sluggish, but takes signifianctly less time than before. 2-3 and 3-O upshifts are great.
4. Downshifting under WOT snaps you back into the seat. No hesitation. 2-1 shift chirps the tires.
The time between shifts is reduced. This applies to upshifting as well as downshifting.
5. There are some drawbacks to shimming the 3-O accumulator- This is difficult to explain... Going down from O-3 on light throttle but with load, (example is going from flat ground to uphill) is SNAPPY. There is also a delay in going from park to reverse, and reverse to drive... This however improves and returns to normal if repeated. We were warned about these adverse effects in the supraforums post - indicating that if we touch the 3-O accumulator, we risk changing the quality of the shift to reverse, etc.
All in all, the second guinea pig thinks this is a terrific mod. I recommend that you DO NOT TOUCH the 3-O accumulator. Follow Raven's recommendation.
In retrospect, I would follow 03Taco's advice and go with a 7/8" shim in the 1-2 accumulator. The reason it was avoided in this particular case was because the VB HAS a pressure adjustment feature - I assume it is at max - line is horizontal.
Ideal modification: 7/8" shim in the 1-2 accumulator. 5/8" shim in the 2-3 accumulator. No 3-O shim.
Speedy - I know you were concerned about how the shifts feel when driving around normally. I can tell you that shimming the VB to this degree does NOT affect normal driving whatsoever. The shifts are completely docile and in no way can I feel a difference. In regard to your question, the pressure valve was not adjusted. As pictured, there is a "keeper" that holds the position. If it is adjusted beyond that, it may or may not stay in place. I see what you are saying about pushing the valve inward, (not rotating it). Unfortunately, that was not experimented with.
The tuner mentioned that there are many things to hold in place when reinstalling the VB - which can be difficult due to the shims. Make sure you have another set of hands ready.
Pics
Valve Body Removed: Showing Accumulators
BOTH Sides of Valve Body:
Pressure Valve:
