YotaTech Forums - View Single Post - Balljoint Spacer Install/Impressions/Etc.

Flygtenstein · 03-21-2004, 05:56 PM

Apologies if this is redundant for the week I was away.

My rig is a 95 4-Runner, Sway-Away torsion bars, cruiser coils in the rear. The bars were set to 16" rim to fender before the spacers, but that includes a 1" bodylift.

Install:
If you live in the rust belt, hit the studs with a penetrant. Mine were a bear. Get a good punch and a solid hammer. I got to be good friends with my 3 pound baby sledge. Break loose the nuts on opposite studs and whack them out. Then thread 1/4" diameter or slightly thicker bolts through and cinch them down so the BJ does not wander around while beating them out. I flogged them like a 13 year old with his first Playboy. Then I tried to drill them and the last little bit of the bolt cost me 3 bits.

I found a 2x4 under the extension stops gave the right angle to get a grinder in to remove the material. Use a grinder, trying with a Dremel would make me cry. I undid the BJ, dropped the spindle until it was clear of the upper arm and then jockeyed it back so the CV was not over extended. You need a good amount of room to get the grinder in there. More material needs to be removed at the rear part of the arm, or that was my impression.

Impressions:
I set the bars to 16" rim to fender which meant the bars had no exposed thread on the adjusters. Right now I am looking for new shocks because the stock length Bilsteins are spaced down about 1.5" It is aligned within spec and tracks straight. Lots softer than before, but still no real need for a swaybar. With the low profile extension stops shimmed .5" I gained 1" of extension versus the previous set-up.

No pics now, maybe some ride height ones later. Oh well.

In the end, Frank has solved a good problem and it works exactly as it should. The front end can actually travel now, perhaps stock bars would make it softer still.

03-21-2004, 05:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
Flygtenstein Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 4,246	Balljoint Spacer Install/Impressions/Etc. Apologies if this is redundant for the week I was away. My rig is a 95 4-Runner, Sway-Away torsion bars, cruiser coils in the rear. The bars were set to 16" rim to fender before the spacers, but that includes a 1" bodylift. Install: If you live in the rust belt, hit the studs with a penetrant. Mine were a bear. Get a good punch and a solid hammer. I got to be good friends with my 3 pound baby sledge. Break loose the nuts on opposite studs and whack them out. Then thread 1/4" diameter or slightly thicker bolts through and cinch them down so the BJ does not wander around while beating them out. I flogged them like a 13 year old with his first Playboy. Then I tried to drill them and the last little bit of the bolt cost me 3 bits. I found a 2x4 under the extension stops gave the right angle to get a grinder in to remove the material. Use a grinder, trying with a Dremel would make me cry. I undid the BJ, dropped the spindle until it was clear of the upper arm and then jockeyed it back so the CV was not over extended. You need a good amount of room to get the grinder in there. More material needs to be removed at the rear part of the arm, or that was my impression. Impressions: I set the bars to 16" rim to fender which meant the bars had no exposed thread on the adjusters. Right now I am looking for new shocks because the stock length Bilsteins are spaced down about 1.5" It is aligned within spec and tracks straight. Lots softer than before, but still no real need for a swaybar. With the low profile extension stops shimmed .5" I gained 1" of extension versus the previous set-up. No pics now, maybe some ride height ones later. Oh well. In the end, Frank has solved a good problem and it works exactly as it should. The front end can actually travel now, perhaps stock bars would make it softer still.